Auto clutch Install, Rekluse or S3 Clutch Basket?

Can't bleed Rekluse Clutch Slave Cylinder

I received my new Relkuse Basket with the larger 46mm hole. Everything bolted up nice without any problems.I will post some photos later. But, I can't bleed the adjustible Rekluse Slave Cylinder. I followed the steps in their video and I read the threads on this forum. I backed out the allen bolt on the slave cyl until the rubber gasket showed, then I filled the cyl with fluid and screwed the cylinder back in while watching for air bubbles and keeping the cylinder filled with Magura "Blood" fluid. Then, I backed the allen screw back out until the rubber gasket showed again. Then I slowly pressed the piston back into the assembly while keeping the fluid level and watching for air bubbles.

Then I mounted the Rekluse Slave Cylinder using the the two Rekluse washers, and banjo bolt and the oem mounting bolts. Here is the problem. I took off the master cylinder cover, fitted a clear hose on the banjo bolt and pumped the lever as I slowly opened the banjo bolt but no fluid flowed into the hose, I continued to open the banjo bolt but no fluid flowed into the hose. As I continued to open the bolt some fluid finally passed under the lower banjo washer but no fluid passed into the hose.

I tried back bleeding the system with a syringe but still same problem, no fluid passes into the hose. Following the threads here I removed the brake lever so the master cylinder plunger could move outward to push fluid into the line but this didn't help, same problem.Finally following another thread I removed the pressure plate and attempted to bleed the system again. Same problem, no fluid will flow into the line. Is is possible that there is something wrong with the Rekluse banjo bolt?
 
everything you did sounds right.
But you mention Rekluse banjo bolt. Mine did not come with that. I used the OEM one.

Question...when you are bleeding you are not loosening the actual banjo bolt are you?
You want that sucker very tight and only losen the bleed nipple on top of the banjo bolt....
 
Most problems like this are from the master cyl piston being in the wrong position and blocking the holes to the reservoir. Back bleeding is the only way to really get it free of air. If you remove the banjo at the master cyl temporarily, and force fluid through the fitting (loosened of course) on the slave with a syringe, does it flow freely up and out? if not there is some restriction in the Rekluse slave. Remove and examine the fitting and bore for clues. When you reinstall the fitting, use Teflon tape on the threads. This keeps air out and fluid in when the fitting is loose.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Are you doing the initial bleed with the springs on? I had to back mine up to get the thing to pump up, then put the springs on and adjust.
 
Are you doing the initial bleed with the springs on? I had to back mine up to get the thing to pump up, then put the springs on and adjust.

Are you saying that you removed the outer 6 Rekluse pressure plate springs in order to bleed the adjustable slave cylinder???
 
FWIW, I bleed the slave off the motor with the piston compressed. That way there is minimun volume of air to displace with oil. What is so different about the Rekluse part? Isn't it just a conventional slave cyl with stop screw to limit piston return? Looks that way.
 
More Trouble

Ok here is the update. When I got home today I started from scratch. I bled the slave cylinder off the bike per the Rekluse instructions. After install, I was able to bleed the slave cylinder using the lever and back bleeding with fluid passing either way. Here is the problem, I can only get the clutch lever to firm up in the late 25% of travel right before the lever contacts the handlebar. I tried for over an hour to get the lever to firm up without success.

I'm kinda lost at this point. The problem seems to be with the slave cylinder piston.
 
BTW, I did not see a paper gasket on the oem slave only a rubber o ring. The Rekluse came with an oring. Does the original oem oring need to be put on the Rekluse? There doesn't appear to be a place for it.
 
Sorry that I am late getting back to you.
When I bled mine, I pulled all but 2 springs off the pressure plate, so that it had some pressure on the pushrod, but not the full amount. this seemed to let the piston pump up. As you said, there is no spring in the slave, so you need some pressure on it to get it to work back and forth. Once I got it working a little I was able to black bleed, shot fluid everywhere, but it finally bled. It doesn't sound like you are able to get fluid flowing up hill. I did use the banjo that came with the core2. Stupid question, does it have a hole in it - I have seen some funny machining errors...

Fyi: I also had to pull the clutch lever to open the valve and let if flow. Did you also pull out the adjuster knob on the lever? I think on one of my bikes I had to remove the rubber cone and pull the bit that the adjuster pushes on, it wasn't extending all the way. Sorry, August - June 15th was an MF at work, almost no sleep and I can't remember siht from that time :)
 
Yes, I have the adjuster screw removed. I'll try your method tomorrow, I'll remove the lever and only install two springs on the pressure plate. I removed the slave cylinder while is was connected to the clutch line, and put some pressure on the lever to see if there was any piston movement. I pushed just a little too much and just a little of the piston seal pushed out around the piston edges, it is only a tiny amount but now after disconnecting the clutch hose from the rekluse slave cylinder, I can't manually compress the piston back into the slave housing. I know that Rekluse sells a "tamper tool" for installing that piston seal. Is that Rekluse tool necessary or is there another way to compress that seal into the housing without damaging it?
 
Mine popped completely out, just managed to push it back in. Just be careful to not nick the seal, you may have to disconnect from the line to be able to push it back or at least break the seal on the banjo to let it bleed.
 
Stock clutch here; I had a heck of a time getting mine bled properly. I finally made up a lexan plate with an air fitting. Put this over the clutch master and hooked up an electric vacuum pump. Let it run for a while and this pulled the last of the air out. It only takes a miniscule bit of air intrusion to stop the system from working.
 
I just spoke to the Rekluse Rep and they don't know what is causing the problem. Mark at Gofasters said to loosen the slave cylinder mounting bolts while bleeding the cylinder. I am sure it is something simple that I have done incorrrectly.
 
I gave up and went to my local Pumpkin Dealer. The KTM tech was able to bleed the line but it took a LONG TIME. I have firm clutch pull now but guess what? The KTM tech turned the adjuster all the way in and still could not get the correct install gap. He thought that the Rekluse steel plates, that were specially machined to be used with Honda Fibers, might be off bc he thinks we have one plate too many in the clutch stack(right now we have 8 steels and 7 fibers installed even though Rekluse sent me 8 steels and 8 fibers and told me to start with a steel plate and install 8 steels and 7 fibers. :rolleyes: Any ideas or input?
 
Man you can't get a break can you...?
It sure seems like your total stack thickness (8 steels and 7 fibers) is too thick.
Per the photo below the thicker the stack gets the less "Installed Gap" you will have which in turn means you will not be able to get the EXP to work.
I would start by measuring each steel plate and fibers or put them all together and get a total measurement.

813258c9-0efa-41d5-9143-481b3d07c546_zps69a93d0c.jpg


I would give Rekluse a call on Monday and hopefully they can help you.

One quick warning though. They may recommend that you install an additional washer to the throw-out assembly....this is something they recommended that I do. All that did is push the Rekluse pressure plate out further and then as I was working on adjusting the "gap" for setup the pressure plate came in contact to the Rekluse clutch cover. And you don't want that because when you remove the cover the inside of the cover will look something like this.....:eek::eek:

damagecover_zps894572aa.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top