300 De Stator Output?
- Thread starter Boomhauer
- Start date
aftermarket lighting coils
A company called "Electrosport" makes and sells aftermarket electrical stuff. I just bought a 60w light coil/stator for $150. They sell there stuff under other names too. Mine was through Moose, but price was same. It will fit under the any flywheel,including the 10 oz.
A company called "Electrosport" makes and sells aftermarket electrical stuff. I just bought a 60w light coil/stator for $150. They sell there stuff under other names too. Mine was through Moose, but price was same. It will fit under the any flywheel,including the 10 oz.
slocalspode
Member
2002 XC300 wiring question.
From the above post. To use the TrailTech Rectifier/Regulator
is it "required" to Float the ground to get the battery to charge?
I posted this over on Talkingsmack. Figure I'd (Copy/Paste) over here.
---------------------------------------------------
Hi, have a GasGas 02XC300 wiring question someone here might be able to
help out with.
I am trying to install a battery and be able to charge it when the bike
is runing. I purchased a TrailTech Rectifier/Regulator and a Yuasa
1.2Ah battery, (NP1.2-12). Constructed a Carbon Fiber battery box.
See attached pictures, (if they show as my attachments.)
According to BajaDesigns there are a couple ways that the stator
could be wired. The stator could be grounded to the frame internally.
Or Could be grounded to the frame externally after passing through
the Rectifier. See .pdf file on BajaDesigns web site.
http://www.bajadesigns.com/2005 Web...ctifierRegulator Instructions - Universal.pdf
The .pdf file shows two yellow wires exiting the stator for the externally
grounded type that gets grounded after the Rectifier. The internally
Grounded stator only shows One Yellow wire exiting the stator.
This is how my GasGas looks. Just one Yellow wire to power the lighting
system. (See Pict).
There are Four wires to power the CDI. Red, Green, Red/White and
Black/Red.
I'll attach a pict of the Stator.
If this is an internally grounded stator. Should I follow the diagram that
shows one Yellow wire from the Rectifier connected to the single Yellow
wire from the stator and the other Yellow wire from the Rectifier being
grounded to the frame?
Then the Red wire from the Rectifier connected to the (+) side of the
battery and the Black wire from the Rectifier connected to the (-) side
of the battery? Then all negative connections from the lights need to
be grounded to the Battery (-) lead?
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thank you, Jeff Wallace, So. Cal.
---------------------------------------
hmmm?? I uploaded the .jpg files and BajaDesigns URL, but don't
see them attached to this post.... I'll try again if they don't come
through.
---------------------
What I am trying to achieve is to be able to use my lights for
limited night time use. (Ie: getting back to camp if the ride time
estimate was a little off.) I don't plan to run HID lights or upgrade
the stock lighting at this time. I just don't like the problem of
loosing your headlight on a steep snotty down hill if the motor
stalls.
Thanks,
From the above post. To use the TrailTech Rectifier/Regulator
is it "required" to Float the ground to get the battery to charge?
I posted this over on Talkingsmack. Figure I'd (Copy/Paste) over here.
---------------------------------------------------
Hi, have a GasGas 02XC300 wiring question someone here might be able to
help out with.
I am trying to install a battery and be able to charge it when the bike
is runing. I purchased a TrailTech Rectifier/Regulator and a Yuasa
1.2Ah battery, (NP1.2-12). Constructed a Carbon Fiber battery box.
See attached pictures, (if they show as my attachments.)
According to BajaDesigns there are a couple ways that the stator
could be wired. The stator could be grounded to the frame internally.
Or Could be grounded to the frame externally after passing through
the Rectifier. See .pdf file on BajaDesigns web site.
http://www.bajadesigns.com/2005 Web...ctifierRegulator Instructions - Universal.pdf
The .pdf file shows two yellow wires exiting the stator for the externally
grounded type that gets grounded after the Rectifier. The internally
Grounded stator only shows One Yellow wire exiting the stator.
This is how my GasGas looks. Just one Yellow wire to power the lighting
system. (See Pict).
There are Four wires to power the CDI. Red, Green, Red/White and
Black/Red.
I'll attach a pict of the Stator.
If this is an internally grounded stator. Should I follow the diagram that
shows one Yellow wire from the Rectifier connected to the single Yellow
wire from the stator and the other Yellow wire from the Rectifier being
grounded to the frame?
Then the Red wire from the Rectifier connected to the (+) side of the
battery and the Black wire from the Rectifier connected to the (-) side
of the battery? Then all negative connections from the lights need to
be grounded to the Battery (-) lead?
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thank you, Jeff Wallace, So. Cal.
---------------------------------------
hmmm?? I uploaded the .jpg files and BajaDesigns URL, but don't
see them attached to this post.... I'll try again if they don't come
through.
---------------------
What I am trying to achieve is to be able to use my lights for
limited night time use. (Ie: getting back to camp if the ride time
estimate was a little off.) I don't plan to run HID lights or upgrade
the stock lighting at this time. I just don't like the problem of
loosing your headlight on a steep snotty down hill if the motor
stalls.
