Jetting for 2011 xc300

jeffs2200

New member
My new 300 is jetted pretty well for stock. It just seems a little rich on bottom when slow trail riding.

I figured I would drop the needle to lean it out a bit.

When I opened the carb this is what I found.

n1ef 1st clip
40 pilot
175 main

I am about 500 above sea level temps in the 50's.

Since I could not lean out the needle any more I switched to a 38 pilot. I only rode the bike up and down the road but it seems ok so far.

I looked at the spare needle that came with the bike, it is brass colored and I think it says CHN on it. It looks to be quite a bit leaner. I am guessing it would work well for high elevation.

What has anyone else done to the jetting on the new 300's?
 
We need to know what # slide you have....

I think the n1ef is horrible - but note that to get a leaner needle to work well, and it does work much better in my opinion, you need to go up one or two sizes on your pilot jet (e.g. 45 pilot) and reset your air screw and idle screws.

Based on what I know from talking to Les - I would start with something in the range of a keihin ddk needle on #3 or #4 clip position and a 45 pilot/178 main. Assuming you have a #7 or #8 slide. Gofasters stocks these needles or something close to it. You can also order from sudco (u.s. importer for keihin) - but they usually have a required minimum order (this may have changed with the bad economy).

Other options for carb tuning are to send your carb to RB-Designs for his mods - he makes internal modifications to increase the sensitivity of the idle/pilot circuit and dials in the jetting.

Frankly, if it were my bike, the first thing I would do is to measure the squish and have Ron at RB-Designs machine the head to dial in squish and compression for your altitude range and fuel - this is the biggest bang for the buck - better efficiency and bottom end power.

For jetting, I have ridden two 300s back to back - one with Ron's carb mods and my own with an LTR jetting kit - The RB bike pulled more cleanly and reved higher - carb bored to 39mm with divider plate installed on the RB carb.


jeff

p.s. I am a fool to reply to jetting threads - it sometimes turns into a conversation similar to "which chain lube is best" or "which 2 stroke oil is best". Someone can have a jetting combination that works well for them on a given day - but the key is to have a setup that is set up right so that it responds easily and correctly to user adjustments and isn't "finicky". e.g. if you go up in altitude can you adjust via the correction charts in the user manual and be pretty damn close to "spot on" after having a good baseline at close to sea level and 50 degrees, etc. And for minor changes, you can just tweak the air screw a tad and be on your way...
 
The slide is a #7 but it does not have a notch in it. I am pretty sure my KTM has a notched #7.


I have some good needles for the KTM. I wonder if I should give them a try in the GASGAS.

I really like the n3ch, has anyone tried one in a GG300?
 
If your havng a lot of trouble consider trying a #8 slide. The 250s as a rule like a #7 even at sea level and the 300 is a bigger pump. From my experience its hard to jet around a rich slide with leaner needles.
 
jetting 300

I ran into same issues. First I believe u have an air striker 2 carb and u need to let everyone her on the site know because there is a huge difference between the regular air striker and air striker 2 and it seems as though everyone on here is only familiar with the air striker. Therefore u can't jet the 2 carbs the same. I am at 1500 ft and my jetting is the following.
168 main
#7 slide
air screw 1.25 out
Jd jetting needle (blue tip) 2 clip from the top
38 pilot
The needle is for a yamaha yz 250 same carb that's on your gg
 
Is anyone able to tell me the difference from the stock N1EF to a N3CH ? is the N3CH leaner than the N1EF ? If so in what range ? I've been comparing the needles you guys use on the 300 with JD's spreadsheet but the N1EF is not in the database. If anyone knows, I would appreciate your help.

Thank you !
 
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Is anyone able to tell me the difference from the stock E1NF to a N3CH ? is the N3CH leaner than the E1NF ? If so in what range ? I've been comparing the needles you guys use on the 300 with JD's spreadsheet but the E1NF is not in the database. If anyone knows, I would appreciate your help.

Thank you !

Hey Mate.

Stock Needle is N1EF and I couldnt get it to work in the JD Jetting Spreadhseet either. N-O-ZF is the same as N1EF only half a clip leaner. You can use this for comparison.

N3EG is a leaner needle, and N3CG is a half clip a clip leaner than N3EG.

With the last letters from richest to leanest on needle diamater (0 - 1/8th opening) F, G, H, J.

so from Richest to leanest:

N1EF
NOZF
N1EG
N3EG
N3CH

I think thats right. Hope it helps.
 
Thank you Jakobi, and sorry for mixing up the codes :o, I really meant to say "N1EF" and I've updated my original post.
 
No worries Vindicator. Hope you can find one of those needles to suit your purpose.

