ANOTHER gearbox oil question

[dode]

I know it’s been asked many times but looking for confirmation.
I’m from the uk and have a 2008 EC250.

The manual calls for 10w30 transmission oil.
Doesn’t say synthetic or mineral etc etc.

Can car engine oil be used or 4t oil.
Or is this 10w30 grade different to transmission oil.

Just trying to find something I can source locally.

Thank you.


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[SS109]

Don't use car oil! It has additives to help reduce friction which can destroy wet clutches. It has to be an oil designed for wet clutch systems. So, any 4T motorcycle oil will work in the transmission.

That said, I run ATF in all my bikes.

 

[dode]

Thank you.
Read a lot of ATF being run by many people.
So no ill affects whatsoever with 100% ATF oil?
Any specific ATF you use?


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[(F5)]

GG clutches can drag.

If I use Motul std Transoil it drags enough to make kickstarting in gear hard.

But if I used Motul Transoil Expert there is no trouble. Just check the bottle.

 

[SS109]

Thank you.
Read a lot of ATF being run by many people.
So no ill affects whatsoever with 100% ATF oil?
Any specific ATF you use?

Never had any issues running it in 5 different bikes. My KDX now has over 1000 hours on it since a complete bottom rebuild, has had nothing but Type F ATF in it, and it's still going strong. Haven't even had to replace the clutch yet! You can check out most any video on my Youtube channel over the last three years on how hard I have run it with ATF for all those hours which includes some racing.

As far as brands, as long as it meets the spec I don't care. I'll run the cheapest Type F I can find.

My Gasser will be done really soon (some vids on there about it) and it will be getting ATF like always.

 

[swazi_matt]

belray gearsaver worked really well in the 2010/11 squealing clutches with noise, drag and with longevity

my TXT i run 50/50 gear oil and ATF. ATF on its own felt notchy and gear oil on its own had drag issues

 

[(F5)]

The Trials bikes have different feel and are diaphragm clutch, or at least my 14 is. Lovely thing. Old owner had it on Rock oil GRO. Clutch fantastic. Gearbox is knotchy to be fair, but it's not like you change it that often. Only in transport sections.

 

[dode]

Thanks for the advice folks!
Can anyone tell me if this is suitable please?

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[SS109]

Maybe. It says it works for "immersed clutches" but it doesn't specify a weight and I'm not sure if the API and JASO specs are right.

 

[dode]

Maybe. It says it works for "immersed clutches" but it doesn't specify a weight and I'm not sure if the API and JASO specs are right.

It does specify weight as 10w30 on the label.
API says GL-4 which supersedes the ‘SF’ stared in my owners manual unless I am wrong and someone correct me please.
My manual says nothing about JASO specs so this might be something I need to look at.
Thanks for your advice and input.




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[(F5)]

Sorry, I've lost track of what we are trying to achieve?

So you live on a farm and are trying to avoid a trip into the big smoke in case Sheriff Rossco P Coleraine busts you for runnin Moonshine? So what can I find in the big ole barn out back?

Dude. If it drags you will be having to buy something else, so cheap twice or more will get expensive quick.

 

[SS109]

It does specify weight as 10w30 on the label.
API says GL-4 which supersedes the ?SF? stared in my owners manual unless I am wrong and someone correct me please.
My manual says nothing about JASO specs so this might be something I need to look at.
Thanks for your advice and input.

Man, I totally missed the 10w30 on the label. Damn old man brain and eyes!

Honestly, you'll probably be fine using it.

 

[5valve]

Which oil? Brand doesn't matter. Gradation 10w 30 or 10w 40. Even 75W80 or single grade 30 or 40 or 80 or 85. Synthetic, partial or mineral..does not matter.
Once you feel oil doesn't perform anymore, replace it. 5-15 hrs, depending on abuse. There is no risk factor if you use any of the prescribed range oil.
Prolonging worn oil use, a lot of risk.
ATF is ok, if a bit abrupt clutch actuation in nasty stuff doesn't bother you. It bothers me.

The most important thing nobody mentions is the JASO MA standard. Gear/clutch oil has to be either JASO MA1 or MA2.

To decipher the JASO standard, a lot data available online. It is about measured feel of the clutch.
Once you try to take off in steep, mixed terrain, with utmost concern of grip modulation and every movement in clutch lever can be precisely transferred to rear...this is where JASO matters.

For general allround riding, commuting, open trailing where clutch is used rarely, even automotive oil, non energy conserving, can be used.

Currently I'm using jaso ma2..manufacturer does not matter, as branding is for eyes...and it modulates quite nicely in tight.

Next, will try ma1 for comparison.