Just bought a fantastic 07 ec300. I don't think I can say anything about this bike that hasn't already been said. I do want to protect my investment so please tell me what you think of this. Do I really need to shell out $75 for Flatland rad guards when I can buy some from MSR for $28? If so, why? And do I really need an LTR impeller? The rest of the bike seems to be guarded up very well. Anything else I should address? Thanks...
Do I really need this stuff?
- Thread starter thelonius
- Start date
Boomhauer
New member
In my opinion you get what you pay for. Spend the extra $$$$ for the better products that are out there. I did not think Flatland had guards for the 07's yet?
Yes get the LTR impeller. Over time or one major over heat on the stock plastic one could in the long run cost you more $$$$ to repair the engine.
JMO
Yes get the LTR impeller. Over time or one major over heat on the stock plastic one could in the long run cost you more $$$$ to repair the engine.
JMO
Rick
New member
Take it from a guy how had to buy a right side radiator $$$.$$. I really don't think a guard would have saved it since it was crushed down to about 2 inches in the center...No, I still don't run rad guards. If I had, then I would have had to replace the radiator and guard.....which I would have had to buy another pair. I do not run a aluminum water pump impeller, the coolant recovery tank does it's job.
I would like to have a TM Design Works chian guide...but the stock GasGas has taken a beating and I have NEVER lost a chain, plus there easy to rebuild and low cost.
A skid plate, that is a no brainer, all the other stuff.......I would rather keep fresh S-12's on the bike....Just my .02
I would like to have a TM Design Works chian guide...but the stock GasGas has taken a beating and I have NEVER lost a chain, plus there easy to rebuild and low cost.
A skid plate, that is a no brainer, all the other stuff.......I would rather keep fresh S-12's on the bike....Just my .02
barkeater
New member
I think the armor you get for your bike should depend on the type of terrain you ride.
If you ride lots of open, muddy terrain, I'd stay away from rad guards. If you ride in the tight woods, a rad guard will keep a small miscalculation or unseen branch from turining into a big mess. They won't keep you from pop-canning the rad, but will prevent a small whack or pointy stick from ending your day. ANY rad guard will collect mud and restrict your air flow - $100 or $25. Something to keep in mind.
Handguards are not optional for me up here in the Minnesota woods.
I also will not ride a bike without a Scotts damper - but it's a personal preference.
If you cross a lot of logs or rocks, a skid plate would be a good investment. I've seen lots of flat frame rails under the motor. If you don't encounter those types of obsticals, all they do is make it a pain to change oil and add extra weight to the bike.
Pipe guards are more for show than anything. If you hit any pipe hard enough, it will flatten - no matter how good or expensive the guard.
The impeller is a peace of mind thing. I have one after seeing what happens to the stock plastic impeller. I have also switched to waterless coolant.
You have to be prepaired for the type of terrain you will ride and your riding style and protect the bike accordingly. Again, if you ride a lot of fast, open terrain, you don't need much - if you bulldog new trail through tight brush or rocks, you'll want some armor.
If you ride lots of open, muddy terrain, I'd stay away from rad guards. If you ride in the tight woods, a rad guard will keep a small miscalculation or unseen branch from turining into a big mess. They won't keep you from pop-canning the rad, but will prevent a small whack or pointy stick from ending your day. ANY rad guard will collect mud and restrict your air flow - $100 or $25. Something to keep in mind.
Handguards are not optional for me up here in the Minnesota woods.
I also will not ride a bike without a Scotts damper - but it's a personal preference.
If you cross a lot of logs or rocks, a skid plate would be a good investment. I've seen lots of flat frame rails under the motor. If you don't encounter those types of obsticals, all they do is make it a pain to change oil and add extra weight to the bike.
Pipe guards are more for show than anything. If you hit any pipe hard enough, it will flatten - no matter how good or expensive the guard.
The impeller is a peace of mind thing. I have one after seeing what happens to the stock plastic impeller. I have also switched to waterless coolant.
You have to be prepaired for the type of terrain you will ride and your riding style and protect the bike accordingly. Again, if you ride a lot of fast, open terrain, you don't need much - if you bulldog new trail through tight brush or rocks, you'll want some armor.
MattR
Super Moderator
Are the newer bikes using steel exhaust spigots? If not, LTR made steel versions. The earlier bikes had cast aluminum spigots. A minor hit on the exhaust would crack these cast aluminum versions. I believe GG switch to steel on the recent models ('06+ I think). Anyways, just thought that I would pass that along.
SpeedyManiac
New member
Want some radiator guards that actually protect the bike? Try the Force Accessories guards. These suckers are way better than the Flatland guards. Actually, they're one of the best guards on the market, comparable to Bulletproof Designs guards but a little less expensive. www.forceaccessories.com.au
I would recommend the LTR impeller. It does help, though overheating has never really been an issue on these bikes.
I would recommend the LTR impeller. It does help, though overheating has never really been an issue on these bikes.
GMP
Active member
The Force guards seem nice but fit a little close to the front of the rad (on Huskys anyway). MSRs I've seen look like junk. The CRDs look good, just need a grille added for front protection. The Flatlands don't fit the '07s well, but I modified mine for strength and fit and added GP braces. This turned out well and I'd do it again. I'd like to see one of the Bulletproof guards take a hit from the front from a branch of heavy stick, or a lateral hit from a rock behind the minimal side coverage. I'm still not sold on those for $200 and no triangulation in mounting.
