Fork bleeders for 2010 48mm's

Easiest solution is to leave the stock 3mm screws in and then drill and tap for a 4mm (KTM) or 5mm (KYB, Showa) bleeder. There is another thread on here showing the finished product.

BTW, 2011 Sachs caps come with 5mm bleeder screws.
 
It will only cost you about $15 at your local hardware store to purchase a metric 5x.8 tap and a #19 drill bit to install Showa/KYB bleeders in you 2010 caps. I drilled out the eisting 3mm screw hole, the job is super easy to do.
 
So the type of bleeders make a big difference...I know I probably sounds stupid for asking...but I didn't realize there was that much difference.
 
If the cap is easy to remove it would be simple to tap a new hole or just re-tap the existing one. The STR bleeders are pricey compared to others, but they do offer the lowest profile I have seen and work really well.

I have no idea what the deal is, but I've read about a small ball bearing falling into the forks from a cap removal. I've seen pictures of the bearing, but not sure if that is a real concern or just a brain-fart on someone's part. I'd check into it first if no one here can advise.
 
Just my opinion, why do you need bleeders? I don't have any on my 45 shivers and have never felt the need. Is air really getting in there, if so, why is no oil coming out? If the air that is in there expands when it gets hot, and you let it out through your bleeders, when the forks cool down is there now less air or maybe a vacuum? Is that desirable? I am yet to be convinced of the merits of bleeders:)
 
Air gets past the seals from the constant movement of the forks.
My 50mm 'zokes never got air in them.:confused:
My 2011 45mm forks will get air in them just sitting in the garage.:confused:
 
The air in your forks is like a shock in itself. When you compress the fork springs and force oil through passages and past shims you also have to compress the volume of air in there. When they heat up and the air expands there is more pressure and resistance affecting the performance. It may be obvious or subtle, but it does affect performace. I've gotten in the habit of hitting my bleeders before every ride and at stops when I remember so they equalize with atmosphere. Sometime they piss just a skosh of air and others as much as a couple seconds on really hot days. It doesn't have to be hot out for them to heat up internally. Every fork I've had will expand just setting around when its warm, outside or in the garage.
 
mrkartoom said:
The STR bleeders are pricey compared to others, but they do offer the lowest profile I have seen and work really well.

I have no idea what the deal is, but I've read about a small ball bearing falling into the forks from a cap removal. I've seen pictures of the bearing, but not sure if that is a real concern or just a brain-fart on someone's part. I'd check into it first if no one here can advise.
Click to expand...

The ball bearing was related to the preload adjustment on 2009 and some 2010 Race Sachs forks - not an issue on the standard EC/XC forks.

Regarding the STRs - you get what you pay for. I was trying to develop tooling to make the proper O-ring chamber in the fork cap to seal the bleeder, and the guys at STR know their stuff. (Ultimately the volume was too low to justify.)
 
mrkartoom said:
The air in your forks is like a shock in itself. When you compress the fork springs and force oil through passages and past shims you also have to compress the volume of air in there. When they heat up and the air expands there is more pressure and resistance affecting the performance. It may be obvious or subtle, but it does affect performace. I've gotten in the habit of hitting my bleeders before every ride and at stops when I remember so they equalize with atmosphere. Sometime they piss just a skosh of air and others as much as a couple seconds on really hot days. It doesn't have to be hot out for them to heat up internally. Every fork I've had will expand just setting around when its warm, outside or in the garage.
Click to expand...

Sure, but what happens when they cool down. Does air get sucked back in through the seals? My seals do not leak a drop of oil......
 
mrkartoom said:
The air in your forks is like a shock in itself. When you compress the fork springs and force oil through passages and past shims you also have to compress the volume of air in there. When they heat up and the air expands there is more pressure and resistance affecting the performance. It may be obvious or subtle, but it does affect performace. I've gotten in the habit of hitting my bleeders before every ride and at stops when I remember so they equalize with atmosphere. Sometime they piss just a skosh of air and others as much as a couple seconds on really hot days. It doesn't have to be hot out for them to heat up internally. Every fork I've had will expand just setting around when its warm, outside or in the garage.
Click to expand...

fwiw i had read to bleed the forks only when fully extended(as on the stand).to bleed at ride height will make a vacuum the first time the forks extend(thus adding air)
 
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