did anyone ever get the Sach's forks to work?

lonetree

New member
got 2 stock sets.
looking for compression stacks to try, i find the standard too harsh on the smaller,square hits yet too soft on the big ones.
anyone got some stacks i could try, prefer to use the standard shims if possible.
any other tips or tricks to try?
cheers.
 
Sounds like you need to head up here again Tyson! I think I have the stock stacks listed somewhere, but from memory the main issue was in the mid valve, and those carts are a pain to open. I made up a tool out of PVC and it didn't hold up to the task. Need to get the right one.
 
Cartridge holding tool, rap the join of the cart harshly with a hammer a few times and then a pair of stilsons (plumbers wrench) works a treat. I had a tool made up for my '11 but when I serviced a mates '10 forks the cart caps are different so out came the stilsons.
 
mid valve?
cartridge?
o dear, out of my depth again......
I've managed to pull apart the comp valve (base stack maybe) and its taken me 6 months to do that, give me a break.........
might be time to organise a trip to cairns.... lol jakobi.
 
Thats a bit crude Nath, but I can see it working + a good amount of heat. Gasser Neil machined me up a beaut set of clamps with various sizes!

Tyson, so once you rattle the base valve out (comp stack) the cartridge is the other part that it threads into which will slide out the top of the fork. The damper rod runs inside this and on the end has another piston with your rebound and mid valve comp. As Nathan said, you need a method to hold the cart without crushing it or deforming it while you use an appropriate tool to turn the top (castle nut) out.
 
Crude yes, but it worked a treat and didn't mark the spring lands one bit.
As for the rapping it with a hammer, that was shown to me by Terry Hay himself. He explained that loctite is similar to glass and by 'smashing' it you take away all it's strength. Dunno it worked :-)
 
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do they open where the texta is pointing?

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Right, so im having trouble getting the cartridges apart. i have limited tools....
tried heat gun and pliers on castle nut.... after hitting solidly a few times at joint...... (as per n green and jakobi's methods mixed, maybe)...
still no joy.
cant hold the cartridge solidly......
need a good pipe clamp for bottom half and the right tube spanner type tool for the top half i think.....
can anyone post up any DIY solutions.... the tube spanner i know how to make just a matter of finding a 300mmx34mm bit of pipe, bit of hacksaw work.....
pipe clamp: im thinking a bit of wood, 33mm hole drilled and the block of wood split through the hole, coupla screws...... like a plumbers pipe clamp, is that the idea?
anyone go any pics of a "cart holder"
 
You can make a nice cart holder out of a piece of hard wood. Drill to the desired size and cut in half. Sand/shave a bit of the face of each to get a good lock down. Make sure both the clamp and components are clean of oil before starting for max grip.

Right tools make the job easy, but even then it took a few goes at heating and applying force even to get a set of WP ones apart a few days back. Working with soft materials and loctite is a load of fun.
 
I made a holding tool out of pvc pipe, i would start with this because it is more likely to break before damaging the cartridge




i drilled a hole through the top and fit a steel bar through it to hold it.
I have never used it to separate the cartridges (because i have a track record of breaking bits!), but have used it for loosening the lower nut and am pretty sure it will be able to take a fair amount of force
 
thanks guys, thats exactly what i was thinking. have to find a way to drill a 33mm hole.
gonna do a little base valve mix up, and put back together, until i make the tools.
 
PVC won't break the cart open for the first time. Not a chance. Sachs invented a new type of super loctite when they put their carts together I'm sure of it. Needless to say you don't need to use loctite upon putting it back together.

See my DBW post for my answer..
 
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