You need to remove the swingarm. When it is removed, loosen the two lower bolts and the assembly can rotate backward, making it possible to remove the bolt for the main link.
The linkage is R&R as an assembly. You remove the swingarm as you should service that as well. Remove the chain roller as it will interfere with the left side link plate bolt. Loosen everything on the bike and remove. Service/regrease on the bench. Assemble hand tight as shown. Install on the bike by TEMPORARILY using the swingarm pivot shaft as guide without the swingarm. Tighten plate bolts and main rocker pivot. Reinstall chain roller. Remove pivot shaft and reinstall swingarm. Tighten lower shock mount and pull rod bolts.
No grease fittings. Use fresh orings and Moly Paste or Castrol Pyroplex Blue grease. Serviced properly these linkages are the most waterproof in the business. I go a full year between services and have original bearings in an '07.
Lay it on its side and support the frame on the floor in this area around the swingarm boss. This way you can transfer more energy to the pivot bolt without moving or damaging the frame. Impact hammer, bigger sledge, etc. Don't mushroom the end. Move it a little each way hit it with the penetrating oil in betweeen. Whatever it takes. Big mess.
Removed wheel from swingarm. Loosened motor mounts. Supported with wood. Used hf orange deadblow with drift. Realized that sledge is 20 minutes south of me and its late. Ill keep at it.
The shaft is seized in the cases, right? The arm rotates freely.
70455. In addition to all the tips and tricks you've been given start doing heat cycles with boiling water. Boil the kettle up and pour it all over the back of the engine case/swingarm and then return to sledge hammer method. Once its cooled repeat again.
I went through it with a yamaha recently and it took a few patient days working at it but it came good in the end.
Thank you everyone for your support. Block of wood underneath the opposite side. Nut threads destroyed by using socket to pound shaft. Placed metric bolt with grade 8 washers inside shaft hole and wailed with baby sledge. Shaft moved! Used long iron workers punch to drive through. Good thing I removed because the bearings were bad on driver side. It looks like my K x 250 linkage bearings will fit the swing arm bearing application. Being a packrat paid off.
Thats how I do it. Use a bolt with a few nuts fed on and it runs inside the axle and gives the bolt head to hit on so you don't mushroom the axle itself. The last one I had to hit that hard it took the threads right off the bolt. Good work getting it out!
Do yourself a favor and replace all the seals in the linkage and swing arm with 21mm x 3.5mm orings. These are used in all the '05+ bikes, seal better, and are cheaper especially in bulk.
Yes, 21mm ID x 3.5mm cross section. Get the shock lower bearing orings as well, 15mm ID x 3.5mm. By a bag of each and your set for life. A complete linkage service now with all new parts will go a full season and should never allow water and dirt into the bearings.
This is a far better option that the small narrow seals. My '12 has some seals that I just changed over to orings.
The two brass/bronze washers that live between the suspension links and the linkage are missing. I have two, installed those at the swingarm end of the dogbones, yet need the others for the linkage end.