Clutch Master Cylinder with More Bar Clearance

[sneaky98gt]

2011 EC250, with an AJP clutch master.

Are there any common clutch master cylinders out there that move the reservoir / cylinder away from the bars a bit?

I've got Flexx bars on my bike (which I really like), but because of how they're made, I can't slide the master cylinder inwards much before it binds up. See the picture below with the red arrow pointing to the interference I'm talking about.

This wasn't much of a problem until I cut 3/4" off each side to help with the woods riding I do. The clutch lever still clears the handguard, but now my hand / finger is 3/4" closer to the pivot point. It's still plenty rideable, but the increase in force to pull the clutch is noticeable, as is the decrease in "friction zone" travel.

There's still plenty of room on the bar to slide the MC further in (see the blue arrow), but the reservoir is contacting the larger portion of the Flexx bars and binding up, not allowing it to move any further inwards.

Are there any master cylinders out there that are spaced off the bars a bit that would allow clearance for this issue? It doesn't need to be much, probably 1/4" would be fine. I really like the AJP clutch, so that's what I'd prefer, but I could probably be talked into something else.

Thanks!

 

[gasgasman]

You need the enduro bend Flexx bars.
They have longer bar ends.

Magura master cylinders are a little bit more compact. The have a better engagement point then the AJP.

 

[sneaky98gt]

They are the enduro bend.

To be clear: everything fits fine, even after taking ~ 3/4" off each bar. There's still a good 1/4"-3/8" of clearance between the end of the lever and the handguard.

The problem is that I cut 3/4" off the bar (thus moving my hand 3/4" closer to the center), but I was only able to move the master cylinder in maybe 1/8". So now my index finger is ~ 5/8" closer to the pivot point of the lever, thus reducing leverage, increasing pull force, and decreasing the size of the "friction zone". 5/8" doesn't sound like much, but it's definitely noticeable.

It's still plenty livable; I had the longest, toughest day I think I've ever had on a bike this past weekend with it like that, so I'm still more than capable with it. But I think it'd really help to be able to move it over a bit more.

After looking at it last night, I think there's a way I can modify the existing perch, and then make an adapter that'll space it out a little bit. I think I'll try that first, since it's free minus an hour or two of my time.

 

[gasgasman]

You may be able to grind some material off the m/c where it hits the handle bar.

 

[Neil E.]

Would a shorter lever from a GG trials bike let you move the master back outward? I shortened my stock levers to clear a tighter curve on my barkbusters, two fingers is all is use for clutch or brake.

 

[Zman]

You may be able to grind some material off the m/c where it hits the handle bar.

The casting should have enough meat in it to clearance it to the bar. I suppose you could also add a feeler gauge between the master and the bar to space it away a little but you will probably need to widen the perch to make extra room.

 

[Thompo]

I have same issue with the renthal twinwall bars that came on mine.

I shaved a little off the body of the MC to allow a few extra deg of rotation.
The "long" AJP MC found on trials bikes is slightly narrower but I couldn't find a choke mount cap for one. Other issue you may run into is the hose fouling the bar because the MC body is longer.