2013 started smoking bulbs...

[rgranger]

I grabbed the connector while the bike was running and I got bit pretty good. what the heck could this be? is there supposed to be a regulator inline that has gone TU, that would be my luck? I tried 2 bulbs and same thing, bright as hell, flicker, gone!

 

[desertgasser300]

My older Gasser did the same thing until I realized the PO removed the regulator. Picked up the adjustable reg from trail tech. Nice unit.

 

[rgranger]

I noticed as I was headed out this morning that the 4pin plug going to the rectifier was unplugged. No to me one would thing that would fail to a safe mode and not send 50,000 Volts though the system and possibly the rider But I guess I just do things differently than spaniards
if anyone wants to test this, I will buy them a new bulb - LOL.

 

[GMP]

If I needed lights for more than tech inspection I'd just do a DC conversion and be done with it. Then you can add any reasonable accessory(GPS, etc.) you want without problems, and run LEDs.

 

[rgranger]

If I needed lights for more than tech inspection I'd just do a DC conversion and be done with it. Then you can add any reasonable accessory(GPS, etc.) you want without problems, and run LEDs.

I guess I was just surprised that they didn't run the power form the stator though the regulator first and then out to the rest of the bike... I know that they wired my ignition and kill buttons up backwards, I wonder if this was done also and should be looped though the rectifier first?

 

[rgranger]

Ok, found my manual I think online... it does look like they run current from the stator unregulated to everywhere first, then the regulator/rectifier is last in the loop. I am not very good at reading these things, shoot that was 8th grade, killed a lot of brain cells since then. ok, going to have to edit this to include a link, can't upload all the pages that I have tried to print and upload are too big. brb.
Rob
I think mine is page #37, third one? it looks like by unplugging the plug from the rectifier, it allows unfilter power? is that right?

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B25s5qMVYM6FOURJbndEWWQtMzA/edit?usp=sharing

 

[Neil E.]

Keep in mind that voltage regulation is different than voltage rectification. Regulation is done anywhere in the system as it's only clipping maximum voltage. A simple method is to use a zener diode since it converts the extra energy into heat. It has a specific threshold voltage thus preventing your bulbs from burning out. Just replace your stock regulator (assuming the wiring is correct).

A voltage rectifier has definite input and output wiring. It changes AC to DC and thus does more work. It also performs voltage regulation. With rectification you have to be concerned about grounding (floating with full wave vs non-floating with half-wave).

 

[rgranger]

LOL - didn't understand a word! Which do we have? 2013 EC 300 Race?

 

[Neil E.]

Page 36 and 37 are diagrams for estart bikes with a voltage rectifier. These are different from the non-estart bike that has only a voltage regulator as shown on page 35. What bike do you have?

 

[rgranger]

I have an e-start 300 with a XXXX. I know the headlight runs fully off the stator, not the battery.
the stickers say EC300 Race but I have an ignition key - this is all so confusing. LOL

 

[Neil E.]

Page 36 has the big multifunction switch, which I guess doesn't come on the US bikes. That would say you should use page 37.

Look at the G (generator). I kinda shows a split winding with power out on the yellow and black. The black is probably actually a white wire, but they had to make it black on the page because of the white page background.

Yellow = reduced voltage output for headlight (needs regulation)
Black (actually white) = higher voltage output for battery charging (needs rectification)

Note that you have a combined rectifier/regulator. The half-wave rectification is probably OK or your battery would either fry up or go dead. It's very likely a diode in the regulator section has failed and you are now getting peak voltage to the headlight bulb.

Have you put a multimeter on the battery (stopped/idling/rev'd) to check voltage? Have you done the same with the headlight wire?

 

[rgranger]

No, once I put the 4pin plug back into the rectifier it started working ok. I just thought that it was odd to design a system to kill people in the fault mode
My bike came with some of the wires reversed behind the light for the ignition kill and the kill button. Trying to figure where the wires went, I had disconnected the plug, i must not have got it back in and it fell back out during a ride. I think that everything is OK, now, but if that plug comes out - DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING!!! while it is running, trust me.

 

[GMP]

The small AC "regulator" is not like a DC regulator with an in/out. It's just a "clipper" ckt, a pair of Zener diodes that limit the peak voltage of the waveform by shorting excess to ground. That's why it can be "T"Ed in anywhere. Very crude and cheap, barely adequate. If I owned an estart bike I'd go the extra mile and go full DC with floating AC ground.


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[rgranger]

I will have to ask my buddy if he can wire one up for me, it is above my ability.

 

[GMP]

That's what gets me about those bikes, they have both AC and DC systems, a real mess. Trail Tech has a rectifier/regulator and an instruction PDF. Same as a KTM. I'm sure the stock rectifier/ regulator is just big enough for charging the battery.


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[rgranger]

I am going to send them an email!
Thanks!

 

[mcnut]

Trail Tech has excellent customer service.