Thanks,
Attachments
GMP
Active member
Thats the 2K-2 ignition that has only one AC output (yellow). The larger 2K-3 has two(yellow and white). Both are referenced to chassis ground in the stator. You need to float the AC ground in the stator and then ground the neg side of the rectifier (DC ground). I would look at the instructiuons on the Trailtech site for a KTM 250/300 as the ignition is basically the same electrically.
slocalspode
Member
Thank you. I have reviewed as much web information as I can
find on floating the ground and installing a Rectifier. Unless I am
missing something. Nowhere does it state that you must float
the ground to use the TrailTech (or any) Rectifier/Regulator.
I would rather not have to remove and rewind my stator if I do
not have to. I am looking for a way to get the battery to charge
using the existing system. I just don't want to get it wrong and
fry something expensive.....like my GasGas.
If I read the information on the BajaDesigs web site correctly.
It appears that it is possible using the technique I described
in my first message. I guess I need to do some more studying.
Thanks, Jeff
find on floating the ground and installing a Rectifier. Unless I am
missing something. Nowhere does it state that you must float
the ground to use the TrailTech (or any) Rectifier/Regulator.
I would rather not have to remove and rewind my stator if I do
not have to. I am looking for a way to get the battery to charge
using the existing system. I just don't want to get it wrong and
fry something expensive.....like my GasGas.
If I read the information on the BajaDesigs web site correctly.
It appears that it is possible using the technique I described
in my first message. I guess I need to do some more studying.
Thanks, Jeff
slocalspode,
If the only dc item you want to run is a headlight then the bottom diagram (grounded ac) will work fine.
If you wanted dc to power blinkers, horn, instrument lights (ie, the EC wiring harness) then it would be less trouble to float the ac as shown in the upper diagram.
If the only dc item you want to run is a headlight then the bottom diagram (grounded ac) will work fine.
If you wanted dc to power blinkers, horn, instrument lights (ie, the EC wiring harness) then it would be less trouble to float the ac as shown in the upper diagram.
slocalspode
Member
Well. I was hoping to run the entire EC wiring harness @ 12VDC and
be able to charge the battery when I did not need the lights. I have
the EC wiring harness I got from WideBear installed. Everything works,
Head Lights, signals, horn and brake lights. They dim at low RPM and
I was trying to be able to keep a steady voltage by adding a battery.
I don't (plan) on going HID anytime soon. I just wanted to keep it
simple (insert cheep) and easy.
I got an e-mail back from Support @ TrialTech. Kind of hard to read
between the lines, but, I think he said you could *not* use a TrailTech
or BajaDesigns style Rectifier/Regulator on a bike unless it has had the
"Floating Ground" modification performed to it.
Being an electrical nimrod has it's disadvantages sometimes. :^(
I know I am not the first person in the world to try what I want to
do. I just need to find the knowledge base. Or give up and spend
the $$$ on a modified stator...flywheel puller....flywheel holding tool...etc..
Thanks everyone. Jeff
be able to charge the battery when I did not need the lights. I have
the EC wiring harness I got from WideBear installed. Everything works,
Head Lights, signals, horn and brake lights. They dim at low RPM and
I was trying to be able to keep a steady voltage by adding a battery.
I don't (plan) on going HID anytime soon. I just wanted to keep it
simple (insert cheep) and easy.
I got an e-mail back from Support @ TrialTech. Kind of hard to read
between the lines, but, I think he said you could *not* use a TrailTech
or BajaDesigns style Rectifier/Regulator on a bike unless it has had the
"Floating Ground" modification performed to it.
Being an electrical nimrod has it's disadvantages sometimes. :^(
I know I am not the first person in the world to try what I want to
do. I just need to find the knowledge base. Or give up and spend
the $$$ on a modified stator...flywheel puller....flywheel holding tool...etc..
Thanks everyone. Jeff
GMP
Active member
In a full wave rectifier circuit, you can do one of two things: Float the AC side or float the DC side. They CAN NOT share a common ground. If I remember there was a detailed procedure on modifying the stator to float the AC common. It does not require rewinding, just a simple mod with a soldering iron. The AC side is then isolated from engine/chassis gouund, and the +12V DC ground may now be connected there.
slocalspode
Member
Thank you, This is the kind of concise answer I was looking for.
Not what I wanted to hear, but, a positive answer one way or
another.
I have reviewed and copied the instructions for floating the
ground from several web sites. So I have accurate documention
on "How to do it". Most of the articals show how to re-wind the
stator's poles as well as which wires to disconnect. Im sure I
can figure out how to de-solder and splice a new wire into the
system. Time to break out the tools and get to work.
Thank you for your help.
Jeff Wallace
Not what I wanted to hear, but, a positive answer one way or
another.
I have reviewed and copied the instructions for floating the
ground from several web sites. So I have accurate documention
on "How to do it". Most of the articals show how to re-wind the
stator's poles as well as which wires to disconnect. Im sure I
can figure out how to de-solder and splice a new wire into the
system. Time to break out the tools and get to work.
Thank you for your help.
Jeff Wallace
