'12-'13 crossovers

[nato]

Has anyone had a chance to get a look at the '13 changes yet to see if its worth the coin for the changes to go on their 12's. Im interested in the seat change.

 

[jpelaston]

I can't imagine the seat change is all that ground breaking. I'd get the '12 and buy some '13 shrouds after you break the '12s

 

[nato]

I have a '12 but like the 1 bolt access idea to the filter.

 

[twowheels]

I have a '12 but like the 1 bolt access idea to the filter.

Very easy mod to make to the seat, but you still have to contend with the battery box. Will be interesting to see how the subframe is braced now that the battery box isn't providing lateral support.

 

[GasTimppa]

There is U- shaped aluminium piece in battery boxes place.

 

[nato]

Very easy mod to make to the seat, but you still have to contend with the battery box. Will be interesting to see how the subframe is braced now that the battery box isn't providing lateral support.

The seat is already 1 bolt Or do you mean bolt through the top? If so how did you do that one

 

[twowheels]

The seat is already 1 bolt Or do you mean bolt through the top? If so how did you do that one

It starts out as a single bolt but has been known to become a zero-bolt arrangement at inopportune times

This has been covered in another thread, but here's the short form:

Sharpen the tip of a long screw and drive it up through the foam and the seat cover.

Put a large washer onto a button head Phillips screw and thread it into the nut imbedded in the seat. Thread the screw in far enough to compress the foam and drop the screw head below the plane of the seat.

Finish the job with a large washer and lock nut under the fender.

 

[Clay]

This is the photo of the crossbrace between the two subframe pieces/

 

[nato]

It starts out as a single bolt but has been known to become a zero-bolt arrangement at inopportune times

This has been covered in another thread, but here's the short form:

Sharpen the tip of a long screw and drive it up through the foam and the seat cover.

Put a large washer onto a button head Phillips screw and thread it into the nut imbedded in the seat. Thread the screw in far enough to compress the foam and drop the screw head below the plane of the seat.

Finish the job with a large washer and lock nut under the fender.

Thanks mate. I will look into that one then.

 

[STEVEV]

It starts out as a single bolt but has been known to become a zero-bolt arrangement at inopportune times

This has been covered in another thread, but here's the short form:

Sharpen the tip of a long screw and drive it up through the foam and the seat cover.

Put a large washer onto a button head Phillips screw and thread it into the nut imbedded in the seat. Thread the screw in far enough to compress the foam and drop the screw head below the plane of the seat.

Finish the job with a large washer and lock nut under the fender.

now it becomes a 2 tool job to remove the seat. I haven't had issues with mine yet but I've thought about threading a greased bolt into the nut and applying some epoxy with a syringe around the nut. If that doesn't work then I'll be going through the top as well. Too bad a dzus fastener couldn't work. For now it's blue loc-tite and duct tape

 

[GMP]

I did like Steve described, and loctited the bolt into the seat so it will not back out when tightening from underneath and does not need to be held. On the underside I use a large M6 wing nut, for no tools R&R. Its been fine all summer. I thought about potting an M6 nut in the under fender with epoxy putty, and using an M6 thumbscrew from the top like I do on my '07, but a '13 inner fender should be less than $40 and uses an M6 clip nut that can be replaced if neccessary.

One reason the seat comes loose is the flex from lack of support. This really bothered me a lot, it was like sitting on an inflatable pool toy. This is fixed on the '13 from what I can tell just looking at Clay's pics of the parts. It can be done on the '12 with excellent results as well using the OEM '12 seat.