Pressure test clutch bubbles!

...there should never be a need for drive the flywheel onto its taper with anything but your own fingers. It is a loose fit until it is onto the taper.

I figured there was no good reason the thread should have been smashed. :confused:

Here's a picture of the smashed thread...
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...you can see the outer two rings of thread are hardly visible where they've been flattened. :mad:

I couldn't make a puller for the outside work, so resorted to the one that I purchased. I had to grind out the smashed bits like so...
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...I don't think it'll effect the balance. :rolleyes:
 
OK, so I now have the answer to a previous question of mine; what is the third hole (between the two drain plugs) in the bottom of the engine for, and should it have a bolt in it? ...mine did when I got it, but it let a load of water out when I removed it.

The hole, indicated here:
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...is a drain hole for that chamber above it.

That chamber seems to do nothing other than collect water (or any thing else) that comes through this hole that is behind the stator:
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So it probably doesn't matter too much whether you have a bolt in there or not, but if you get water in the engine you probably want to remove it to let any water out. :)
 
Ok, next question.

Should the power valve bearings be airtight?

If not, or if so and they've failed, that could be how the pressure from my engine pressure test was coming out behind the clutch slave; not through the crank seal, but through the power valve. I may have simply needed to tighten the clutch slave bolts. It seems odd though that there isn't a gasket to go there though. ...maybe the oil, water, dirt, etc from the chain would destroy a gasket? I don't know.

But if not, isn't that an air leak issue as the engine can pull air in through the two powervalve vents. :confused:


All in all though, the bottom end of the engine looks like it's in good condition. I would hazard a guess that the whole engine got some love when they upgraded it to 300. The only dodgy looking part is the top piston rod bearing, which looks like it has some rust spots on it...
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One thing I have now confirmed is that I do have the correct stator, ...at least I have the same one that RockerfellerGG's friend has in his 250, as seen in this photo:

432CDE8E-41A9-4F3A-ABEC-EB142B091A12_zpssnv8ou3j.jpg


from this post:

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=165504&postcount=12

However his engine is different to mine, he has the four bolt cover, I only have the three bolt...
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I wonder if someone took one from a newer bike to put in my engine? That could explain the bad splicing of wires. :confused:


Next thing is to order all the bits that I want to replace, and then work out how the gearbox parts go back together. They all went their own ways when I split the case. =(
 
That's all super queer. My 07 has a bolt that goes directly into the crankcase . I've opened it after a river crossing that went badly and about 5 litres of water poured out as it emptied the header as well.

Kick kick, ba-ring-ding-ding.
This was more common on European bikes. Clever feature.
 
It in the US bikes also,but there is a hole that has no bolt (told by a dealer it there from the factory for a engine stand) I have three bikes and two parts bikes all have it, Someone probably put a bolt in it.
 
That's all super queer. My 07 has a bolt that goes directly into the crankcase . I've opened it after a river crossing that went badly and about 5 litres of water poured out as it emptied the header as well.

Kick kick, ba-ring-ding-ding.
This was more common on European bikes. Clever feature.

There is another hole, further forward from this one, that has a bolt and would empty the crankcase. :)
 
CrankyBrit you do get a bonus with that engine. It's the older counterbalanced type. The balancer shaft is above and to the rear of the flywheel. Supposed to make for a very smooth engine.
 
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