My '07 250 had a plastic impeller. Although these bikes are very heat tolerant and boil resistant, its not a bad idea to get rid of the plastic if you ride where the bike will get hotter than average. Scrap the expansion tank and run a crossover hose between the tank and frame (piece of EFI fuel line).
The exhaust spigot is steel, no problems.
The Hyde combo is the best choice IMO. Because the pipe section is part of the plate and frame mounted, most of the force in a hit is dissipated there rather than bending the pipe.
I like and use the LTR chain guide holder. The stocker is good, and can move and bend back, but will still bend if you hit a rock hard and can derail the chain. The LTR holder with the Honda guide just flexes slightly as it slides over the rocks. Occasionally you will bend a bolt in the guide but it retains shape and never seems to wear out.
Either weld (don't bolt) a generic shark fin rotor guard to the caliper carrier or get the Scotts unit. You WILL bend a rotor without one if your a rock crawler.
After the holidays I will tear my bike down for maintanence and photo these parts after a season of rock abuse. You can judge for yourselves.
My '07 250 had a plastic impeller. Although these bikes are very heat tolerant and boil resistant, its not a bad idea to get rid of the plastic if you ride where the bike will get hotter than average. Scrap the expansion tank and run a crossover hose between the tank and frame (piece of EFI fuel line).
The exhaust spigot is steel, no problems.
The Hyde combo is the best choice IMO. Because the pipe section is part of the plate and frame mounted, most of the force in a hit is dissipated there rather than bending the pipe.
I like and use the LTR chain guide holder. The stocker is good, and can move and bend back, but will still bend if you hit a rock hard and can derail the chain. The LTR holder with the Honda guide just flexes slightly as it slides over the rocks. Occasionally you will bend a bolt in the guide but it retains shape and never seems to wear out.
Either weld (don't bolt) a generic shark fin rotor guard to the caliper carrier or get the Scotts unit. You WILL bend a rotor without one if your a rock crawler.
After the holidays I will tear my bike down for maintanence and photo these parts after a season of rock abuse. You can judge for yourselves.
SpeedyManiac
New member
The force guards fit my 07 perfectly and have built in braces. For the bulletproof designs guards, it is very easy to add a brace going back to the frame (this is why I prefer perimeter frames), adding triangulation and lots of support. I have a similar system on my 01 EC200 and it is bomb proof.
SpeedyManiac
New member
Should be a BR8ES or BR8EIX, I think.
DonMoto
New member
Thelonius,
BR8ES or B8ES, the only difference is the "R" it mean resustant, that spark plug will last more in any case of having the bike too reach or not. Best way to find out if your bike is running well, run on it, then look at the ceramic of the plug, if it is brown you doing well, if it is gray you need to fix up your jetting.
Many spark plugs work well, just understand the meaning of the numbers and letters, you can contact the manufacture byu email or look in www.en.wikipedia.org, or google it.
You will find funcy plugs, with gold, silver, etc... starters, some very expensive some other not that much.
Good luck, for finding the best for you, the once you are using are fine, fits most bikes.
Cheers,
Gus
BR8ES or B8ES, the only difference is the "R" it mean resustant, that spark plug will last more in any case of having the bike too reach or not. Best way to find out if your bike is running well, run on it, then look at the ceramic of the plug, if it is brown you doing well, if it is gray you need to fix up your jetting.
Many spark plugs work well, just understand the meaning of the numbers and letters, you can contact the manufacture byu email or look in www.en.wikipedia.org, or google it.
You will find funcy plugs, with gold, silver, etc... starters, some very expensive some other not that much.
Good luck, for finding the best for you, the once you are using are fine, fits most bikes.
Cheers,
Gus
DonMoto
New member
Hello Telenius,
Sorry on my post, mix terms, gray is the right color you looking in your spark plug, I guess writing with some beer in me make me change the whole thing , any way I will look at my library and post lately some websites that contain more informacion,
Cheers,
Gus
Sorry on my post, mix terms, gray is the right color you looking in your spark plug, I guess writing with some beer in me make me change the whole thing , any way I will look at my library and post lately some websites that contain more informacion, Cheers,
Gus
DonMoto
New member
Thelonius,
OK. Here some information you can look at:
Here you will find information on performance http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark.asp , then you can understand letters and numbers on this site that have explanation for mayor brands http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/pages/technical/spark_plugs_technical.htm , and finally here you will fine what you are looking for, it is very easy to get even for your grandpa bultaco http://www.sparkplugs.com/default.asp?KID=2518 , here you will be able to look plugs for any application you want.
quick answer are these:
EC 250, I guess is the one you have, 1997-2003 NGK B8EGV, 2004-2005 NGK BR8EIX, BR8EG.
Cheers,
Gus
OK. Here some information you can look at:
Here you will find information on performance http://www.centuryperformance.com/spark.asp , then you can understand letters and numbers on this site that have explanation for mayor brands http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/pages/technical/spark_plugs_technical.htm , and finally here you will fine what you are looking for, it is very easy to get even for your grandpa bultaco http://www.sparkplugs.com/default.asp?KID=2518 , here you will be able to look plugs for any application you want.
quick answer are these:
EC 250, I guess is the one you have, 1997-2003 NGK B8EGV, 2004-2005 NGK BR8EIX, BR8EG.
Cheers,
Gus
