Idle / Slide lift screw doesn't do jack s*it
- Thread starter Kyle01
- Start date
The plastic screw with it's M5 thread is not a snug fit in the carb. The actual hole is tapered due to the casting process. If the screw comes coated with a white substance, do not remove it. This is some kind of thread filler that helps to made the screw fit properly.
If it comes as bare plastic, you might want to wrap it with teflon tape to try and make it fit better.
If it comes as bare plastic, you might want to wrap it with teflon tape to try and make it fit better.
This is what's in the carb currently-
38 pilot
#7 slide
N1EG 2nd clip
175 main
1.5 turns out
The new idle screw isn't in yet but damn, this thing won't idle unless I adjust the cable out. When I do that I can get it to idle down crazy low- seems like the pilot is right (although compared to most of you at sea level I'm a little lean)
I've got a 42 pilot. Is it worth trying?
38 pilot
#7 slide
N1EG 2nd clip
175 main
1.5 turns out
The new idle screw isn't in yet but damn, this thing won't idle unless I adjust the cable out. When I do that I can get it to idle down crazy low- seems like the pilot is right (although compared to most of you at sea level I'm a little lean)
I've got a 42 pilot. Is it worth trying?
Jakobi
Super Moderator
The N1Ex needles have extremely short straight sections, which means it doesn't take many turns on the idle adjuster screw to lift the slide up to the point that you're actually trying to idle on the needle taper.
Back the idle screw right down on a hot engine, set the AS at 1.5 turns, and change pilots until you get one that idles. OR change to a needle with a longer straight section and do the same, but will be much easier.
Back the idle screw right down on a hot engine, set the AS at 1.5 turns, and change pilots until you get one that idles. OR change to a needle with a longer straight section and do the same, but will be much easier.
Awesome advice- thanks. Can you suggest a needle that's easy to get? I've had great luck with the JD needles on other (4t) bikes- but they don't seem all that popular. I read a lot about CCK/CCM needles, there is so much info that it's overwhelming a little. I just want a good solid middle of the road needle.
I adjusted it at the throttle as I was in some nasty muddy woods and having to kick it back to life would have been a chore.
I have something similar on my gasgas and i need some advice.
1. It will idle if i screw the idle screw almost ALL the way in and i dont hit the gas.
2. The airscrew does not seem to have much effect at all.
3. When i hit the gas it revs up but takes far to long to come back down, and once it does it often cannot sustain idle anymore.
What should i do?
Got my needle (n1ec)on third notch, A 040 and a 168 at this moment. slider number 6.
would love any tips as im traveling past my gasgas shop in the morning.
1. It will idle if i screw the idle screw almost ALL the way in and i dont hit the gas.
2. The airscrew does not seem to have much effect at all.
3. When i hit the gas it revs up but takes far to long to come back down, and once it does it often cannot sustain idle anymore.
What should i do?
Got my needle (n1ec)on third notch, A 040 and a 168 at this moment. slider number 6.
would love any tips as im traveling past my gasgas shop in the morning.
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Set the float height
Back the idle screw right out
Visually set the slide to only be a mm open, or listen while lifting and dropping the slide for the sound to change. You only want the slide barely lifted.
Set the air screw at 1.5 turns
Start with a set needle diameter and pilot.
Continue to change pilots until you get the best idle.
Back the idle screw right out
Visually set the slide to only be a mm open, or listen while lifting and dropping the slide for the sound to change. You only want the slide barely lifted.
Set the air screw at 1.5 turns
Start with a set needle diameter and pilot.
Continue to change pilots until you get the best idle.
will do that. But where should i start with the pilots?
About the float level, how does it affect idle? Is it not only there to prevent flooding?
It seems like it can idle on neutral, but has harder idling when in gear. Very strange
Jakobi
Super Moderator
Its a delicate balance between the needle diameter, slide cutaway, slide height, float height, air screw, and pilot jet. They all have to work together to get the bike to start easily, not load up, provide instant throttle response, idle, and run smoothly and cleanly. There are always compromises in one area or another.
By lowering the slide you ensure you are on the needle straight, and isolate the circuits more which results in less inconsistancy.
You'll never jet around a mechanical condition such as air leaks, worn reeds, low compression, large tolerances, etc as well.
If a bike idles well in neutral but not so well in gear its usually due to a bit of clutch drag. I personally set my bikes so they idle well out of gear when hot, and stall after a few seconds in gear. Setting the idle up results in a bit of pipe bang/surge on closed throttle. Low idle, and good throttle response is what you want when riding. Easy starting too!
By lowering the slide you ensure you are on the needle straight, and isolate the circuits more which results in less inconsistancy.
You'll never jet around a mechanical condition such as air leaks, worn reeds, low compression, large tolerances, etc as well.
If a bike idles well in neutral but not so well in gear its usually due to a bit of clutch drag. I personally set my bikes so they idle well out of gear when hot, and stall after a few seconds in gear. Setting the idle up results in a bit of pipe bang/surge on closed throttle. Low idle, and good throttle response is what you want when riding. Easy starting too!
Well- my problem is solved. The plastic idle screw on mine was a little chewed up... Last time I rode it, I had a racing idle issue (when it was cold) so I started adjusting- then found the air box rubber had popped off of the carb. Wrestled that bitch back into place (what an SOB) and then went on a trail ride (where my low idle issue came up). Tried to adjust the idle screw in but it felt like it was bottomed out so I used the cable adjustment as a temporary fix.
Got my new (genuine keihin) idle screw and backed off the cable. I listened for the slide drop sound to just change, fired it up, adjusted the idle screw in as much as I needed (fresh screw really helped there) voila.
Got my new (genuine keihin) idle screw and backed off the cable. I listened for the slide drop sound to just change, fired it up, adjusted the idle screw in as much as I needed (fresh screw really helped there) voila.
