Another gasgas newbie question
- Thread starter Kai
- Start date
noobi
New member
Im not going to start on what oil to run, thats kind of like whats your favorite kind of woman, too many answers and all of them correct.
However, generally, any kind of fourstroke motorcycle oil will work fine, as will motorcycle gear oil, ATF works well too. Stick to a brand you have experience with, or can get easily/cheaply and change it regularly (~10 hours or so) and you wont have any problems.
It officially takes 900ml, but putting in 1L is fine, and means you wont have tiny amounts of oil left because 900ml isn't a very economical volume.
Also, no, there is no filter on the crankcase.
However, generally, any kind of fourstroke motorcycle oil will work fine, as will motorcycle gear oil, ATF works well too. Stick to a brand you have experience with, or can get easily/cheaply and change it regularly (~10 hours or so) and you wont have any problems.
It officially takes 900ml, but putting in 1L is fine, and means you wont have tiny amounts of oil left because 900ml isn't a very economical volume.
Also, no, there is no filter on the crankcase.
gasser
New member
If you're here in the USA Shell Rotella is easy to find at Wall-Mart or auto parts stores. Regular Rotella runs about $12 a gallon, full synthetic about $22 a gallon, and the semi synthetic somewhere in between. All are very good oils and more people seem to use them than anything else here in the USA. The regular Rotella is the thickest and the full synthetic the thinnest. If your clutch tends to drag slightly after your oil gets dirty then then thinner (full synthetic) does not have to be changed as often. My 07 gasser (even when new) needed the full synthetic to make it 15 hours between oil changes before starting to drag. My 99 and 01 gassers would easily go that long with the regular Rotella.
nambo-trev
New member
+1 amsoil 0-40
nknudsen
Member
Hey Trev... is this the oil you run in the dead of winter?
nambo-trev
New member
Yup it's much better than the 10w, Wes and I both swear by it in extreme cold
pscook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Just remember that if your oil is clean it isn't holding any debris in suspension. Oil that is dirty is oil that is working.
I use a 50/50 mix of ATF Type F and 10W-30 motor oil. No problems in the last several oil changes, oil comes out nice and brown (detergents at work). I recently put in a 25/75 ATF/Oil mix and noticed my clutch was a little grabby and engaged a little sooner/harsher than I like. It is making me think that maybe the ATF is causing a little slip at the engagement point, so I might run the 25/75 for a bit and see how it lasts.
nambo-trev
New member
Mine is working very well, mine never comes out looking remotely good lol!
liv2day
Platinum Level Site Supporter
Ran ATF type F through my KTM 300 XCW for 107 hours and never had an issue. Changed it every ~5ish hours and plan to the same on the new-to-me EC200. I dropped the 10W-30 the previous owner had in there and put ATF in prior to my first ride last weekend (which was an awesome experience).
I have to ask - what the heck is with the filler "cap" on the motor...that's the smallest damn opening I've ever seen...lol. I had to use one of my wife's funnels from the kitchen to get the ATF in - she wasn't very happy
Anyway, I'm an ATF convert. It's inexpensive and hasn't caused any slippage or clutch issues on my 300; expect the same from the GG.
