HurricaneHarry
New member
Does anyone know what carb settings these had from the factory?
Cheers Paul
Cheers Paul
2008 EC300 standard jetting
- Thread starter HurricaneHarry
- Start date
HurricaneHarry
New member
Standard jetting
The tuner I'm taking the bike to wants to know how they are jetted from the factory as a baseline. Does anyone know? I realise they're very badly jetted and I'm sure mine has been experimented with, clearly to no avail...it runs like a drunk turtle.
The tuner I'm taking the bike to wants to know how they are jetted from the factory as a baseline. Does anyone know? I realise they're very badly jetted and I'm sure mine has been experimented with, clearly to no avail...it runs like a drunk turtle.
Jim Cook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Do you have the AS1 (screw on top) or AS2 (screws/bolts holding the to on) Carburetor?
(The AS2 jets leaner than the AS1.)
.
(F5)
Gold Level Site Supporter
You will spend a chunk of money if he doesn't have experience with GG trying stuff out. That takes time and money.
Read the threads, get the needle suggested, then if you dont feel like playing, give him the bike. The right needle is the key. Std N1FE for virtually all GGs, and they dont work well.
Old bikes you should really inspect the needle jet for wear. Ideally off the bike looking for any ovality with torch and magnifier.
You dont say where you are, but beware the black pipes. Some contain cat converters. Nickle plated ones will be fine.
Read the threads, get the needle suggested, then if you dont feel like playing, give him the bike. The right needle is the key. Std N1FE for virtually all GGs, and they dont work well.
Old bikes you should really inspect the needle jet for wear. Ideally off the bike looking for any ovality with torch and magnifier.
You dont say where you are, but beware the black pipes. Some contain cat converters. Nickle plated ones will be fine.
HurricaneHarry
New member
Thanks. Australia - nickel pipe. AS1 carb. He'll have a range of jets, needles, etc. He's very sceptical about forum advice but I'll give him a few suggestions based on what I've read about needles, needle jets.
Gasser Nate
New member
I had the same bike basically, I settled on a 42/45 pilot N3EG needle #2 clip with a 175/178 main. Idled forever clean crisp and never fouled a plug.
Difference on forum advice versus here is we are all/were owners and have done all the research for you. Do not even bother starting with stock jetting. It is hideous.
Difference on forum advice versus here is we are all/were owners and have done all the research for you. Do not even bother starting with stock jetting. It is hideous.
(F5)
Gold Level Site Supporter
Depends on your ego . Or his.
I've built lots of 2 stroke small capacity roadrace bikes with several NZ titles.
But there is a wealth of info here from one make experts who have had to learn one bike. Saved me a heap of time. Start with the needle recommended above and experiment with pilots and mains suggested. That's what I was running in my 07. Until I put the later carb on as mine got damaged and would scratch the needle.
Careful of tuning in the field to make sure to keep the top of the tank clean when taking the top off. My mistake. Dirtbikes made a fool of me. Hence the damage. Easy to avoid if you are watching out for it.
I've built lots of 2 stroke small capacity roadrace bikes with several NZ titles.
But there is a wealth of info here from one make experts who have had to learn one bike. Saved me a heap of time. Start with the needle recommended above and experiment with pilots and mains suggested. That's what I was running in my 07. Until I put the later carb on as mine got damaged and would scratch the needle.
Careful of tuning in the field to make sure to keep the top of the tank clean when taking the top off. My mistake. Dirtbikes made a fool of me. Hence the damage. Easy to avoid if you are watching out for it.
Jim Cook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Stock was:
38 pilot
#7 slide
N1ED
178 main jet
We had a dealership from 1997 through 2006, and struggled with getting the engines to run smoothly everywhere in the rev ranges with the stock jetting. The bikes ran like a bat out of hell on top, but they were set up for the expert level racers who always ran their bikes WFO.
The settings in the previous post (quoted above) is almost exactly what I ran on my 2006 DE300 (EC300) before I tried any of the Yamaha or Suzuki needles. The N1EG was the only N1E* series jet needle that worked well like that for us.
Here are my settings on the AS1 up to 4000' elevation.
N1EG with the clip in the second groove from the top,
#7 slide,
42 pilot
178 main jet.
I got a bit of spooge, but it idled well until it got very hot (after an hour working trails in 95F + temperatures).
If I was going to be racing in cool weather ( <60F) on a course with long straights, I would go up to a 180 or larger main jet.
I have since tried the optional Yamaha YZ250 and Suzuki RM250 jet needles (NEDJ, NECW, and a few more), and found them to be more easily adjusted for idling, power characteristics, and personalization of power delivery as the power transitions from low end to mid-range.
HurricaneHarry
New member
Thanks for all this advice. I don't want the power too aggressive - is there a needle which will better suit more bottom/mid linear power?
Jim Cook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
From riders who's jetting knowledge I respect, the NECW jet needle has
exactly what you are asking for.
.
Stay away from the n1ef needle (stock) or anything similar. Don't even go there.
Start with yamaha yz250 or suzuki rm250 jetting as baseline - as jim cook noted above.
