cable routing-2012

adv rider

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How are the cables/wires routed on 2012 to eliminate them from being used as a steering stop? Turning right goes right to stop, but going left used the clutch,throttle,wiring as a stop. That small amount made a difference in the switchbacks.

I separated the wires from the throttle, and clutch, but it only goes right to stop if I hold the cables up high toward gas tank. Do I need to zip tie these way up?

Also I read that some have used the Twinwalls without crossbar, how has this worked? No problems with the bars failing? and did you cut off the crossbar mounts?
 
cable routing

So has anyone had issues with cables/wires on left side, being used as a steering stop? I notice this on a few switchbacks I encounter, and feel like I barely make the turn. Compared to previous bike{kxf}, it just doesn't seem to turn as tight.

Is it really the small decrease in turning range to left, or does the 2012+ have a decreased turning radius?
 
On my 2013 the triple clamp touches the rad hose just before contacting the stop on the left hand side. Throttle and clutch cause no issues at all. I can take a photo of how they're routed if you like.

Been using twinwalls with cross member removed on both my bikes with no issues. Renthal said no issues as its still essentially a fat bar. Remove teh brace using an electric impact to rattle the allen head out, then just spread the clamps once the crossmember is off.
 
My 12' goes stop to stop on both sides. The cables are routed thro the eyelets on the frame. I have the same bars also.
 
cables

Thanks for the responses. I will try some of the advice out today. It will turn to the allen bolt stop on the lower triple-if I force it. But I can feel the softer material of cables/hose first. It doesn't have a solid feel, like turning right. When it goes right to the allen bolt stop.

I actually put a thin washer on bolt, just so I don't damage my clutch hose. But I would prefer removing, and making it turn as far as possible.
 
If I did this right there is a picture of my cables. The cables have no pressure at full turn. There is very little contact with the rad hose that dampens the metalic feel of hitting the stop, but it is very minor and a non issue I think.
 

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routing

Ok,I think I now see what the problem is. Where all of you have the wires,hose zip tied. The wires,etc are coming out from under tank. Mine is coming out more to the left,so they run a longer distance along frame to steering head.
So the forks are able to contact hose, mine is flattened. So I need to remove the gas tank, so I can move the wires more toward center. Then zip tie them to the cable guide.
Not sure if that makes sense, but I do see what I need to do. It just came to me. I was trying earlier, with no luck.

Also in that photo,if my wires were bundled like that. My steering stops would be about 1/4" away from frame. The difference is my wires are to the left of the small radiator cross over hose.
 
routing

That fixed it! Had to push the clutch hose in farther, now the hose goes over spark plug cap and then up to cable guide. Now the it turns right to the stops. The upper edge of lower triple clamp just barely touches the Rad. cage cross bar. So that's as far as it will ever turn.

Although I could probably do something with the cross bars, maybe in the future. I am just happy it isn't crushing my clutch hose anymore.
 
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