Cylinder Base nuts

[Marki]

Hi Guys.
I've searched and found hints but can someone explain exactally how I tighten up the nuts on the base of the cylinder or point me to the right post?

What I have read suggests that they are 13mm nuts but mine are 14mm (1998 250). Is that correct? Fiche just lists as M10.

 

[Jakobi]

Can't get a socket on them so have to use a good ring spanner. You might not have clearance particularly around the ones inside the powervalves so you may have to grind some of the meat off the outer edges of the spanner. As for torquing to spec I have no idea. You can crunch some numbers to work out the correct specs using an extension etc with your torque wrench.

I'll probably get cained for it, but I just do them up by hand. You can always practice torquing something else a bit to get the feel for how much you're looking at too.

 

[Marki]

Torque would not be a problem if I could actually get a spanner on there! I suspect that the wrong ones have been fitted at some point which is the reason why I'm struggling. I have ground a spanner down to just a couple of millimetre thick on the sidewalls and there just isn't the room to turn the nut.

 

[Jakobi]

Someone must have had something to put them on there though. How very strange.

If its really that tight maybe you can use the dremel and cut a lip into the side of the nut and use something to punch it off.

 

[Marki]

I brought the bike as a project and the cylinder was already off. I've been searching and it appears that I can get M10 with 13mm across the flats as opposed to the standard 14mm, nearly 1gbp ($1.60) each! .

 

[lonetree]

i just had my cylinder off the other day and im sure they were 13mm nuts, and i reckon you would have heaps of problems with 14mm in there, the 13's are bad enough.
couldnt you just go buy some high tensile nuts from a bolt shop?

 

[Marki]

If only it was that simple! I'll have to order some and wait.

 

[Jakobi]

Where abouts are you located that you'd have to order them in?

Just about anywhere in Aus we could head down to the local fastener store and grab a handfull.

I can sneak in the shed tomorrow and drop a 13mm ring end over my bike if you need us to confirm it for you, but pretty certain mine are 13's from memory too.

 

[eff]

I cut a 13mm spanner and welded it to a 3/8 drive socket and use it on my torque wrench. Note that it needs to be used at 90? for the torque reading to be correct without computing the adjustment for the extra length.

 

[GMP]

I do the same thing, but just use a 13m/15mm box wrencs, 13mm side ground down to fit, and drive the 15mm side with a 15mm hex driver on a torque wrench.

 

[Marki]

I live in the Peak District in the UK. We generally do not have shops that sell nuts and bolts other than engineering suppliers that only open Monday to Friday. These nuts are definately 14mm so I'm going to order some from Gas Gas Uk.

 

[Jakobi]

Wait till Monday and hit the engineering shop Quicker and most likely cheaper than genuine too.

 

[GasGas]

I cut a 13mm spanner and welded it to a 3/8 drive socket and use it on my torque wrench. Note that it needs to be used at 90? for the torque reading to be correct without computing the adjustment for the extra length.

Would you not still be getting extra torque from the extra length of the wrench?

 

[pscook]

Would you not still be getting extra torque from the extra length of the wrench?

90 degrees to the wrench provides neutral leverage and negates any length.

http://www.finishing.com/118/94_crows_foot_torque.shtml (scroll down a bit)

If the crowsfoot is put on at a 90? angle and not at the end increasing the length, it will not effectively change the torque value. The overall length of the lever will be the same for the applied force.

For a 13mm nut I used a short combination box wrench with the box on the nut and the open end facing out, then put a 1/2" drive torque wrench at 90 degrees to the wrench/spanner in the open end. 13mm = 1/2" (enough for this). Very simple and it worked.

 

[GasGas]

Here is a handy tool. And your 90 degree theory works out too. http://cncexpo.com/TorqueAdapter.aspx

 

[Rabbitist]

My 2000 250 had 14 nuts on the outside and 13 either side of the power valve flappers so just check they are all the same size..

 

[Simmo737]

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0380/

http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0134/

All your motion pro dreams come true

 

[PEB]

I must admit I never worry about torque values. Little bolts get tightened with a 1/4 drive, medium with a 3/8 or box wrench, big ones 1/2 drive or as tight as I can get with the big box wrench. I am happy if I remember to tighten all of them.

 

[Jakobi]

Thats my theory too. The right tool usually gets you around the right figure. I'm not overly heavy handed (read weak as piss) so generally end up a little under the torque spec.

I still have all the tools for the more important things though.. 4T engine internals!

 

[noobi]

Theres a video somewhere on the site about an Aussie guy giving an instructional video on how to change the oil and filter on a road bike. After many humorous mechanic 'techniques' he says something along the lines of ' tighten it to, "its not going to fall out" Nm of torque'.

EDIT found it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ft1IkFZkJts&feature=player_embedded