Be sure to go richer on pilot (42-48) and reset the idle (turn it down to get slide back down to where it should be...) 178-ish on main - depending on your fuel - varies a little from country to country... I would start with a 45 pilot and a 178 main.
Getting the proper needle and proper setting of idle and air screw is key to have good idle - good bottom and smooth transition through mid without having a "burble then hit".
Note that this carb can have air screw "out" at 2 to 2 1/2 turns.
Your air screw should have some effect when you turn it - if it doesn't the idle is turned up too high or needle too rich and it is "pulling over" - e.g. fuel from pilot circuit is being bypassed and most air fuel coming through slide and needle jet.
This is typically the condition that it comes in stock - too rich needle - drives person to lean out pilot to 38 and then crank in idle until it is coil bound... Doesn't start easily - doesn't idle, doesn't transition from bottom to mid well. Poor fuel mileage.... And the jetting is too dependent on atmospheric conditions - e.g. you might think you have it dialed in one day and then you go out another day and it isn't quite right again.... So if you see someone say the stock jetting with the n1ef needle works for them - it might work - but that person is threading the needle...
If a person has trouble getting things working with one of the "recommended needles", it is typically because they have not richened up their pilot or they haven't reset their idle and air screws properly. The needle jet can also become worn and "oval-ed" - making the bike difficult to "dial in".
jeff
Start with yamaha yz250 or suzuki rm250 jetting as baseline - as jim cook noted above.
Be sure to go richer on pilot (42-48) and reset the idle (turn it down to get slide back down to where it should be...) 178-ish on main - depending on your fuel - varies a little from country to country... I would start with a 45 pilot and a 178 main.
Getting the proper needle and proper setting of idle and air screw is key to have good idle - good bottom and smooth transition through mid without having a "burble then hit".
Note that this carb can have air screw "out" at 2 to 2 1/2 turns.
Your air screw should have some effect when you turn it - if it doesn't the idle is turned up too high or needle too rich and it is "pulling over" - e.g. fuel from pilot circuit is being bypassed and most air fuel coming through slide and needle jet.
This is typically the condition that it comes in stock - too rich needle - drives person to lean out pilot to 38 and then crank in idle until it is coil bound... Doesn't start easily - doesn't idle, doesn't transition from bottom to mid well. Poor fuel mileage.... And the jetting is too dependent on atmospheric conditions - e.g. you might think you have it dialed in one day and then you go out another day and it isn't quite right again.... So if you see someone say the stock jetting with the n1ef needle works for them - it might work - but that person is threading the needle...
If a person has trouble getting things working with one of the "recommended needles", it is typically because they have not richened up their pilot or they haven't reset their idle and air screws properly. The needle jet can also become worn and "oval-ed" - making the bike difficult to "dial in".
jeff
HurricaneHarry
New member
Cheers. I've found it has #7 slide, N1EF needle. I've read that this is the standard needle, and also that standard was N1ED?
I can't get the carb out...is there a trick to this?
If the needle jet is worn oval what are my options?
I can't get the carb out...is there a trick to this?
If the needle jet is worn oval what are my options?
HurricaneHarry
New member
Got it out with some effort...
175 mj 42 pilot - which was blocked. So there's one answer. Ordered the suggested needle NECW so I'll see. The needle jet looks ok I think - bit hard to tell.
175 mj 42 pilot - which was blocked. So there's one answer. Ordered the suggested needle NECW so I'll see. The needle jet looks ok I think - bit hard to tell.
(F5)
Gold Level Site Supporter
You ideally need a viewer, magnifier of some sort. Hold it up to the light and look through it. Any ovality is bad. Depends on how much it has been used. Vibration and the needle in there does most.
You can buy replacement tower that has jet in there, but not easy to find. Other options too but see where you are at. Blocked pilot is common for bikes that have sat for a while. Try turn tap off on your way back to truck to drain floatbowl so it isn't sitting in gas for xxx weeks if likely.
Cut the needle in 1/2 -so you aren't tempted to use it.
I've often undone the subframe mounts to lever out of the way for carb removal, replacement. Just easier than struggling with rubber and trying to get it back in especially on the shock side.
Blow through every hole, ideally with compressed air. Once main clean is done you can get to pilot and main by removing slide (clean tank above remember) and rotating away from you to get bowl off. Remove sprocket guard. Jiggle floatbowl to remove. Dont lose pin for float. Never over grass.
Ok, lay something on the grass.
You can buy replacement tower that has jet in there, but not easy to find. Other options too but see where you are at. Blocked pilot is common for bikes that have sat for a while. Try turn tap off on your way back to truck to drain floatbowl so it isn't sitting in gas for xxx weeks if likely.
Cut the needle in 1/2 -so you aren't tempted to use it.
I've often undone the subframe mounts to lever out of the way for carb removal, replacement. Just easier than struggling with rubber and trying to get it back in especially on the shock side.
Blow through every hole, ideally with compressed air. Once main clean is done you can get to pilot and main by removing slide (clean tank above remember) and rotating away from you to get bowl off. Remove sprocket guard. Jiggle floatbowl to remove. Dont lose pin for float. Never over grass.
Ok, lay something on the grass.
Gasser Nate
New member
The Suzuki NEDW needle will suit your needs. N3EG is a little more aggressive
