I'm putting this on here for my buddy. He has an '07 EC 300 and it has given him nothing but trouble from day one. For whatever reason, the carb is always maladjusted. It never runs clean no matter how much he fiddles with it. I forget at the moment what jets he has in it but I do know that he is using the LTR tapered needle. He also has problems with the pilot jet having junk in it. We have discussed it all in detail trying to find out where the gunk is coming from. He has shortened the vent lines and we think the airbox/boot may be the culprit. They don't seem to fit properly like my '02 XC 300 does. I'm just trying to find a solution for him. Does anyone else out there with the same bike have these issues?
Carb Problems
- Thread starter gascanuck
- Start date
GMP
Active member
Plastic tanks can have shards left in them from the mfg. process. I always remove the tank on a new bike and flush/dump it out a couple of times with a cup or so of gas. The '07s have no external fuel filter stock, and I'm not sure whats in the tank, but when I got my '00 and '03 the fuel filter had plastic shards in it. You should seal the boot to the airbox, and be very carefull when installing the filter, but this won't cause dirt in the pilot. Run filters on the carb vent lines, and route the two from the vertical fittings up high.
If you seal the boot to the airbox, with the subframe in place first remove the filter and loosen the airboot clamp on the carb. Now rotate the airboot back and forth, you will notice a far amount of slop here. Position the airboot for the best fit on the carb, and mark the edge of the boot and airbox so it can be sealed in this position when removed. Note, the airfilter seals on the airboot itself, but the fit to the box is quite loose and sealing things together seems to provide a more rigid airboot surface for the filter to seal against.
Take the carb off and check the float height, and floats for twisting. What slide does he have? The 250s seem to run very well with a #7, so I'd try a #8 if he can't get it clean with a #7. If the slide is rich its a PIA to get the low through midrange right.
Hope this helps.
If you seal the boot to the airbox, with the subframe in place first remove the filter and loosen the airboot clamp on the carb. Now rotate the airboot back and forth, you will notice a far amount of slop here. Position the airboot for the best fit on the carb, and mark the edge of the boot and airbox so it can be sealed in this position when removed. Note, the airfilter seals on the airboot itself, but the fit to the box is quite loose and sealing things together seems to provide a more rigid airboot surface for the filter to seal against.
Take the carb off and check the float height, and floats for twisting. What slide does he have? The 250s seem to run very well with a #7, so I'd try a #8 if he can't get it clean with a #7. If the slide is rich its a PIA to get the low through midrange right.
Hope this helps.
