Clutch master issue

Bulgas

New member
Hi folks, my 2004 EC200 has what I assume is the same hydraulically actuated clutch that they all have. I had the line off while the engine was out of the frame. Now I want to bleed it and I can't get it to move any fluid. I poured DOT 4 in to the reservoir on the handlebars and with the banjo fitting on the slave loose, I pumped the lever many,many times. No fluid seems to be moving out of the reservoir. I tapped it gently with a hammer, hoping to dislodge any air bubbles that may have been causing a problem, but to no avail.:confused: What does this panel of experts recommend?
 
Ahh usual hydraulic drama. Trapped air still there.

Try loosen the top banjo with a rag around it. Pull lever & nip up the banjo all in one movement, let go of lever. repeat. Then bleed down low again.
 
I picked up a brake bleeder today. I used to have one that worked nicely. It was lost in a fire. It's one of those pistol grip vacuum pump affairs with a reservoir to catch the fluid. I'll try it tomorrow. I tried cracking the fitting on the master at the lever while pulling the lever. Then re-tightening the fitting before letting the lever out. Didn't seem to work. Assuming everything is in good order the bleeder should do the trick.
 
Still having trouble.

I'm getting nowhere with this clutch! I have tried using a brake bleeder and the level of fluid in the reservoir never goes down. :confused:. I got a rebuild kit from Hall's and I have installed that. I still can't fluid to go down from the reservoir. I have gotten a few air bubbles to appear, but nothing is moving otherwise. I've now wasted an obscene amount of time on this small matter and I have a lot of other things that need my attention. Can anyone tell me the procedure for starting from scratch. At this point, the line is empty and there is very little fluid in the slave. I have been unable to figure out what is wrong or what I need to do differently in order to get fluid down to the slave and bleed the remaining air out. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Get a syringe from the vets and put a piece of hose on it, place the hose on the slave cylinder and use the syringe to pump fluid in from the bottom. Make sure the master cylinder lever is completely unadjusted (you may find you over adjusted it in the past, if the piston cannot return fully, it may not be opening the hole in the base of the reservoir allowing fresh fluid in, and air bubbles out.

Once you've got even the tiniest bit of feel on the lever, lock up the slave, then pump the master, hold it in and undo the bleed nipple on the slave, then tighten it up again, then repump the master, repeat until it feels good :).
 
Thanx! I'll give it a go. I wondered about the lever being adjusted out to far and not letting the piston return. I'm going to back it out some tomorrow and see if it helps. I'm not getting any fluid to come down out of the reservoir.
 
Thanx! I'll give it a go. I wondered about the lever being adjusted out to far and not letting the piston return. I'm going to back it out some tomorrow and see if it helps. I'm not getting any fluid to come down out of the reservoir.

I recommend reverse bleeding as mentioned if you are having that much trouble getting the air out. Around here you can get a syringe (without needle obviously) at the farm store.

This is a trials based video but the procedure is really the same for proper hydraulic lever adjustment:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lh3pm3z7CdY
 
Thank you! This may very well be my problem. Mine was adjusted in until the top of the allen socket was flush with the locknut. I'll check this first thing when I get in the garage. (after I start the heater) I do appreciate the input.
 
The adjustment on the lever seems to have been the problem. The video was a big help. It is still dragging do I don't know if I need to bleed it more or if something else is the issue. The gearbox oil has been drained out for some time. I'm getting other parts of the bike together and coming back to this issue. Thanx again guys.
 
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