Crank bearings

5valve

Member
Just received stator side crank bearing.
It is double rubber protected. I guess there is no need to remove rubber, as it is self lubricated.

Had bad experience using non oem, but quality branded C4 bearing on stator side. Crank had play in bearing from day 1. Cases and crank are not worn.

Will use regular branded C3 on clutch side, as previous showed no deterioration.
Just dont know if rubber protection should be left or not.
As I remember, only one side was protected, but dont know which:confused:, towards chamber or gearbox.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190225_182045.jpg
    IMG_20190225_182045.jpg
    113.1 KB · Views: 17
Pull em all out. Premix does the lube and no point shrouding it from any side. Seals are for wheels.
 
Is that the correct bearing?

I am really surprised that a manufacturer would supply a sealed bearing for use on a crank as I would expect the seal to melt and cause all kinds of problems in the combustion area.
 
Its oem gg ordered bearing.
When i removed original bearing, it had protection installed.
I guess if you get accidental debris like sand inside it does offer some protection.
But will remove.
 
GG used sealed bearings for some model years, at least in my son's '08 300. One bearing failed, and when I opened the engine, I found sealed bearings in both sides of the crank. I replaced them with open bearings and the engine has been running happily ever after.
 
My 2010 ran on sealed bearing until I did the bottom end out of preventative maintenance at 260hrs. They had dried out a bit but weren't failing.. I put the new ones in with the seals removed.
Hmm, my '11 is now at 280 hours. I guess I better start collecting parts for a rebuild.
 
Back
Top