I'm using the N3EG in my bike, but personally think the N3CH or N3EJ would be the better choice. I'm just too lazy to go and order another needle and start the jetting process all over again. Maybe when winter rolls around ;)
 
jetting

Yeah the N1EF is not good. Go with the JD jetting kit for the yz but ask for a third needle he has that's 1/2 degree leaner than the blue tip 38 pilot 170 main as 3/4 out. If you can't get a Jd kit then go with a KTM N3EH 2ND position
 
I have just purchased a 2011 ec300 e-start , here in South Africa the dealer jets them with a N3EH needle

My settings for 4500ft and temp 80 - 90 fahrenheit

168 main
40 pilot
N3EH # 2
1,5-1.75 airscrew
Plug is a BR9eg
Mixture 40:1 ( maxima super m)

I also have a spare DDK needle but have not tested it yet

We found that the N3eh does not run so well in the 200 , the 200 is better with the DDk needle
clip #2
168 main
42 pilot
2 out airscrew
 
2011 300 ec

My bike is still not finished being put together but I thought I would report on the jetting specs etc. This bike came with the handlebar mounted choke, which I have been told is the original carb intended to be on the bike from GG.

Stock:
N1E #3, 175 main, 42 pj, 6.5 slide.

Current:
n3ew #3 (2.73 mm), 175 main, 40 pj, 6.5 slide.

Looking at the float and thinking the 14-16mm is recommended there does not appear to be anyway this setting will work. 16mm puts the float at the float stops. So I set the float to near parellel (float seam to carb body).

All of this is untested and likely premature to post but I like to stir the pot I guess.

My riding specs are currently: 35-50 F, 3500-4500 ft, desert. When the snow comes off it will be 4500-6500, then 6500-10000 : )
 
Ride Report- the engine on this bike is awesome. I have a moded KTM 300 that flat rips and this engine stock is ever bit as potent WOW. The jetting I chose is super close. I think I could go to a little richer needle and leaner pj. I also think I might need to run a 178-180 main. The plug checks show very little color and my pipe started to yellow. It's not blue but I am definitely getting a little too much heat.

Temps this weekend ran from 45-55 degrees, sand washes, trails, open, gnarly, 3500-4500 feet. The bike does not get good fuel mileage but neither did or does my ktm300 unless I am riding goat trails at 8000-10000 ft. I think the 2 bikes are about the same. Possibly with some head work ??? the mpg will improve.
 
Does anyone have any experience with a #8 slide and a N3EH needle? How bout a #8 slide in general with any other needle? I ride primarily from 2500 - 4500 ft and it can get quite warm here in the summer. Looking to pinpoint some jetting that I can tune with little more than moving the clip on the needle.
 
Does anyone have any experience with a #8 slide and a N3EH needle? How bout a #8 slide in general with any other needle? I ride primarily from 2500 - 4500 ft and it can get quite warm here in the summer. Looking to pinpoint some jetting that I can tune with little more than moving the clip on the needle.

Whats wrong with the slip position?

Pilot Jet?
Air screw?
Different sized needles?
;)
 
Interesting ? about an 8 slide.

I have a N2ZW needle on #2, 175 main, 40 pj in my 300 currently. The bike runs great in Idaho 3000-5000 feet, temps from 40-55. I ran the exact same set up in Texas last Sunday, 3000 feet and 90-99 degrees. The bike still ran great, no spooge, clean, crisp. Weird. All I did was turn my AS out 1 turn.
 
Just got my bike a few weeks ago and have only riden it once. Jetting seemed okay, rideable but definitely a little on the rich side. I've ordered a N3EH needle and will definitely give it a try. A race a local series called the PNWMA and we have races all over BC from sea level to 6500 ft. On my old YZ, all I would do is move clip position around and it would run great. Figured a #8 slide might be the trick to clean the bike up and get a clean burn, with optimum mileage. I rode with widebear last week and he's running a #9 slide (which I think is a little too lean), and a KX needle. Not sure on the main and PJ size.

Based on what I've read in all the forums here, a CCK will run well, and is a good needle on a GG300, but delivers poor mileage. A N3** needle, be it KTM, Kawi or Yam will do much of the same, maybe with slightly better mileage. To me a #8 slide might help out with the mileage while using a N3** or a CCK needle that keeps the bike running clean, possibly in a slightly richer clip position. THoughts?
 
Just got my bike a few weeks ago and have only riden it once. Jetting seemed okay, rideable but definitely a little on the rich side. I've ordered a N3EH needle and will definitely give it a try. A race a local series called the PNWMA and we have races all over BC from sea level to 6500 ft. On my old YZ, all I would do is move clip position around and it would run great. Figured a #8 slide might be the trick to clean the bike up and get a clean burn, with optimum mileage. I rode with widebear last week and he's running a #9 slide (which I think is a little too lean), and a KX needle. Not sure on the main and PJ size.

Based on what I've read in all the forums here, a CCK will run well, and is a good needle on a GG300, but delivers poor mileage. A N3** needle, be it KTM, Kawi or Yam will do much of the same, maybe with slightly better mileage. To me a #8 slide might help out with the mileage while using a N3** or a CCK needle that keeps the bike running clean, possibly in a slightly richer clip position. THoughts?

I think the coins would be better spent getting your head modded and squish band set perfectly than buying a new slide.
 
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