EC300 Clutch

B

BULTACOBRIS

New member
I have a new (350kms) ec300 2008 - my clutch does not engage when the motor is not running - ie. put in gear, pull clutch in and try to push bike.
Is this normal please? some dealers have said yes and others are not sure.
Also the bike is very hard to find neutral when warmed up. lever just drops into first or second with only the slightist movement to it.
i have noticed a rattling sound over large bumps also.
Any comments please
 
If your idle speed is set too high, it will be alsmost impossible to select neutral with engine running. Also, make sure your clutch is properly bled - ie that you have fluid in your reservoir and no air in system

Also try a different gearbox oil as some oils temd to cause the clutch to drag.

I have been using this oil, from Ipone, a french company. It is the best oil I have used in my Gasgas transmission so far. No clutch 'groan' and very very slick gearchanges.



box_x_trem.jpg
 
2t?

Is that the same type of oil that you would mix for gas, or is "gearbox oil" different on a 2t? Sorry for the threadjack... I am trying to fix my clutch as well and this is my first 2 stroke!

Joseph
 
No, premix oil and gear box oil are two different things. I've found that in my GG ECs(98 and 03) the best oil I've tried was Rotella 15/40 (blue jug, synthetic) It is not MC specific but does work very well in reducing clutch drag. I made sure to change often,ie,every race or every three rides or so. For some reason this same oil DID NOT work well on my KTM 300XC. I used Maxima for that which ,again, worked very well. There used to be lots of posts on this site about gear oils,try a good search
 
Oh forgot the rattling...not really enough info. With a new bike, you should check all bolts, locktite and torque to spec. One famous source is needing rvt silicone around the exhaust spigot.
 
I have had good luck with Rotella 5w-40 also. Golden Spectro gear oil is another favorite. Synthetic ATF works as well. One other thing to check is the throw adjustment on the clutch lever, turn it in to get all the activation possible. I had the same no clutch release syndrome on my XC250 until I turned that adjuster in as far as it would go.
 
Don't laugh but GM (General Motors) Auto-Trak II transfer case lube makes an outstanding clutch/tranny oil. I learned about this Adrian Lewis for my Montesa trials bike. I now use it in my EC300 and 200xc-w.
 
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Thanks
operation of the clutch is great. clutch has no drag - put into first and bike does not want to creep at all and clutch is very responsive to slightist release of lever (idle does decrease though when put into gear) clutch was bled by dealer before last ride.
is there any comment on the clutch not enagaging when engine is off - is anyone elses the same please? (pain in the butt if engine stalls on big slippery downhills)
have used silkolene and the GRO oil so far
did pull bike to pieces when new (greased and checked nuts/bolts/screws) rattle sounds like a ball bearing in a spray can - same rattle when taking off in second gear with not enough revs (if you what i mean)
 
My clutch does fail to disengage at times, making it hard to start in gear, or roll around with the clutch lever in, while in gear. Adjusting the lever travel helped the most. Second comes a suitable fluid.


As to the BBs rattling around sound, are you using a suitablely high test of fuel? Sounds like it might be pre-ignition, or detonation. If fuel is OK, has the timing been checked, it may be too advanced. It could be lots of things, but that is one thing it may be.
 
Are you sure it is not the chain rattling as I thought the same when I first got my GG until I realised it was the chain.
Same sound exactly, from what you described anyway.
Cheers Mark:)
 
1/ Using 98 ron fuel with motorex @ 50:1 - carb is a bit rich and will be getting a needle and jet kit soon - hope it doesn't take away the down low.
bike runs perfect and i like the power delivery from stock.

2/ i had thoughts about the chain rattling - but it does it under power and seems to come from below or forward of me.(even thought about fork internals)
3/ PV? could be also - around the same area.

anyone else with the clutch not engaging when not running? my bike cannot be pushed while in gear with motor off.
only have one month warranty left - if it's not normal, would like to get it sorted.

thanks all
 
After the ride today,Where I ran out of fuel and pushed the bike 5 km's home in the rain, I still have a rattle.
It seems to be from the cylinder or the exhaust and even seems to be coming from the front wheel or brake as if something is clipping the rim or spokes which it isn't.
Not sure exactly what it is .
I also have very loud clutch noise which disappears once clutch ids in leaving a knocking sound still in the motor.
Is this normal, are gasser motors fairly noisy and knocky if that is a word?
Cheers Mark
 
Brake pads or the brake caliper can rattle.
If the noise goes away when aplying the brake gently, then caliper/pads are the problem.

//
 
beautiful will check that.... it seems to be coming from that area.
What is the fix if it is or isn't there one or doesn't it matter?
Cheers Mark
 
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