2010 300. Leaking from case already?

[husley]

Bike has been in the garage for weeks, just noticed that it has a slow leak on the bottom of the case near the tranny drain bolt.

The oil had weeped all along the bottom of the case so I am not exactly sure where it is coming from. I cleaned it and waiting for it to start back up so I can pin-point the location of the leak

I am new to GG, are there any normal suspect spots that GG's leak from on the case?

I have not verified yet but it is possible that I have some junk under the brass washer and the drain plug did not seat properly.

It had leaked about 10 cc over two weeks. Only 14 hours on bike

Running a skidplate, the case has not been hit with anything

Thanks

J

 

[twowheels]

Check for junk on the copper sealing surface, or pop the crush washer out and install a new one. Leaks are not normal.

 

[coopernicus]

The new 2010 sitting at a dealer near me had the same problem...The copper washer was deformed and needed to be replaced as it was not sealing properly. He has some oil on the shop floor but did not notice until it was pointed out by a customer!

Eric

 

[HuskyDude]

Check for junk on the copper sealing surface, or pop the crush washer out and install a new one. Leaks are not normal.

This has caught me on my Husky too. I guess it pays to clean the washer before reusing it.

 

[GMP]

Leaks are not common, in fact the case thickness and gasket area is thicker than most bikes. Unless you see the gasket out of place between the case halves I bet its the plug. I've been using o-rings in place of the washers for years. Less torque on the plug needed (you will not strip it) and better seal.

 

[Brian]

Leaks are not common, in fact the case thickness and gasket area is thicker than most bikes. Unless you see the gasket out of place between the case halves I bet its the plug. I've been using o-rings in place of the washers for years. Less torque on the plug needed (you will not strip it) and better seal.

Got a Mcmaster part number?

 

[GMP]

I've been using these lately on the fill and drain:

ANSI # 906 in PTFE (teflon)

part # 9559K313, pack of 50 is $11.98

They crush down for a good seal and can be reused a few times. I've used simple BunaN 12 x 1mm but you have to be more careful about how hard you tighten the plug. There is nowhere for the oring to flow to when compressed so it tends to extrude out. The real answer is a plug with an o-ring groove machined in.

 

[husley]

update........

I got it all cleaned up and let it sit for a couple hours.

The drip (if i can even call it that) is incredibly slow but appears to be coming from around the plug.

I thought I had it all cleaned-up nicely before I reinstalled but it would appear not.

I was becoming a little concerned because a few hours after I purchased my Beta (ktm rfs motor) it had a case/leak issue due to a lot of bad gaskets.

It appears that this one is going to be a easier fix: put stuff back together correctly/no dirt!

thanks to all

J

 

[gasser]

Leaks are not common. I bet it's the drain plug. I've been using o-rings in place of the washers for years. Less torque on the plug needed (you will not strip it) and better seal.

+1 on the drain o-ring.