peanutsracing1
New member
hi all, i have a gg ec200 i am 5,6ft tall and am not sure which hole to put the bar clamps in, front or back? i race, if that makes any difference.
Bar mounts which hole
- Thread starter peanutsracing1
- Start date
peanutsracing1
New member
clamps dont fit the rear hole, bolt to big, and in the front the bars hit the fork tops because iv droped them through 18mm, i dont want to lower the forks, im thinking of making rear hole bigger but will talk to my dealer to see if he has a different clamp.
GMP
Active member
Thats weird, is it a used bike? Sounds like the front holes were drilled to accept different bar mounts like BRPs with larger bolts.
If you like the rear position, you can go with GG OEM clamps in the rear holes.
I have an older BRP top clamp for WPs/Zoke 45mm Shivers with fatbar mounts that locate the bars just rear of the fork centers. This is OK for a shorter rider. It has a damper mount/bar clamp and Fastway pinch bolt mounted handguard mounts. I don't need it, if you think you'd be interested let me know.
If you like the rear position, you can go with GG OEM clamps in the rear holes.
I have an older BRP top clamp for WPs/Zoke 45mm Shivers with fatbar mounts that locate the bars just rear of the fork centers. This is OK for a shorter rider. It has a damper mount/bar clamp and Fastway pinch bolt mounted handguard mounts. I don't need it, if you think you'd be interested let me know.
peanutsracing1
New member
im going to drill the holes out, it only needs a small amount taking out.
gassi
New member
Hi! As far as I know, There in europe almost every top mx and endurorider put their handlebar clamps to rear hole.
This been told by to former many time enduro wolrdchampion and by some mechanic who's been working with many top rider's.
The handlebar should be always behind the front fork's center line.
If you ride your bike with handlebar which is mounted very front, your bike's front end will be very unstable when you ride on the soft terrain, for example a soft sand.
Make a test and you will notice it!
peanutsracing1
New member
whats a over bar set up mean mate?
peanutsracing1
New member
I?ve been out doing a shakedown before my race season starts and have found that there is a very big difference in which placing the bar mounts in the different holes.
a lot of my races are in the woods and nice and tight so I went to my trading grounds which consist of a tight wood course with a lot of woopy bits, at first I found the bike really hard to handle but once I got my head around it it was not too bad, I found I had to stand really late into the corner and it was harder to steer the bike with power, the front had a tendency to wash out of burms.
I came in and changed the holes the bars were mounted in to the rear holes.
Instantly the bike became easier in every tight turn, front stopped washing out and steering with the power was better. I will be leaving the bar mounts in the rear holes all season, the front holes were terrible compared the front.
a lot of my races are in the woods and nice and tight so I went to my trading grounds which consist of a tight wood course with a lot of woopy bits, at first I found the bike really hard to handle but once I got my head around it it was not too bad, I found I had to stand really late into the corner and it was harder to steer the bike with power, the front had a tendency to wash out of burms.
I came in and changed the holes the bars were mounted in to the rear holes.
Instantly the bike became easier in every tight turn, front stopped washing out and steering with the power was better. I will be leaving the bar mounts in the rear holes all season, the front holes were terrible compared the front.
bchatt
Bronze Level Site Supporter
That's interesting. How far down are your forks in the triple clamps? How much rear sag are you running?
peanutsracing1
New member
i have the forks dropped through 15mm ish and this helps a lot,
When i picked the bike up a couple of mounths ago they were not dropped through at all and it just didnt want to turn, im running about a 1 ich of sag on the rear shock but think the forks and shock need some work on them as i cant find a setting i like, forks are as hard as they can go and the shock is as soft as it can go, this is the only way i can get a setting i like, also if im riding all day the rear of the bike will drop as the shock warms up, i felt it the other day and it got quit hot, i think this is a sign of it needing a good service and maybe a revalve?
