2010 sachs forks
- Thread starter bowtech
- Start date
300XCRider
New member
Not sure about 2010, but I am loving my 2009 SACHS stuff.
twowheels
New member
The 2010 Sachs forks take a little while to break in, but they are not bad stock. Unfortunately there are no reliable sources for 7mm ID shims, so you can try to roll your own or wait for someone (like me 
) to make a kit that uses something different to do much tuning. As it is, just ride!
) to make a kit that uses something different to do much tuning. As it is, just ride!pedroec300
New member
I have just bought the 2010 ec450 and find the forks are definately
better than my 07 300 zokes stock.
They are brand new so will take a bit to break in but i am
not hating them,they are fairly firm in the mid stroke but soak up the
bigger hits quite well.
I am going to keep riding as is and go from there, maybe play with
spring rates and oil height,i am loving this bike!
better than my 07 300 zokes stock.
They are brand new so will take a bit to break in but i am
not hating them,they are fairly firm in the mid stroke but soak up the
bigger hits quite well.
I am going to keep riding as is and go from there, maybe play with
spring rates and oil height,i am loving this bike!
HuskyDude
Super Moderator
I don't think anyone makes a fork bleeder for the Sachs fork yet. I think it is a 3mm thread.
Pretty small.
GoFasters has some under Fork Bleeders or Motion Pro's Bleeder Kit but you'll have to drill & tape the hole yourself.
I had Les from LT Racer do mine up when he re-valved my forks.
Pretty small.GoFasters has some under Fork Bleeders or Motion Pro's Bleeder Kit but you'll have to drill & tape the hole yourself.
I had Les from LT Racer do mine up when he re-valved my forks.
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bleeders
You can get a standard kit from motion pro to drill and tap bleeders for bikes that do not have them available or if you want a lower fit. Or you can purchase a replace ment bleeder set without the kit for far less money and any good machinist can get MP's specs and do it themselves with out the MP kit. I will go with option B....
Cheers,
Rick
PS thats what it looks like Les has done as they appear to be MP bleeders. (all MP bleeders are the same they just have adapters for different fork caps that the bleeders screw into.)
You can get a standard kit from motion pro to drill and tap bleeders for bikes that do not have them available or if you want a lower fit. Or you can purchase a replace ment bleeder set without the kit for far less money and any good machinist can get MP's specs and do it themselves with out the MP kit. I will go with option B....
Cheers,
Rick
PS thats what it looks like Les has done as they appear to be MP bleeders. (all MP bleeders are the same they just have adapters for different fork caps that the bleeders screw into.)
bergerhag
Silver Level Site Supporter
I have had a hard time with my 2010 sachs fortk. Very harsch ride on rocks and roots. I somehow diagonsed the problem to be too soft springs. original 4.2 was replaced with 4.5, but that was not enough.
yesterday I mounted the 5.0 N/mm K-tech kayaba springs (k-tech part no 435-460-50) and went for a spin.
Now that's a plush fork. Very happy. Now i just need to get my rear end sorted, Been turning the clickers in all directions, need to reset and redo.
yesterday I mounted the 5.0 N/mm K-tech kayaba springs (k-tech part no 435-460-50) and went for a spin.
Now that's a plush fork. Very happy. Now i just need to get my rear end sorted, Been turning the clickers in all directions, need to reset and redo.
twowheels
New member
I wouldn't have agreed with you until yesterday's root-fest, but now I think my Sachs forks are officially harsh.
What model are you riding (EC or Race)? Your weight? Riding level? How did you decide it was spring rate?
bergerhag
Silver Level Site Supporter
I have the EC model. I'm sportin 107 kg without gear. riding level, say intermediate amateur. In the amatuer races here in sweden i usually end up in the middle of the results. I ride for fun and exercise.
The conclusion of spring rate beeing wrong was based on that it felt almost ok going uphill and absolutely terrible in steeper downhills. also the the race-tech spring rate calculator for all the bikes I tried using it for recommended ~4.9 N/mm.
So front are now 5.0 N/mm, rear 60 N/mm. Funny thing was, that with the front springs too soft I could hardly feel what was happening in the rear. Now I can feel a change with two clicks on rebound.
With the fornt springs at 4.5 N/mm, my hands were so badly hammered it took out all the fun in riding.
twowheels
New member
Berger: You might want to look at your mid-valve to lessen hand thrashing. I pulled a .2 x25 out of the mid-valve and replaced it with a .1x24. Increased float by 0.1 and reduced the overall rate of the mid-valve stack.
Trial by fire today - much better action on yet another gnarly rooted- and rutted course ... until I ran over my tongue I usually don't do suspension adjustments in the middle of a race but I stopped to back off the rear HS compression 1/4 turn as well. I wasn't alone either ... at one point or another I think half the racers were in for adjustments.
Trial by fire today - much better action on yet another gnarly rooted- and rutted course ... until I ran over my tongue
I usually don't do suspension adjustments in the middle of a race but I stopped to back off the rear HS compression 1/4 turn as well. I wasn't alone either ... at one point or another I think half the racers were in for adjustments.
widebear
Banned
I'd venture to guess that even the .5 kg per mm springs are to light for you. My calculations put you at 235 without gear, more like 260 geared up with water. I'd suggest you try running 10 mm preload on those springs. All things being equal I run .52's on my Beta, yes the bike is heavier but I'm in around 200 lb's no gear. With the lighter .48 stockers I had to stop riding the bike , it was deflecting that badly.
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