Best Long Term Rotors OEM or Aftermarket

M

mlyle11

New member
I am soooo close to finishing a complete the overhaul of my 2001 EC200. This has been a top to bottom affair. I just got my Ohlins suspension back from Borelli in Mendota IL. Highly recommended!

One of the last things to buy is replacement rotors. I am hoping that someone has some long term experiance with Moose or Galfer or some of the others. It seems like the Moose solid mudfree might be good. Galfer, for the money better be great. My OEM's *10 years old* are still striaght, but badly grooved. I blame this on very poor caliper preventive maintenance. I will be writing up the details of my caliper overhaul, but it seems most people ignore the boots, sllides, clips, etc.

Soooo any very positive recommendations out there berfore I click buy it now?

Hope all goes well for everyone!
 
rotors can last almost forever if the slides are greased and maintained. i always give the calipers a quick pull before a ride to make sure they're not siezed...

i've had good luck with the moose solid rotor.
 
+2 on the Moose solid rotor (rear).
No overheating issues even in the 100F summers here in Texas.
 
I ordered up the solid rear moose last night. 119, free shipping seems to be the standard on ebay. My front rotor seems pretty good at the moment, but I will need a new one during my winter maintenance. I'm working on what I hope becomes a sticky for caliper overhaul. I've been building a cross over list for all the replacement small parts. GG charges a mint for these, when most of them, the clips, boots, pins, seals, are either CR or KDX cross overs for the Nissin caliper.
 
The Moose is fine, but I have had great luck with the GG solid rotors for about $30-40 less if you can still get them and at that price. I have a few, one on each of my rear wheels, and they are holding up very well.
 
I definitely would have tried the OEM solid rear, especially to save a few dollars. I am only about 300% overbudget on the restore of my 250. Woa is my pocket book. Rather happy are Hall's and Go Fasters!!! I'll be rebuilding my 200 this winter. I'll look to the OEM rear disc on this one and run a long term comparo. Thanks Glenn!
 
Im running the moose wave rotor up front and a slotted rotor out back. They feel very predictable when stopping. I havent used the solid rotors, cause it just doesnt get enough of the wet stuff that falls from the sky where I live.
 
I'm kinda afraid to run the solids myself as I have boiled the brake fluid on my 97 and 03 regularly with the vented rotors.. I think I have an issue dragging the brake at times...
 
Contrary to popular belief, solid rotors are actually better for high heat/ dry conditions.
The solid rotor pulls the heat away from the pads. As a result, less heat to the brake fluid.
 
I run solids all the time and have no problem. I'm also a bit of a brake slider going fast in the tight stuff. You should run organic pads with solids, as they will not pass as much heat to the caliper. Life is excellent as there are no sharp edges of slots/holes with mud/sand passing by the pads. Sintered metal pads are like a heat sink.

Paul,

If you have the older style larger Nissin caliper on your '07 like me, its the most common caliper out there. Many prior years of Hondas used that caliper. You can use a KTM rear rotor. The ID is a hair bigger but the bolt pattern is the same.
 
Glen is the rear master the same as many other bikes? Mine is so bad right now I need to pump it up.
 
Paul,

Sorry I can't say for sure but logic says it should be. GG is small and does not source special parts. I'd look at Honda CRs for starters. Whatever used the same caliper/pads should have had the same master as well. Likely KXs too. Can you just get a kit and rebuild yours?
 
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