how to bleed clutch

[austin.s24]

I have an 05 EC250, and the clutch hasn't been engaging properly. i'm going to start by bleedind the hydraulic system, but am a little confused how to.
Thanks for any help!

 

[twowheels]

I have an 05 EC250, and the clutch hasn't been engaging properly. i'm going to start by bleedind the hydraulic system, but am a little confused how to.
Thanks for any help!

The best way is to force fluid from the slave cylinder (down by the countershaft) up to the reservoir at the handlebar.

Start by cleaning the slave and bleeder screw real well, and move the bar and master so that the reservoir is mostly flat. You'll be burping fluid out of the reservoir, so drop a pail or catch pan below it for the old fluid.

Fill a large syringe with the appropriate fluid (ATF, mineral oil, DOT3/4) as indicated on the reservoir cap. Attach a short length of tube or fuel line (sized to fit the bleeder screw) to the syringe, then squeeze the plunger to fill the line.

Attach the line to the bleeder screw and crack the screw open. Slowly depress the plunger and force the old fluid (and any air) up the line. Feather the clutch lever enough to open the port to the reservoir and check for bubbles as the fluid fills it. Drain the reservoir and continue to squeeze new fluid in from the bottom until it appears (bubble-free) at the reservoir.

Close the bleeder screw, pull off the line, make sure you have the correct level in the reservoir, put the cap back on, and squeeze the lever to your hearts content. As long as your seals are good, you should have fully restored your clutch pull.

Don't forget to properly dispose of your old brake fluid and rags, and tip your waiters and waitresses.

 

[austin.s24]

really? i was vacuming it out of the slave cylinder to force fluid in and air out like a brake line. thanks for the help!

 

[wasp4banger]

The best way is to force fluid from the slave cylinder (down by the countershaft) up to the reservoir at the handlebar.

Start by cleaning the slave and bleeder screw real well, and move the bar and master so that the reservoir is mostly flat. You'll be burping fluid out of the reservoir, so drop a pail or catch pan below it for the old fluid.

Fill a large syringe with the appropriate fluid (ATF, mineral oil, DOT3/4) as indicated on the reservoir cap. Attach a short length of tube or fuel line (sized to fit the bleeder screw) to the syringe, then squeeze the plunger to fill the line.

Attach the line to the bleeder screw and crack the screw open. Slowly depress the plunger and force the old fluid (and any air) up the line. Feather the clutch lever enough to open the port to the reservoir and check for bubbles as the fluid fills it. Drain the reservoir and continue to squeeze new fluid in from the bottom until it appears (bubble-free) at the reservoir.

Close the bleeder screw, pull off the line, make sure you have the correct level in the reservoir, put the cap back on, and squeeze the lever to your hearts content. As long as your seals are good, you should have fully restored your clutch pull.

Don't forget to properly dispose of your old brake fluid and rags, and tip your waiters and waitresses.

+1 with the injecting fluid from the bottom, by far the most sucessful way i've found. On my '06 it calls for mineral oil, not brake fluid.

 

[austin.s24]

same with the 05, it says mineral oil. i'll try i out today and see how it goes!