Adjusting 2012 300 Hit

[GLantern]

I was wondering if anyone with a 2012 300 has found a way to adjust the hit when coming on the pipe? My 300 is very on/off, I have it jetted per the recommendations from JD jetting and it runs great. Just would like to smooth the hit a bit, any ideas?


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[TheLetterJ]

The first thing that comes to mind is a different needle taper... we'll wait for the experts to recommend which one.

The next thing that comes to mind is more (right?) preload on the power valve governor, which will really only delay the hit, not necessarily soften it.

 

[gasser]

I agree that a different needle is the single best way to modify your power. The Suzuki needles (NEDx series) work best for me. Very strong but smooth and controllable right off idle, very little hit in the midrange, and wind out good on top.

 

[celler]

I got my 2011 pretty smooth by making sure all the play was out of the power valve and used a NEDW needle. So far I have not been able to make my 2005 as smooth as the 2011 doing all the same things and I have tried different amounts of power valve preload. I was thinking about ordering a power valve spring from an 11 to see if that would help.

I would also recommend a RB head mod to get the squish right. This will add power to the low end and beginning mid which helps to take the flat spot out before the power valve opens.

 

[GLantern]

I'll see about the Suzuki needle first then. I really didn't realize how hard the hit was until I rode a friends KTM. They got on mine and looked at me like I was nuts.

I don't need anymore power down low, I think I'll keep the squish as is, this bike is a monster.

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[adriano.ro]

Reeds spacer is also good for smooth transition. But the needle taper is the best/ cheap way to put down the monster

 

[motopsycho87]

Could always fit a slow action throttle?

 

[95jersey]

NEDW with a #8 slide. An amazing combination.

 

[Zman]

You can add the reed block spacer if you do not have one.

 

[shang]

My Jd jetted '13 was an animal. The hit was a ton of fun but too hard to manage. Getting the squish cut will make the bike a lot easier to jet. Mine runs cleaner all over. With the jetting below it is very smooth and linear. Extremely predictable.

N3CJ needle 2nd position summer, 3rd position winter
170 main
40 Pilot

 

[GLantern]

Thanks for the feedback Shang, what's your elevation?

After the needle I'll check other things one by one.


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[shang]

Thanks for the feedback Shang, what's your elevation?

After the needle I'll check other things one by one.


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I'm at about 4500' and up. I did ride sea level last summer with 175 main and it would ping a tiny bit at idle after some hard runs. So maybe a 42 pilot would have been right on.

 

[Zman]

Another option after you adjust jetting is to delay the opening of the power valve.

 

[GLantern]

How do you do that zman? I didn't think the PV was adjustable on this bike.


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[Zman]

you need to disassemble the PV actuator and increase the preload on the spring (add a washer) so it delays the operation until a higher rpm. As I recall you just need to compress the spring, pull the retaining pin and it comes apart.

 

[GLantern]

Not too hard then, any recommended washer size increments?


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[kajj]

Not too hard then, any recommended washer size increments?

Zman is right. It is easy to do, compress the spring and pull out the retaining pin. Keep the governor compressed. if it opens, the ball bearings will fall out.
Not that hard to get them back thou.

For my 2012 ec 250 I think I used a washer with ID12 and OD20, 0,5mm thick.

It really delays the hit(makes it smoother) and makes the bike so much easier to ride and control, especially for the extreme enduro type of riding.

You might want to use a thickness of 0,2-0,4mm if you want to have some hit left.

hope that helps!

 

[poelinca]

Zman is right. It is easy to do, compress the spring and pull out the retaining pin. Keep the governor compressed. if it opens, the ball bearings will fall out.
Not that hard to get them back thou.

For my 2012 ec 250 I think I used a washer with ID12 and OD20, 0,5mm thick.

It really delays the hit(makes it smoother) and makes the bike so much easier to ride and control, especially for the extreme enduro type of riding.

You might want to use a thickness of 0,2-0,4mm if you want to have some hit left.

hope that helps!

Delays the hit, but the power is still there right ? It will rev up, just not so fast and sudden ? Like a 4 stroke ?

 

[kajj]

Delays the hit, but the power is still there right ? It will rev up, just not so fast and sudden ? Like a 4 stroke ?

Still a nice bottom end with lots of torque. but much more easy to control on the slow stuff. Yea more like a four stroke I guess.

Yes it will rev up, no difference there except the power valve will actuate later.
And since it actuates later, I feel the hit is not as hard as it used to be.

For me it really helped against arm pump as I can be more relaxed when riding.

give it a try, best mod I have done

 

[poelinca]

Still a nice bottom end with lots of torque. but much more easy to control on the slow stuff. Yea more like a four stroke I guess.

Yes it will rev up, no difference there except the power valve will actuate later.
And since it actuates later, I feel the hit is not as hard as it used to be.

For me it really helped against arm pump as I can be more relaxed when riding.

give it a try, best mod I have done

I'm sold on trying it. I'll need to wait for a gasket tough, since the right side cover has to come off.