Ignitech cdi

[SpirosZ1000]

Hello everybody. Has anyone tried an ignitech cdi on a 2018 and newer model.
And my second question is what about the stock advance curve? Is there a way to have a look at it from the stock cdi or the ignitech comes already with a curve that works as a starting point?

 

[(F5)]

Hello everybody. Has anyone tried an ignitech cdi on a 2018 and newer model.
And my second question is what about the stock advance curve? Is there a way to have a look at it from the stock cdi or the ignitech comes already with a curve that works as a starting point?

So, no, but I have put Ignitech on several bikes. You could start with CR250 kit that curve would be a good starting point. But you would need to set the base advance first.
This isn't that hard, you just have to engage grey matter to what is going on.

I use a degree wheel on the flywheel held on with a nut and bolt to the flywheel shaft. Put in a piston stop and wind the engine up to there. Read the wheel. Wind it the other way and read the wheel. Let's say you get 280 and 320. Take the stop out and move to the middle at 300 (or whatever). There is TDC accurately.

Put some masking tape on the flywheel near a reference point on case or make a pointer that holds close to flywheel. Then wind it back opposite direction to rotation say 15 degrees. Scribe a line with biro on tape.

Right, now program a flat 'curve' at 15 degrees. Start the bike. Your timing light should show this line on the masking tape appear probably before or after this reference point. Use the sw to adjust it to line up. This is now firing at 15 degrees before top dead centre.

Save this number as your base advance for all future curves.
Pull in CR curve, set base advance and that's your starting point.

Most curves should end peak power at 15deg but with a heap more below peak. Listening for any hint of detonation at any throttle position and estimate the revs or ideally squeeze a road tyre on and visit the dyno.

 

[SpirosZ1000]

So, no, but I have put Ignitech on several bikes. You could start with CR250 kit that curve would be a good starting point. But you would need to set the base advance first.
This isn't that hard, you just have to engage grey matter to what is going on.

I use a degree wheel on the flywheel held on with a nut and bolt to the flywheel shaft. Put in a piston stop and wind the engine up to there. Read the wheel. Wind it the other way and read the wheel. Let's say you get 280 and 320. Take the stop out and move to the middle at 300 (or whatever). There is TDC accurately.

Put some masking tape on the flywheel near a reference point on case or make a pointer that holds close to flywheel. Then wind it back opposite direction to rotation say 15 degrees. Scribe a line with biro on tape.

Right, now program a flat 'curve' at 15 degrees. Start the bike. Your timing light should show this line on the masking tape appear probably before or after this reference point. Use the sw to adjust it to line up. This is now firing at 15 degrees before top dead centre.

Save this number as your base advance for all future curves.
Pull in CR curve, set base advance and that's your starting point.

Most curves should end peak power at 15deg but with a heap more below peak. Listening for any hint of detonation at any throttle position and estimate the revs or ideally squeeze a road tyre on and visit the dyno.

Thank you very much for your response. I 'm currently in the process of buying a dyno for the shop so I will probably get the ignitech as well and when I set everything I will start playing around.
The head mod works just fine even with the stock advance curve but I want to see if I can fiddle it more to suits my taste.

 

[(F5)]

Had use of a dyno for years until recently. Frustrating and useful in equal measure. Just don't go crazy with advance. What can be fine under full throttle can knock on part throttle when cruising.

 

[(F5)]

I have some ignitech set up notes I can send you if it comes to that. I've just got the P2 versions before. Race versions don't offer much really. Mind you the P2 have old style serial port so need a USB to serial cable adapter or an old Laptop. I have a garage laptop.

Old DB9 Serial cable is least susceptible to interference.

Which brings me to wiring it up. Keep the wires to coil away from other wires and cdi not right next to plug. Nothing difficult just don't be silly with placement, std situation ok
Do need to run resistor plug and cap.

 

[Demi]

these aren't plug and play? In the big picture, is something like this worth it on newer models?

 

[(F5)]

Maybe they sell plugnplay. These days But mostly others sell kits using DCP2 module. Check carefully as this will scare many but is easy enough if you work through it. But will take wiring and understand what you are doing.

 

[Demi]

Appreciate that reply^^^ it is confusing with some threads during a search. Some say it was ready to go, no problems, just hook and go. No battery power either, etc.

 

[(F5)]

Search their site. I've not been there in a while. They can fit anything, but plugnplay requires some setup that someone has to have done for a bike that isn't a *onda volume bike.

 

[(F5)]

I bought 5 a couple of years back from an on seller in Germany of all places all for a CR250. None of them went near a Cr250. They just came with a wiring diagram and a disc containing a CR ignition curve.

One went one my RZ350/500 , another on a Honda RS125 gp bike and so forth.

 

[Demi]

Guess I will find out, it was implied that it was a plug and play.

 

[motopsycho87]

I've had an ignitech on mine for years now, it most certainly is plug and play. If you message them they will put the correct connectors on. I run a pretty aggressive map that works well and compensates well for the 1.5mm base gasket I've got. I love it.

And yes, run a resistor plug and cap and I've also added an earth from the head to the coil (my main earthing point since powder coating)

 

[motopsycho87]

Images attached