13/48 to 13/50

[drn51]

I would like to move from 13/48 to 13/50 with my ec300 11 in order to gain more torque.
Most of my riding is technical and tight.and im using the first gear a lot...
What do you think? I?m afraid that the bike will run away while I need contrability in the tight rocks.
Should I need to add some links to the chain ? or the original can handle the 50?

thanks.

 

[mlyle11]

I cant really comment on the ratio. I run 12/52 (4.33) on an EC250 (2001). It's what I bought it with and I am used to it. It works well in technical stuff, I have seen some people comment not to use anything smaller than a 13 in the front due to chain wear? Take a look at the sproket ratio chart on the JT web site. It can give you some insight on the change relative to final drive ratio.

I can suggest that you should start with new chain, if there is any time at all on the one you currently have. If you were just out testing on a new chain it would be fine, but if you have several rides in, start new. I always do them as sets. Keep it as a spare for worst case days if you wnt.

 

[twowheels]

I would like to move from 13/48 to 13/50 with my ec300 11 in order to gain more torque.
Most of my riding is technical and tight.and im using the first gear a lot...
What do you think? I?m afraid that the bike will run away while I need contrability in the tight rocks.
Should I need to add some links to the chain ? or the original can handle the 50?

thanks.

You'll need to slide the axle forward but you can (and should) run a 50T. You knock a little off of the top end but the gear ratios end up about perfect and you can get by with less shifting.

The 300 with the right jetting is smooth enough to be manageable in any terrain.

 

[Jakobi]

I would like to move from 13/48 to 13/50 with my ec300 11 in order to gain more torque.
Most of my riding is technical and tight.and im using the first gear a lot...
What do you think? I?m afraid that the bike will run away while I need contrability in the tight rocks.
Should I need to add some links to the chain ? or the original can handle the 50?

thanks.

I went from 13/48 to 13/50 on my 2010 EC300R. Definately an improvement all over. You'd think it would make the bike angrier, but I found it actually helps as 2nd gear gains enough that you can work it at walking pace with a little clutch, where stock 1st felt too short and 2nd too tall for the technical trails. This way you end up with a real mountain goat in 1st as well. But.. For me the real benefit is that when riding up in 3rd and 4th gear the bike is much easier to keep on the pipe between changes where 13/48 would kind of drop off the pipe if you changed too earlier which meant you'd have to deal with the power change instead of just keeping it singing.

You do lose a little in top end speed but mine will sit on 80kms just off the pipe in 6th gear, and pull up over 120kms without too much effort. Never held it pinned to see what it tops out on. I'd imagine probably around 130km/h. More than enough for what I do.

 

[davedunaway]

Totally agree. Went to 13-50 gearing on my 06-300 and it was a much smoother bike. I ride in very tight technical terrain and 2nd gear is perfect for all but the tightest going. It also eliminates that somewhat awkward 1st to 2nd shift when hammering out of slow corners.

 

[drn51]

Thanks! I will do so

mlyle11, the bike is pretty new with only 40hr so i didnt want to replace the chain.

this is the reason that i asked if 50T can handle the original chain.

 

[singletracker]

The stock chain worked when I went to 13/50 from 13/48, but after riding it a few times I decided to go with a longer chain for handling purposes.

 

[drn51]

The stock chain worked when I went to 13/50 from 13/48, but after riding it a few times I decided to go with a longer chain for handling purposes.

Handling purposes?

I didnt undertstand why you decide to change

 

[Jakobi]

By going a larger rear sprocket with the stock chain you have to bring the adjusters in closer to the swing arm pivot which effectively changes the length of the wheel base, which does have an effect on handling. Flucks me if I can tell the difference though. I'd imagine less stability and more wheely prone with a shorter wheel base. Quicker turning. Probably could be adjusted for by changing the fork position in the triples too.

 

[drn51]

ok Jakobi

thanks for clarification

 

[GMP]

Add a link with a 50t + or you may end up eating a mud guard if you run a new tall tire, especially a trials tire. Been there done that. You will not notice the slight wheelbase change unless you are real fast, sensitive, and in tune with detail changes like this.

 

[singletracker]

Jakobi pretty well nailed it. I could have made some other adjustments and probably been fine with the handling, but I already had a new chain that I had bought for a different bike, but never used. BTW, I just bought a new mud guard because my bike did in fact eat mine while running the stock chain.

 

[Jakobi]

Yeah my mud guard has been nibbled at over time. I just used the stock gearing until it was flogged out. Out of all of it the light weight rear sprocket was probably the most cained. The front was a bit hooked, and the chain wasn't too bad but I did them all and jumped up 2 teeth at the same time.

 

[singletracker]

Mine did more than nibble. It broke it in half.

 

[gasser]

50 tooth rear with a trials tire will eat up that plastic guard that protects the rear shock.