HELP NEEDED!!! Clutch issue

[GGEC]

Hi I'm new to the forum.

I have a issue with my GG EC200 ( 2006 )

Clutch was dragging bad and because I bought it not long ago I thought I will change the clutch and a new basket just because it looked a bit worn.

I also changed the clutch line to a braided one and change fluid because not sure how long it was last serviced.

Clutch still drags but also having trouble bleeding clutch I have hardly any pressure and I've used a vacuum line to draw air out but still no pressure on lever.


Thanks

 

[Zman]

1. Did you use DOT4 or mineral oil in the clutch cylinder? The wrong fluid will cause internal leaking.
2. you could have air in the clutch master cylinder.
3. What clutch plates did you use? (some of the aftermarket pates are thicker than stock and cause drag.)

 

[(F5)]

Minor drag can be cured with different oil. In my bike Motul Transoil (std) drags enough not to be able to kick in gear. But the Transoil Expert version is fine..

 

[Mikeyx]

First check the adjuster screw position on the clutch lever. Wind it fully in and try if it helps.

 

[GGEC]

Hi guys thanks for the reply much appreciated.

I do use MOTUL mineral oil so I will try the other version thanks (F5).

I adjusted the screw also whilst trying other things but with no difference Thanks Mikeyx.

Man I have used Motul mineral oil but i will try other version like ( F5 ) said. I have DP clutch kit which was supplied by a GASGAS dealership, could these be the issue? the clutch was dragging before I changed it?

I tried again tonight to bleed the system I had constant air bubbles coming out even with the use of the vacuum bleeder. I also tried the old fashion way of bleeding only using the master open/closing the nipple but still no luck.

I also changed the seals on the slave (bottom slave) to be sure it wasn't leaking through but still no luck.

anymore ideas guys I would appreciate it.

Thanks

 

[Greatdane]

I used a syringe and pushed fluid up from the bleeder to the master. Worked very well.

 

[(F5)]

Have a dig through this post which has measurements

http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9383&highlight=Cr250

 

[Pygmygod]

If you're bleeding put some plumbers teflon tape around the nipples otherwise it can drag in a little bit of air through the loose threads and never bleeds the air out cause it keeps getting more in!

 

[GGEC]

All sorted!!!

Hi guys thank you everyone that helped me out, its all sorted now.

When rebuilding the master a small part of the seal has come off (perhaps rolled on itself inside the bore) and blocked the port hole, so it would pump but wouldn't return. The new rebuild kit seems to be way too tight to be the correct one so I'm going to speak to the supplier to confirm it was right.

For now I have used the old plunger and it has worked a treat after bleeding the line to slave first then bleed the master after connecting it together then bleed the whole system, bit of a hassle way of doing things but I wanted to be sure it was going through correctly.

I also replaced the washer on the thrust bearing with a 2mm spacer to bring the hub closer which has helped a lot. Recommending doing this. It basically takes up the 1mm-1.5mm slack so the clutch is touching where as before it would have to take that slack first before pushing clutch springs.

 

[Doc Brown]

I also replaced the washer on the thrust bearing with a 2mm spacer to bring the hub closer which has helped a lot. Recommending doing this. It basically takes up the 1mm-1.5mm slack so the clutch is touching where as before it would have to take that slack first before pushing clutch springs.

By chance I saw this and I am not sure if I understood what you really did. Can you help me understanding where you put the spacer in and how thick was the washer on the thrust bearing?