2010 air bleeders
- Thread starter gg3
- Start date
bergerhag
Silver Level Site Supporter
I'll be happy with something like these, so at least it wont require tools to bleed the forks.
http://www.shear-loc.com/m3thumbscrew.htm
http://www.shear-loc.com/m3thumbscrew.htm
HuskyDude
Super Moderator
I had Les from LTR install Air Bleeders when he did my forks. GoFasters has them. Even if you are careful it won't take long to lose the little screw that comes on the Sachs. Very little effort went into that design.
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swazi_matt
Active member
yes what is it with the m3 screws?
Have been thinking about getting the fork caps drilled and tapped to the same dimension as the jap bike bleeders, will be easier to use a flat screwdriver and then i can also use my air-cells on the forks to soften up the small bumps
Have been thinking about getting the fork caps drilled and tapped to the same dimension as the jap bike bleeders, will be easier to use a flat screwdriver and then i can also use my air-cells on the forks to soften up the small bumps
gg3
Silver Level Site Supporter
Yeah,I was going to wait for a fork service & drill/tap them then.But on the weekend the forks were getting really hard about mid stroke so I bled them.There was so much air pressure it blew it out as I pulled the allen key away,luckily the guy watching caught it,I would never have found it!It's a real fiddley pain in the arse.I was surprised how much harder it had become,it was a new bike after that.It is my only complaint about the bike so far.
gg3
Silver Level Site Supporter
I'll be happy with something like these, so at least it wont require tools to bleed the forks.
http://www.shear-loc.com/m3thumbscrew.htm
Hey,this is not a bad idea in the interim.M3x6mm with a 9.6mm knurled head,& colours!
nambo-trev
New member
funny thread i started the same thread on thumpertalk to find some bleeders that will fit my TTX ohlins forks and i just got tore apart for asking
nothing but"dont use them they do more harm than good"or "they let dirt and water and debris in and im an idiot for wanting them" lol all i could say was i didnt ask for your opinion on why there bad ive been using them for years all i wanted to know was product info. soooooo does anyone know if they make lower profile bleeders because the ohlins bleed screw is on a funny angle?
nothing but"dont use them they do more harm than good"or "they let dirt and water and debris in and im an idiot for wanting them" lol all i could say was i didnt ask for your opinion on why there bad ive been using them for years all i wanted to know was product info. soooooo does anyone know if they make lower profile bleeders because the ohlins bleed screw is on a funny angle?
HuskyDude
Super Moderator
swazi_matt
Active member
moto9
Silver Level Site Supporter
The forks need to come off the bike, loosen the cap, slide the outer tube downward,
below the cap is the cartridge/rod and main spring.
There is a lock nut below the cap, slip a wrench between the coils of the main spring, place a wrench on the cap and break free the lock nut and spin the cap off.
As a habit I always back the clickers all the out (counter clock wise) before working on a shock or fork, just note the #of clicks.
twowheels
New member
You can make up a fancy tool like the one RaceTech sells (large diameter washer essentially with a mini screwdriver blade sticking out of one side) or bend up a piece of steel into a tiny hockey-stick shape to get to the clickers
bchatt
Bronze Level Site Supporter
I have ground (into a flat) the ends of a 4mm allen key, and keep it velcroed to the handle bars, for instant access. Fits under the bars for rebound clickers and is also sufficient to adjust compression clickers and shock clickers. It will even undo the seat screw ( I keep a modest tool set, plug etc in the airbox).
swazi_matt
Active member
thanks guys. I also have my bars set forward, but since i am not a suspension expert and all the articles i have read by suspension experts seemed to indicate that unless you know what you are doing it is best to leave the rebound in the standard position.
That said, it would be nice if th ebike manual actually said what the standard setting was!
That said, it would be nice if th ebike manual actually said what the standard setting was!
bchatt
Bronze Level Site Supporter
I would say don't be scared to fiddle with the clickers - you can't do any harm. Count the clicks where they are now and make a note so you can return to that setting if you get "lost". Then just wind (for example) the rebound clickers in most of the way a go for a ride. Think about how the bike feels. Then wind them most of the way out and go for a ride over the same bit of track - can you feel a difference? Sure you can! Learning to feel the difference in how the bike "feels" is fun, and you will be amazed at how much difference it makes. Give it a try!
