Clutch Not Fully Disengaging - New Lever?

[ReaptheHeat]

Just picked up a 2018 XC 250 (brand new) and noticed when I pull the clutch in till it hits my knuckles that it still slightly drags and drops the RPM. If I pull it in all the way to the bars without my fingers restricting the range of motion, it does not drag.

I have a tach meter and the difference in RPM is about 300-400 for that 1/3 inch of travel or so.


It seems the issue is that the clutch lever is not pressing the fluid in the cylinder enough to disengage the clutch fully as noticed when pulling without my fingers in the way. I noticed this was a problem on my 2012 as well and don't think this is an air in the line issue.

Is there are lever on the market that would provide more leverage at the clutch master cylinder? All I need is the lever to press the plunger in the cylinder further than the stock Magura lever.

 

[frankinberg]

I just bought an 18 ec 250 the clutch went away on my son in an enduro so I put my mini vac on it and pulled new fluid thru and it seams to work fine now maybe it had an air bubble but its good now

 

[(F5)]

Rebleed.

Also read thread about gear oils. I favour Motul Transoil Expert.

Normal Motul Transoil drags.

 

[Doc Brown]

They all do that to a certain extent, seems all is normal. Adjusting the lever further away from the bar may help.

 

[memphis2857]

Adjust the lever. There is a starwheel that can be turned out to give yourself more movement on the lever. It’s not an air issue or a clutch issue. You just need to adjust the lever to suit your riding needs


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[ReaptheHeat]

I just bought an 18 ec 250 the clutch went away on my son in an enduro so I put my mini vac on it and pulled new fluid thru and it seams to work fine now maybe it had an air bubble but its good now

I'll try bleeding it today.

By the way, what jets are you running? I bought mine from Parker Powersports and they installed a 160 main, 38 pilot, and stock needle #2. The airscrew was 6 turns out (lol). I put in a 165 main, still a little lean. I think a 168 will be good.

I'm riding CORCS this weekend if you will be there.

 

[ReaptheHeat]

Adjust the lever. There is a starwheel that can be turned out to give yourself more movement on the lever. It?s not an air issue or a clutch issue. You just need to adjust the lever to suit your riding needs


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Lever is all the way out hitting the handguards. It helps slightly, but is uncomfortable to feather the clutch in the terrain I ride for long periods.

 

[RudolfHucker]

When you bleed the clutch, unbolt the slave unit from the engine and push the piston back fully back in. I usually use a G-Cramp to hold it fully in while bleeding the circuit.

I would normally back bleed and let the slave unit hang vertically to help air bubbles back up the hose. It also helps to remove the bleed nipple and wrap it with 4 or 5 turns of PTFE tape so that you don't let air back in when you slacken it off.

Once done, leave the master cylinder cap loose, zip tie the lever all the way back to the bars and leave it overnight. Tap the hose several times from the bottom up to loosen any remaining air bubbles.

 

[frankinberg]

I live in Brighton co we put a lectron on ours but we have other gasgas bikes with kehein carbs 160 is way lean I would start with 170 m 42 pilot I like the jd blue needle works great