'12 shock removal

[GMP]

The '12 shock comes out the bottom easy!

Remove pipe, rear wheel
Remove right number plate and rear silencer bolt, and pivot silencer up in rear
Remove rear pull rod bolt, lower shock bolt, pivot rocker back
Lift and retain swing arm all the way up wit tie down over rear fender
Remove upper shock bolt
Lower shock and turn so that reservoir is in left forward corner of swing arm
Tilt slightly rearward and draw out through bottom

 

[GMP]

Shock is back in and all together in ten minutes, way easier than my old bike.

 

[nato]

Did you have to change your spring mate? If so what did you go to and whats your weight. I have mine apart to grease all the linkage and swing arm bearings so i think i may go up on the spring as i weigh 205pounds while its apart. What are your thoughts?

 

[GMP]

Funny you should ask, I have .46/5.6 combo on the way. I'm 176 naked, 205 ready to race, no tools, just water pack. (gear adds up!) Top 3 BSSR rider. I never bottom the bike hard, but I do use all the travel in the bigger bumps. Sounds stiffer than I would normally try, but I'm going to trust our buddy Steve here and give it a go. Light preload on both ends and drop the oil in the fork outer a little.

 

[nato]

I will keep an eye on your report for this.

 

[Simmo737]

Glen, your a champ, it's so easy it's amazing, the only good thing about husky now available on gg.

 

[nato]

Got it yet glenn?

 

[Jakobi]

Funny you should ask, I have .46/5.6 combo on the way. I'm 176 naked, 205 ready to race, no tools, just water pack. (gear adds up!) Top 3 BSSR rider. I never bottom the bike hard, but I do use all the travel in the bigger bumps. Sounds stiffer than I would normally try, but I'm going to trust our buddy Steve here and give it a go. Light preload on both ends and drop the oil in the fork outer a little.

I know its not a 2012 model, but thats the same logic I applied with the TTX setup on my 2010. .46 front and 5.4 rear. 3mm preload on the front and 12mm on the rear. Bike sits up in its stroke very nicely. The forks are great, but the shock still needs some valving. Pretty sure its valved right on if you're into MX. Too stiff in the initial part of the stroke for bush work.

 

[GMP]

12mm is too much preload and ruins the ride. If you need that much to make the bike turn you are either to soft on rate or too stiff on the fork. True, your valving is likely wrong, but preload will always aggrevate kick and tracking on the GG rear suspension.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Vindicator]

I'm 200 and I have 5.6 on the shock and 0.46 on the bars. No more than 5mm preload on the shock and 5mm on the front. To be quite honest I never measured the SAG but the rear works quite well for the moment. Had to adjust the rebound 2 or 3 times but now I find it quite good . Amazing traction !

 

[Vindicator]

12mm is too much preload and ruins the ride. If you need that much to make the bike turn you are either to soft on rate or too stiff on the fork. True, your valving is likely wrong, but preload will always aggrevate kick and tracking on the GG rear suspension.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Go with the next spring rate but with less preload, always worked for me

 

[Jakobi]

12mm is too much preload and ruins the ride. If you need that much to make the bike turn you are either to soft on rate or too stiff on the fork. True, your valving is likely wrong, but preload will always aggrevate kick and tracking on the GG rear suspension.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I know you stand by that Glenn but my figures fall into place perfectly. Going stiffer I'd end up with too much static sag for the my target race sag of 105-110mm. At the moment I'm right around the 35mm mark which is ideal. I have tried backing the preload off to 10mm and IMO it didn't feel as good for me. You might be right that the forks could be a half a rate too firm, but the overall back to front balance of the bike is perfect. Off jumps, water bars, in corners the bike is perfect. Turns like a knife but is stable still. My issues are definitely valving related. To make it handle big square edges I do so in exchange for less compliance over small trail trash (roots and rocks). Going back the other way vice versa. I've tried just about everything externally adjustable. Preload, CSC, Comp & Rebound. Spoke with multiple tuners. Definite revalve issue.

But now back on topic, have you got your springs in yet?

 

[GMP]

Springs are on the way. Won't get to test for another week. To be honest, I don't even know what my exact race sag is, and I don't care. It's somewhere around 115mm. I now adjust by feel and steering, and add compression until things get harsh, then back off a couple clicks.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[mikesixdays]

for me in 5 minutes...


Remove rear wheel
Remove rear pull rod bolt, lower shock bolt, pivot rocker back
Lift and retain swing arm all the way up wit tie down over rear fender
Remove upper shock bolt
Lower shock and turn so that reservoir is in left forward corner of swing arm
Tilt slightly rearward and draw out through bottom

 

[rgranger]

Girard turned me on to that last technique , but it will come out the top without pulling the wheel. At least on the '11.

 

[nato]

I think it is a good idea to have the front springs replaced as now I have the rear spring changed it feels soft in the front. Will try adjusting the compression clicker first as I only got a quick chance to try it. Rear feels great apart from a bit of a kick but as I said I have not yet been able to make any changes

 

[nato]

Got them in Glenn?

 

[GMP]

Yes, have time on the combo now in rocky conditions through medium speed trails. Short answer: 5.6 rear is slightly stiff for me, .46 fork is good.

Bike felt unbalanced and not as stable once speeds picked up over a technical crawl pace. It really bothered me so I went back to the truck to make some adjustments. Dropping rear preload helped, but now I'm down to less than 8mm and I have over 45mm static sag for a 110mm race sag number. So, adding it all up I think a 5.4 would be better for me on this bike and match the .46 fork springs. I'm running only 1mm preload on the fork and its nice. PFP full out for slow rocky stuff, in a turn for faster stuff, maybe more for sandy trails and whoops.

 

[nato]

I found the 5.6 fine for myself however i have the feeling the front needs a heavier spring setup as it feels as though it sits a bit high in the backend now.

 

[GMP]

Yeah, if your 205 lbs (no gear) it should be OK. The fork needs to be balanced though. For a 5.6 rear, .48 fork probably. I like the .46s and will run them with the 5.4.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD