Clutch Engagement

[Wbdisco]

Curious on clutch lever engagement. My AJP master cylinder engagement is real close to the grip. My clutch plates are fairly new and drag a little. It’s hard to just slip and let it lug around. If I come to a stop and don’t pull it in all the way it will stall. I am assuming this is because of the newer plates. If I turn the adjuster in on the master does that just essentially cause the slave to push the rod in and cause slippage? I would love to have the engagement point further in the throw where I’m not smashing my fingers constantly to get the clutch to slip. Maybe time for a rebuild of the master and slave.

 

[coopernicus]

I recently rode a friends 2004 GG 250 and noticed the same thing and I was trying to figure out why it was like that...If you get yours diagnosed and fixed, please post what you find out to be the issue!

 

[gasgasman]

Needs to be back bled. Fluid is forced in at the salve cylinder.

 

[Wbdisco]

I’ll give it a go, I just didn’t know what was considered normal for engagement.

 

[Wbdisco]

So do you think that I have air in the system then? I’ve never opened anything up except the master to check fluid level.

 

[gasgasman]

Yes. Air in the system or failed master cylinder seals.
You can take a syringe and force fluid into the slave cylinder. You would see bubbles coming up into the master cylinder.

 

[Wbdisco]

I bought a syringe a few months ago just in case I needed to do this. I guess it’s time. Just out of curiosity, when does your lever engage enough to slip?

 

[webmaster]

I read long ago that if you move the adjuster too far out to try to get more throw - it can block the bleed that allows the fluid to replenish the system from the reservoir. Just something to note...

jeff

 

[Wbdisco]

Yeah, I think I figured that out the hard way. I can’t for the life of me get the syringe to push fluid back up to the reservoir. I took the bleed screw out and made sure it was clear, backed out the adjuster all the way on the master. I still blew the hose off the bleeder and got mineral oil all over my boots.
I pulled the slave off and put a c clamp on it and operated the lever and have got lots of tiny bubbles. I guess I’m gonna try again after supper.

 

[Wbdisco]

Something is not right, I have a feeling that something is keeping me from back bleeding. Not sure if the piston in the master is stuck or something. I have zero clutch pressure. The syringe will not back bleed at all, but if I try to bleed like normal, I am getting fluid out of the slave. The saga continues. I have a spare m/c and slave from a parts bike that i can try out in the mean time.

 

[gasgasman]

You may have to pull the lever in slightly, to allow the fluid to back bleed.

 

[Wbdisco]

I’ll try that, bad thing is I’m running out of mineral oil. No parts stores around here have any, so that sucks.

 

[gasgasman]

Most people switch to fork oil. Has a smoother action too.

 

[Wbdisco]

is fork oil, mineral oil??

also, i found my problem. The giant multi switch for lights, starter, etc.. was an issue. Being that it is so freaking huge, i was not getting my full throw on the clutch lever. The lever was hitting the ring on the grip and smashing it onto the switch. This is why i felt like i had so much drag, the clutch wasn't fully released. So as a symptom, i adjusted the piston adjustment in (my bad). This along with the lever adjustment wasn't letting the piston move its full stroke. Just a mess of crap really, being that the piston wasn't all the way opening i couldn't use the syringe to force fluid in the slave (thanks Jeff). Anyway, its bled, works great. Just need to find a replacement for the jumbo magnum switch (separate start/stop switches), any recommendations on something straight forward with the stock wiring harness? I appreciate the help, i knew something wasn't right. Ive been bleeding brakes and clutches on big vehicles since before i started driving.

 

[gasgasman]

Fork oil is compatible with mineral oil. Brake fluid is not compatible.

Take a 2" section of a handle bar, bolt it to the back of the headlight. Attach the switch pod to it.

 

[Wbdisco]

Any recommendations on separate start/stop switches?

 

[gasgasman]

You can take the switch pod apart and trace the wires, to run separate switches.