1998 - ec250 engine stripped

[savage sausage]

Ok so I've stripped down the engine and have found some interesting if not alarming things also
Firstly the stator/ignition is absolutely filthy mud grime water induction etc (see pics ) should I junk this and just buy another?? What benefits will a new ignition make?
Secondly there are some nasty gouges/grooves where the crankshaft has been flopping about, is this a concern or will a bit of emery cloth sort it out?

The engine castings are shoddy to say the least, you would never see this on a Japanese engine I'll bet.
Is it worth tiding them up with a carbide burr?
I also see like a pointy cast near where the kicker goes is it designed to be like this or again just $h1t castings.

It honestly looks like this is the first time the engine has been apart since 98 some of the bearings are ok and some fcuked I'm gonna replace them all anyway

What's the deal with these two bolts one in the bottom of the crankcase and another seemingly pointless one

One let thing I noticed this indentation is this bad or can it be smoothed out

I really don't want to be spending any more than I have really say on a set of crank cases

Some handy hints and tips will be thoroughly welcomed

Sorry stupid iPhone won't let me upload multiple pics

Thanks

 

[savage sausage]

more pictures

here are some more pictures

 

[Zman]

Ignition - Clean it, oil it, use it and replace it if it fails.

Crank case wear - Yes Sand it with emery cloth to get rid of sharp edges, do not remove much material as it will reduce performance.

Yes clean up the case casting flash / left overs with carbide burr or sanding drum, you can also smooth the surface of the cylinder ports while you are at it.

You can get the bearings from a bearing shop. If you put the cases in the oven and warm them to 150F they bearing should either fall out or will be easy to drive out with a bearing tool. Alternatively I have used my BBQ or a propane torch with a IR heat gun to make sure I did not get too hot. 150F to 170F seemed to work well.

Those two bolts are probably drains for the ignition and crank case.

The cases do not need to look pretty to be functional.

Good luck!

 

[Neil E.]

Third picture in the first set of photos is cause for concern. It looks like a bearing has been spinning in the case. If there is not enough press to hold the bearing race, put a wipe of blue loctite on it during assembly. That would be enough to prevent it from spinning in the future.

 

[motopsycho87]

I'd personally used a stronger locking compound than standard loctite. Check the specifications and make sure it is fuel/oil resistant.

 

[savage sausage]

cheers for the replies lads....

Zman i think i'll give a tickle with some emery

Neil E.. i think it must be from the big end bearing (guessing) cos the main bearings where held in tight.

psycho what did you use

 

[motopsycho87]

Sorry, my phone's bloody autocorrect added a D to make it look like I had, I have done with loctite 290 on wheel bearings. But on the datasheet it claims only 50% strength with engine oil.

Try loctite 641 - http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802627649537

It claims 90 and 95% strength after 1000hrs with petrol and oil.

You could also see if you could get the cases machined to take the next size up bearing?

 

[savage sausage]

Third picture in the first set of photos is cause for concern. It looks like a bearing has been spinning in the case. If there is not enough press to hold the bearing race, put a wipe of blue loctite on it during assembly. That would be enough to prevent it from spinning in the future.

no thats the bottom of the crankcase housing