When i picked the bike up a couple of mounths ago they were not dropped through at all and it just didnt want to turn, im running about a 1 ich of sag on the rear shock but think the forks and shock need some work on them as i cant find a setting i like, forks are as hard as they can go and the shock is as soft as it can go, this is the only way i can get a setting i like, also if im riding all day the rear of the bike will drop as the shock warms up, i felt it the other day and it got quit hot, i think this is a sign of it needing a good service and maybe a revalve?
peanutsracing1
New member
when i changed the bar mounts because i have the forks dropped through i had to have spacers made up so the bar did not hit the fork tops this rased the bars, when i changed the bar mount hole to the rear i lifted the forks a bit so they would fit and took away the spacers, this could be the reason i had difficultys, when mounts were in the front hole i need a higher spacer 17.5mm, i only need a 5mm spacer in the rear.
this could be the issue, i have to enginer the bolts as the nut can not be done up when in the rear hole. I was i cept the original bars now!!!
this could be the issue, i have to enginer the bolts as the nut can not be done up when in the rear hole. I was i cept the original bars now!!!
GMP
Active member
Your setup is all wrong especially for your size. No way you should need 15mm of fork over the clamps. You need to go back to basics. Correct fork spring rate with little preload. Lower bars with no risers or a few mm. You should not need more than 5mm of fork over the clamps. Correct shock spring with 10mm preload max. If there is one thing a GG does it is steer fast, it should not be this hard.
peanutsracing1
New member
i dropped the forks on my first ride of this bike, it had standard bars and clamps, i found that it made it turn better untill i did this i found the fronts to climb burms and was out a lot, it fixed the problem.
the forks felt really soft from the start, in muddy conditions when i shut the gas off the front dug in a lot, iv hardend it up and is better, the rear shock always seems to be trying to buck me of when i hit anything, softening it up has made it better?
my bike befor tis was a yamaha yz250f and i had the forks and shock re valved shock re sprung, i loved the way it handled, never any probs, this one seems all over the place, might go on a set up day?
the forks felt really soft from the start, in muddy conditions when i shut the gas off the front dug in a lot, iv hardend it up and is better, the rear shock always seems to be trying to buck me of when i hit anything, softening it up has made it better?
my bike befor tis was a yamaha yz250f and i had the forks and shock re valved shock re sprung, i loved the way it handled, never any probs, this one seems all over the place, might go on a set up day?
GMP
Active member
What year is your 200? Marzocchi fork? I would not be surprised if you need more rebound damping in the fork, to hold it down a hair longer entering corners. If the rear is kicking over small bumps, first thing I think of is too much preload.
The bar position should not have a huge effect on the handling.
How would you compare the power to your YZ250F, across the range?
The bar position should not have a huge effect on the handling.
How would you compare the power to your YZ250F, across the range?
peanutsracing1
New member
My 200 is a 2006 and has the shiver fork, i think the 45mm.
For all i know there may be no oil in the forks as iv not long had it and it came from some one who didnt look after it, iv got the bike up to a nice standard but have run out of money for now, first race of the season in two weeks so hope to get it sorted.
as for the yzf 250, i realy miss the suspension!!!! but as for the power i think the 200 has a bigger punch out of the corner when i get it right! but the yzf just keep pulling and pulling and never seemed that it would slow down, on the 200 as you start going through the gears it does not feel as fast or anywere near as powerfull, i think a sproket change could change this but i dont want any more power or punch when coming out of the corner.
My mate says i should be in a higher gear but reving it more?
For all i know there may be no oil in the forks as iv not long had it and it came from some one who didnt look after it, iv got the bike up to a nice standard but have run out of money for now, first race of the season in two weeks so hope to get it sorted.
as for the yzf 250, i realy miss the suspension!!!! but as for the power i think the 200 has a bigger punch out of the corner when i get it right! but the yzf just keep pulling and pulling and never seemed that it would slow down, on the 200 as you start going through the gears it does not feel as fast or anywere near as powerfull, i think a sproket change could change this but i dont want any more power or punch when coming out of the corner.
My mate says i should be in a higher gear but reving it more?
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