Ok bear with me guys n gals. This is my first bike with a hydra clutch .its a 2017 ec300. It doesnt even have an hour on it yet .I cant figure out why in the world the clutch pulls like it does when i try starting it in gear . Ive adjusted all the settings on the lever making it closer all the way out, nothing . Im just confused. How to i set where the grab is on the lever . Im used to the old ways of cables and a twister adjustment! . Any help would be greatly appreciated .
Clutch issue
- Thread starter Longo117
- Start date
(F5)
Gold Level Site Supporter
Heya.
Well it could be the basket is a little sharp and grabbing the plates and little. Maybe some hours might help. Or it could be the clutch needs a bleed (fluid type written on Mc top. Often mineral oil rather than brake fluid)
Also read oil threads. I find Motul Transoil Expert works great but Transoil standard drags.
Good luck and stick around to read the jetting threads. You won't believe how much better a different needle will make the bike run.
Well it could be the basket is a little sharp and grabbing the plates and little. Maybe some hours might help. Or it could be the clutch needs a bleed (fluid type written on Mc top. Often mineral oil rather than brake fluid)
Also read oil threads. I find Motul Transoil Expert works great but Transoil standard drags.
Good luck and stick around to read the jetting threads. You won't believe how much better a different needle will make the bike run.
pscook
Platinum Level Site Supporter
What exactly is the issue? Is the bike hard to start in gear? That's normal for a wet plate clutch. Is the clutch engaging/disengaging too early or late? That should be an adjustment at the lever, or it could be too new of a clutch and needs to wear in. Is the bike hard to push around when in gear and not running? Again, it could be that the plates are too new.
Automotive motor oil will cause the clutch to drag as well as the fact that your bike is still wearing in (as F5 mentions). Try another oil, such as ATF or a blend of ATF and motor oil. I prefer a 75/25 blend of 10w30/ATF. Even a 90wt gear oil (or 80) might work for you. I would suggest riding the bike for a few hours and see how it does.
Not be dismissive, not at all, but a new bike might need some time to fully settle in. For example, the suspension requires about 10-12 hours to really "break in," so go and ride it and see if the clutch changes.
Automotive motor oil will cause the clutch to drag as well as the fact that your bike is still wearing in (as F5 mentions). Try another oil, such as ATF or a blend of ATF and motor oil. I prefer a 75/25 blend of 10w30/ATF. Even a 90wt gear oil (or 80) might work for you. I would suggest riding the bike for a few hours and see how it does.
Not be dismissive, not at all, but a new bike might need some time to fully settle in. For example, the suspension requires about 10-12 hours to really "break in," so go and ride it and see if the clutch changes.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
You'd be amazed how many people don't realise how much drag there is on a clutch until they go to push their bike in gear with the engine off, clutch pulled and think OMG something is wrong.
On a cold engine it is most noticeable as the plates have had time to stick together. I usually rock the bike a few times before I start her to reduce intial drag. With the oil I run it's never an issue when at temp.
On a cold engine it is most noticeable as the plates have had time to stick together. I usually rock the bike a few times before I start her to reduce intial drag. With the oil I run it's never an issue when at temp.
Thanks for everyone replies i truely appreciate it .it just seems to want to lurch forwards when i start it this was even after being warmed up for about 10 min and riddenndrom my house to my garage
I was just playing with it to make adjust ment for harescramble starts and it just seemed wonky to me . Ill try everything u guys said thanks you very much !
I was just playing with it to make adjust ment for harescramble starts and it just seemed wonky to me . Ill try everything u guys said thanks you very much !
arminhammer
New member
I took a die grinder and cleaned up between every pad on the fiber discs on my wifes 11 250. The clutch is now better than anything I have ever used. It takes some time but did wonders.
Cleaning out between the pads so the grooves go down to the base material?
arminhammer
New member
You got it Neil.
periclesgsilva
New member
U mean Lever failing when u need to use a clutch big time? No clutch on Lever?
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hamilton
Gold Level Site Supporter
Yes, the master cylinder seals were ruined from piston debris not being cleaned after machining.
SpirosZ1000
Member
Same here. My 2015 clutch lasted for half a ride and then started losing pressure.My dealer replaced it with a brand new which I still have in the box as I had a clake one finger from my old gasser which I used.
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my 15 played up as well in short time. Iv bleed and changed the clutch fluid but haven't really given it a work out since. ATM gasgas Australia has 50% of parts as they are changing distributor. Ive ordered a magura master off another model as its dirt cheap, a seal kit for my 15 and a heap of other bits.
compmoto
Gold Level Site Supporter
clarification please
are you meaning from new ? as in from the factory ? I've had a 125 that I've rode approx. 45 mins with no issues, then another 15-20 mins and piece of what appeared to be "welding slag" was found in the slave piston area, seal was toast, and it beat on that end of the slave cylinder...enough to warrant replacement... I am trying to understand how anything could be in there from the factory ! I've never heard of it before on a new bike anywhere...
are you meaning from new ? as in from the factory ? I've had a 125 that I've rode approx. 45 mins with no issues, then another 15-20 mins and piece of what appeared to be "welding slag" was found in the slave piston area, seal was toast, and it beat on that end of the slave cylinder...enough to warrant replacement... I am trying to understand how anything could be in there from the factory ! I've never heard of it before on a new bike anywhere...
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hamilton
Gold Level Site Supporter
Yes, from factory, straight off showroom floor. It was just poor quality control from AJP. I know of 4 that had the same problem and 2 that didn't in my area (14/15's). Replacement with a Magura master cylinder is the easy cure, has a much better feel also.
You say your slave piston seal(on engine) was damaged? I don't follow how that had any effect on the master cylinder???
I tried this on my clutch and noticed some improvement. I was only going to check the frictions for wear, but when I noticed the plates were getting thin, I decided to try Armin's modification. The frictions were worn down to the point where the standard grooves were barely visible. They have almost 7 seasons of use.
I'd guess that deeper grooving allows the frictions to sweep more oil from the steels and reduces squawking. The improvement I noticed might be from the fact that the plates have grooves once again.
It is a time consuming job considering that there are 36 grooves x 2 sides x 8 frictions = 576 grooves. Maybe I should use them for another season to justify the work.
If I get new plates, I better get a spark plug too (just to keep Mr. F5 happy).
swazi_matt
Active member
I think I did about 2 grooves and decided it was easier to get earplugs so I couldn't hear the squealing
