36mm on 300
- Thread starter iancp5
- Start date
widebear
Banned
I've not done it not on a 300 but a 250.You will lose top end which 300's dont have a lot of anyhow.The bike will have very outstanding throttle response, the negs will be lots of wheel spin and a loss of tractabillity and you tire out much quicker as the bike will be much more of a handfull to control. nice if you want to do a 70 foot table top with a 5 foot take off.
iancp5
New member
Hmm that's not what I want at all. The 300 can get more responsive!? Was hoping it would extend the usable revs even lower. I find the power or torque very linear once it starts, but it starts with a jump. There's nothing, then at 3000 I get 20 bhp (made up no.s) and it ramps smoothly thereafter. This is absolutely fine most of the time, except in the slipperiest of grass MX tests where it makes it hard to exit flat turns without the back end trying to overtake. What I'd like, is to ease the initial switch on of power. I notice KTM use 36mm and not 38mm on their enduro 2Ts so wondered what effect it would have. In very general terms softer bikes have smaller carbs but of course that goes hand in hand with many other differences.
widebear
Banned
sounds like you need to dial in your jetting, on a good running 300 you should be able to putt around all day in 3'rd at 10 mph with little or no drama and that includes NO plug fouling, if you look at the w,e.c. guys on those boulder fields you can bet that they are riding a gear taller and using the clutch to keep from lighting up the rear, you can only do that on a perfectly jetted bike. when i know that i'm going to be riding in a super muddy,slippery course i will richen the needle one clip and air screw half a turn this overfuelling helps when torquing the motor in a higher gear and helps to keep from lighting up the rear to easy'le, as an added point and I.M.O, a good running gasser should not need more than a one tooth rear gearing change .either way, i run a 47 on my 300 and i'm in 2'nd or 3'rd in the super tight, trust me you wont be fighting the bike either
Loosenut
New member
On my '05 EC300, I have a head modified by R&B. I went from not having enough low end (compared to 2000 EC300) to having too much in certain conditions as described by the original poster. However, it's easy to tame the beast.
#1. I am dropping 1 tooth on the rear sprocket first. This will smooth the hit a little and make more use of the low end available for longer.
#2. I plan on trying a different needle. The LTR needle was great prior to the head work, but I now need smoother power after the head.
#3. My final thing to try will be the G2 throttle. I can't see this helping way too much with my riding style, but we shall see.
Mike Baxter
#1. I am dropping 1 tooth on the rear sprocket first. This will smooth the hit a little and make more use of the low end available for longer.
#2. I plan on trying a different needle. The LTR needle was great prior to the head work, but I now need smoother power after the head.
#3. My final thing to try will be the G2 throttle. I can't see this helping way too much with my riding style, but we shall see.
Mike Baxter
skid jackson
New member
try a cck needle!!!
iancp5
New member
What's the full part no.? Is that a Keihin needle?
Yes, that is a Keihin needle. CCK is the Keihin needle designation.
It is an excellent needle for the GG300.
I am a big fan of industrial strength low end throttle response. As such, I absolutely love the RB Designs head mod. It rocks!
Keep in mind that RB Designs can tune the head mod to your riding preferences if you want less low end.
