Ceased piston

[KTMAndy]

Luckily for me a couple of the lads I know in www.scunnybikers.com are pretty handy with the spanners, I'll be drawing on there experience and tools (threaded puller) to remove the stator, which needs removing to get at the bloody wires, there's no block connector to just clip it off.

At the moment, the heads off, the clutch is out the stator case is off, blots removed, I'll have the lump out tomorrow and cracked hopefully, with some direction.

Remember, it's a 2k bike, not a bank buster and you have to learn somewhere... Hopefully I won't be made to eat this words!

 

[savage sausage]

Luckily for me a couple of the lads I know in www.scunnybikers.com are pretty handy with the spanners, I'll be drawing on there experience and tools (threaded puller) to remove the stator, which needs removing to get at the bloody wires, there's no block connector to just clip it off.

At the moment, the heads off, the clutch is out the stator case is off, blots removed, I'll have the lump out tomorrow and cracked hopefully, with some direction.

Remember, it's a 2k bike, not a bank buster and you have to learn somewhere... Hopefully I won't be made to eat this words!

Well on you go then andy, as you say you be learning how to rebuild your new bike

 

[KTMAndy]

I'll let you know how I get on with Ras sport tomorrow, if they tell me to stop and they'll finish the job off, I'll lift the lump out and deliver it to them. You make a good point about them having the right tools for the job. I'm just enjoying the experience at the moment.

 

[KTMAndy]

After a bit of work, the engines out, cases split and the cranks out. The big end is shot the nylon spacers are screwed the conrod has melted plastic all over it. But that seams to be the only damage.

If you look down the middle of the conrod you can see what's left of the big end bearing...

That looks to be the only damage, the 2 crank bearings are running sweat with no play.

I've taken the crank in to a garage to get a bearing pusher to remove the bottom end bearing, as I have no way of getting that out.

Ras Sport have been playing ball. They are sending me a new rod set, top and bottom end bearing and nylon spacers. Plus the gaskets to put it back together.

So far, it's been pretty straight forward, but I'll holdy tongue until its rebuilt and firing on one cylinder!!

 

[savage sausage]

Well at least you know where the problem lies now me thinks whilst you have got it so stripped then you may as well replace ALL the bearings in the engine to save another headache later.

Well at least they have offered which shows they are ok,but if I were you
Is be asking for a full gasket set. . If you are doing the labour side of it yourself then at least make sure they supply all the new parts.

Well at least you are starting to find out how a 2 stroke engine works they are very simple highly efficient from not a lot of parts.

Why not port match the cases whilst its split?

 

[Diggs345]

Out of interest how did you split the cases , like the guy above said you want to put new main bearings and seals in for peace of mind .
Chris

 

[KTMAndy]

Ras sport are supplying the seal kit as well. Port matching, if you have a link I'll have a look.

The bearings either side are really free, no play in them at all. But I get your point, of while it's in bits.

It's been a long time since I owned a 2t only got one because I'm having my second mid life crisis, tried my hand at dirt riding, loving it, but found a 4t quite heavy and I don't do valves cam chains... Too many bits to go wrong!

The rear engine mount/ swing arm shaft is a biatch. But a quick search of this forum, which has been priceless in helping, said use a bigger hammer! Haha, it worked.

The engine has a series of bolts around the outside, remove the power valve and clutch basket, gear selector and crank nut. For interests sake, the crank nut is a clock wise removal. Not counter clockwise like the gas gas mechanic informed me.

Then just tap it apart gently working round with a hammer and a peice of dowel. The crank slid out as smooth as butter.

Just need the parts from Ras sport, the big end bearing pushing out and the new one putting in, with spacers and new rod. But I'm taking this to a garage to get done. I don't fancy judging that by eye that could get messy, really quickly.

I'll be using the gas gas forum refference library on the rebuild.

 

[Diggs345]

Your luck they split so easy , I made a cram case puller to split them , when I was young an inexperienced I one used a chissle to part the cases not knowing any better , luckily on a engine only good for a few parts lol
To install bearings I put the cases in the oven and bearings in the freezer , they go in a treat but you have to be quick .
Anyway hope you are up and running soon.
Chris

 

[KTMAndy]

Nice one Chris, I've read that somewhere else. Though for the big end and crank build, I'd rather let someone with the right gear put that together, something spinning at 10,000 rpm with 0.1mm out of alignment would shake itself like a bugger.

Having taken 2 of us a full day of tea drinking and talking a lot of crap, to pull it apart. I don't fancy rebuilding, then taking it out again lol. If the garage put it together wrong I'll park it in the mechanics mouth lol

 

[Diggs345]

The hot and cold method I was talking about was for the main bearings , you would need a hydraulic press to press the pin out of the crank , it also needs to be trued after being pressed , something for a pro to do .

 

[KTMAndy]

Good advice, well received

 

[KTMAndy]

More shiny things arrived in the post today. Took them upto the garage doing the crank press for me, only to find they were closed!

Now have to wait til Monday evening before I can rebuild!

 

[Diggs345]

Sorted yet

 

[KTMAndy]

Not yet, waiting for Crawfords to press the crank... Had to wait until today to drop it in, hopefully get it back Wednesday