Issue with ac-dc converting.. Please help pic inside
- Thread starter Jimmy
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Brian
New member
You can't have both AC and DC side grounded to the frame.
One or the other should not be grounded to the frame, "floated".
I think I am floating DC. So every ground needs to be run back to the battery negative terminal.
EDIT: Actually, I took a closer look and it does look this is what you have drawn. Sorry!
One or the other should not be grounded to the frame, "floated".
I think I am floating DC. So every ground needs to be run back to the battery negative terminal.
EDIT: Actually, I took a closer look and it does look this is what you have drawn. Sorry!
thumperflipper
New member
this video series is from my conversion on an 07, not sure how the 12 is wired though. Here is part one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WHL3QqLLxE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0WHL3QqLLxE
My issue is that when im running my bike without using my led, its charging around 16-17v!?
But as soon as i turn it on, the V is dropping fast from the battery.
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So i have to open up my stator och do the floating ground thing you talked about?
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There is no value to floating the stator on a standard kickstart bike.
A grounded stator and an isolated rectifier will do what you need. You feed the rectifier with the white wire and ground. The DC output connects only to the battery and your lights.
If the voltage seems a bit high, try using the yellow wire to power your rectifier (leave the white wire disconnected). You should confirm the actual current draw of your LED light. Use an amp meter and a car battery to find out the draw. Assume 2K3 at 70W/14V=5amps at high RPM, so stay below 4amps on your lighting.
A voltage drop under load is normal. As long as you can maintain 13VDC at the battery (under load) you should be OK.
A grounded stator and an isolated rectifier will do what you need. You feed the rectifier with the white wire and ground. The DC output connects only to the battery and your lights.
If the voltage seems a bit high, try using the yellow wire to power your rectifier (leave the white wire disconnected). You should confirm the actual current draw of your LED light. Use an amp meter and a car battery to find out the draw. Assume 2K3 at 70W/14V=5amps at high RPM, so stay below 4amps on your lighting.
A voltage drop under load is normal. As long as you can maintain 13VDC at the battery (under load) you should be OK.
Yea, but a 40w led should not be more then 5amp right? Might be that the lamp is pullibg to much then cause my volt is dropping fast on the battery even on pretty high rpm. I need a new light i assume then... my battery dropping fast dom to 8-9v
When you say feed the r/r with white cabel and ground.. should i take that ground from frame or the - on the battery?
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When you say feed the r/r with white cabel and ground.. should i take that ground from frame or the - on the battery?
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Input to the voltage rectifier is stator white plus frame/chassis ground (or can be stator yellow plus frame/chassis ground at slightly less voltage). Do not ground the battery minus!
If you get a lot of voltage drop, either your lights draw too much current OR you have a bad connection somewhere. A bad connection will reduce current flow but still can measure OK for voltage. A really bad connection will drop voltage. Bad connections can be wires OR ground points. You need to go through everything carefully, even the quality of your switch contacts is important.
Have you checked to make sure the stator connections are not corroded?
If you get a lot of voltage drop, either your lights draw too much current OR you have a bad connection somewhere. A bad connection will reduce current flow but still can measure OK for voltage. A really bad connection will drop voltage. Bad connections can be wires OR ground points. You need to go through everything carefully, even the quality of your switch contacts is important.
Have you checked to make sure the stator connections are not corroded?
I havent looked inside the stator, but all wires from battery is new, the rectifier is brandnew. Ima go thru everything again, remove and clean my earth point for the r/r.
I will even change my switch to if thats a bad one.
Might be my lamp thats to strong, but a orginal 35w halogen.. how many amps is one of thouse taking? You know? Thanks for all the help man.
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I will even change my switch to if thats a bad one.
Might be my lamp thats to strong, but a orginal 35w halogen.. how many amps is one of thouse taking? You know? Thanks for all the help man.
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Leo
New member
"Might be my lamp thats to strong, but a orginal 35w halogen.. how many amps is one of thouse taking? You know? Thanks for all the help man. "
35W in AC is less than 35W in DC because there some loss converting AC to DC and if you are working with half wave rectifier it's worse....
35W in AC is less than 35W in DC because there some loss converting AC to DC and if you are working with half wave rectifier it's worse....
You should have no issues with a 35W halogen bulb. We know that a 2K2 stator puts out 35W and can (just) power a stock headlight bulb. The 2K3 that puts out 70W can easily handle the stock bulb.
You should be able to connect your 35W bulb directly to stator yellow and frame ground and have it work OK directly on AC voltage (bulb doesn't care whether you give it AC or DC). The stock regulator should clip the AC voltage so the bulb doesn't burn out.
One thing to remember is that the white wire is NOT connected to the stock regulator, so don't connect your bulb directly to the white wire and frame ground for testing.
Test your stator as per the workshop manual.
You should be able to connect your 35W bulb directly to stator yellow and frame ground and have it work OK directly on AC voltage (bulb doesn't care whether you give it AC or DC). The stock regulator should clip the AC voltage so the bulb doesn't burn out.
One thing to remember is that the white wire is NOT connected to the stock regulator, so don't connect your bulb directly to the white wire and frame ground for testing.
Test your stator as per the workshop manual.
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Im to novice on this, i think i must leave it to someone that knows more then me. I changed my battery, still doing the same... so the one i have is a half way? How do i know if its a halfway or a full wave one?
Even when i put a 35w halogen lamp on it, it still drain my battery..
and a big not is, i havent done anything to the stator itself. Maybe i should remove the original ac? I still have that connected to the org regulator. But that is only for brakelights..
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Even when i put a 35w halogen lamp on it, it still drain my battery..
and a big not is, i havent done anything to the stator itself. Maybe i should remove the original ac? I still have that connected to the org regulator. But that is only for brakelights..
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You should have no issue with both systems working together. That means:
1) Yellow & ground with AC regulator
2) White & ground with DC rectifier
System 2 could be done with the yellow wire instead of the white wire if the voltage seems high. The only requirement is that the battery must be directly connected to the DC rectifier output.
While a fullwave rectifier is the usual thing to buy as an aftermarket device, a halfwave rectifier will work fine too. The fullwave is a bit more efficient, but the battery will filter/smooth out the ripple from a halfwave.
Your fast voltage drop makes me think you have a bad DC rectifier that is not providing enough current to maintain the load or charge the battery.
1) Yellow & ground with AC regulator
2) White & ground with DC rectifier
System 2 could be done with the yellow wire instead of the white wire if the voltage seems high. The only requirement is that the battery must be directly connected to the DC rectifier output.
While a fullwave rectifier is the usual thing to buy as an aftermarket device, a halfwave rectifier will work fine too. The fullwave is a bit more efficient, but the battery will filter/smooth out the ripple from a halfwave.
Your fast voltage drop makes me think you have a bad DC rectifier that is not providing enough current to maintain the load or charge the battery.
Very strange tho my rectifier is brand new. I will try with a 35w lamp and se if it still drains the battery. Cause as it is now, with only the 40w led.. its draining fast even when im driving and have high rpm.. im sure ive done something wrong here.. but it sounds so easy.
White wire to r/r yellow, other r/r yellow to earth in frame, red and black wire straight to battery.
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White wire to r/r yellow, other r/r yellow to earth in frame, red and black wire straight to battery.
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