Bleeding clutch!
- Thread starter Pepperami
- Start date
I'm having trouble bleeding the system. Any tips would be much appreciated, Cheers.Just open bleeder bolt enough and let fluid run about 2-3 times reservoirs capasity. Keep reservoir filled all the time. Then close bleeder, fill reservoir cup and close coverage.
If clutc needs bleeding after that do it again.
Remember to use mineral oil - not any dot brakefuids! If you don't have mineral clurchfluid available 5W fork oil works fine.
If clutc needs bleeding after that do it again.
Remember to use mineral oil - not any dot brakefuids! If you don't have mineral clurchfluid available 5W fork oil works fine.
It is written on the master cylinder which type of fluid is required. My 03 uses DOT 3 or DOT 4.
Here is how I bled mine after rebuilding the master cylinder.
Turn bars so the MC reservoir is almost level and small bubbles in the intake hole are not trapped. They will bubble up the the surface when the lever is squeezed 1/4 inch.
1. open bleeder at slave cyl.
2. squeeze clutch lever and hold it while you tighten the bleeder.
repeat steps 1 and 2 until you get only solid fluid from the bleeder.
3. barely depress clutch rapidly causing tiny bubbles (if present) to surface in master cyl. reservoir.
Never let the fluid level get low enough for the MC to gulp any air.
If all is well with your system this whole process should take less than 5 min and require you to top off fluid level 2 or 3 times.
Rick
New member
I've always bleed mine from the bottom up. I use some clear plastic hose, zip tie it on to the bleed nipple, clean stringe and push fluid from the bottom up with the master cylinder cover off. Then I take an other stringe and vacuum out the old "dirty" fluid. I use this method for clutch and front and rear brakes.
I have found this method works best, as you do not let any air into the system. I also put a "loop" in my hose from the stringe to the nipple.
Good Luck
I have found this method works best, as you do not let any air into the system. I also put a "loop" in my hose from the stringe to the nipple.
Good Luck
I should have added to make sure your lever has a small gap before it starts to move your MC piston. If it doesn't it will not intake fluid properly and even if you somehow get it bled it can cause the system to pump up and or feel spongey. This also applies to the front brake.
wasp4banger
New member
I've always bleed mine from the bottom up. I use some clear plastic hose, zip tie it on to the bleed nipple, clean stringe and push fluid from the bottom up with the master cylinder cover off. Then I take an other stringe and vacuum out the old "dirty" fluid. I use this method for clutch and front and rear brakes.
I have found this method works best, as you do not let any air into the system. I also put a "loop" in my hose from the stringe to the nipple.
Good Luck
+1, I bleed mine this way, easy if you do it like this.
Sorry! Just realised your bike is 2005. reservoir cap tells is it DOT or mineral...
S
skraMnoR
Guest
I've always bleed mine from the bottom up. I use some clear plastic hose, zip tie it on to the bleed nipple, clean stringe and push fluid from the bottom up with the master cylinder cover off. Then I take an other stringe and vacuum out the old "dirty" fluid. I use this method for clutch and front and rear brakes.
I have found this method works best, as you do not let any air into the system. I also put a "loop" in my hose from the stringe to the nipple.
Good Luck
Do you have any pictures of your setup for this process?
JP4
New member
I use the same method with a 2 oz (60 ml) plastic syringe I purchased at a medical supply store.
husley
Bronze Level Site Supporter
+1
The gap between plunger lever and MC Piston is critical. The Piston must be able to fully extend/to come back out (in my experience).
I have always had luck with this technique.
Pump
Allow Lever to fully release
Watch bubbles arrive in the Reservoir
Repeat until no more bubbles
Smile when complete
