e-start quit

bluespark

New member
Hey all, I am the happy new owner of a 2011 EC 300 e that I brought home yesterday. I was going over the bike checking things out and just looking it over. The bike started on the 1st kick when the owner showed it to me, and the e-start worked great several times after that while I was going over it.

The PO had taken off the headlight and handlebar switch cluster. I went to re-install the head light and found several scenarios. I Plugged in the round connector on the back of the headlight and then connected one of two available two pin connectors into the other wire coming from the headlight assembly. When I plugged in the first 2-pin connector the headlight came on with the bike not running. I then tried the other connector and the HL did not come on, so I tried to start the bike to see if it illuminated.

At this point I hit the button and the starter made no noise at all. I unplugged the 2-pin connector and still no starter movement/noise. Battery still showed ~13v. I then kick started it, but this took 10 or so kicks.

I have not had time to look at the digital manual that came with the bike or any associated wiring diagrams, but was hoping someone here could shed some light on this. I am sure its something simple like a fuse, but I would like to get it fixed so I can try out my new ride this weekend!
 
Ok, there is a 10amp fuse back in or on the side of the airbox near the relay. You have blown that fuse, so make sure you don't have anything hooked up incorrectly then replace the fuse and you will be good to go!
 
I've always wanted to have a go with a trials tire, but I keep purchasing knobbies.

Give it a go and let me know what you think? I believe there are certain situations where they really shine, and others that they don't do so well.. I think I'd struggle with the extra grip.. I'm so used to locking, dragging, and spinning the back wheel to assist in pointing the bike where I want to go. Bet it'd be unstoppable on a rocky and rooty goat trail though.
 
I've been running TTs long before they were fasionable, when only the Michelin X-11s and IRCs were available. Some of the WA state guys from the old Smackover site turned me on to these and the WA woods are a lot like our northern woods when it rains. The subject has been beaten to death for years. In short though they rely on adhesion to hook up, and will hook up on anything solid wet or dry. Its a different ride that requires a style change, especially cornering and throttle controll. When its really nasty and speeds are lower, its the bomb. I run them all the time locally here for traction and to save $$ on trashed knobbys. FWIW, the proper knobby run Tubliss @< 10 PSI is almost as effective with regard to absolute traction and more versitle.
 
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