Kickstarter locked up

Anders

Anders

Gold Level Site Supporter
While riding in the snow yesterday night, I had to take a break since I was quite exhausted from batteling the 15cm of wet snow.

I stopped the engine, had a chat with my riding mates, and kicked it over a couple of times. Didn't start.. On the third kick the kickstarter stopped against something hard. The lever moves from the resting position and to the position where it engages. There it is full stop.

As I have a Rekluse clutch, I'm unable to push start it, and had to haul it out with the help of a rope and a strong friend.

Haven't opened it yet, will wash and dismantle during the weekend.
I hope ist is just a displaced spring or some other "simple" cause.

Anyone with experience to share?

The bike has now done 310 hours, and I'm afraid it's beginning to show its age. That don't fit my plan, as I had planned to ride it for at least a couple of more years before buying something else. Hmmm...
 
It certainly sounds like the crank spacer bolts have come out of the crank and jammed against the rod. Pull the stator cover and turn the motor over by hard to confirm.
Which bike?
 
Pictures of your strong friend.


Just asking for my wife. . .


I'm a bad person
 
Gasser Nate said:
It certainly sounds like the crank spacer bolts have come out of the crank and jammed against the rod. Pull the stator cover and turn the motor over by hard to confirm.

Which bike?
Click to expand...
Nate,
I think you nailed it. The crank movies freely, up to a point. There, it is full stop.

Tearing down the motor, then...
I guess I have to split the cases, and also split the crank?

I have planned some winter service. Its time for a new piston, but I didn't plan pulling the engine out of the frame this winter.

I already have my supermono motor on the bench, so it gets a bit crowded in my small workshop.
At least I will not be idle during Christmas holidays...


The bike is my 2015 EC200
Sent fra min YAL-L21 via Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
I wish I wasn?t right... but yeah split the crank to fix. Hopefully the plastic stuffers are ok. They can be a pain to get. Plenty of green loctite on the bolts.
 
The crank stuffer bolts can be replaced without splitting the cases.
Pull the cylinder off and use a short allen wrench. Just make sure you get any loose pieces out.
 
Not all of them. There is one or two under the rod that you can not get to. I do not know about you but I do not half ass jobs on critical engine parts. Best off to split the crank and do it properly.
 
The culprit!

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Only one screw has fallen out, but I don't know the status of the others. So I guess "better safe than sorry" is the way to proceed.
 
Now I have split the cases and the crank is ready for rebuild with a new rod. And of course, a new countersunk M6 bolt

I couldn't get the OEM crank bearings and seals, so I ordered them from a local industrial supply shop (before diamantling the engine). However, when I opened the engine, I found the crank seals to be brown in color. I expect the seals I receive to be black , as are all the other seals in the engine/gearbox.
Does this matter? Are the brown seals of another / better suited material (viton?)

Any insight would be appreciated.

Sent fra min YAL-L21 via Tapatalk
 
Viton are a little more suited, but I have used generic seals with no issues in the past. Bearing shops are usually much cheaper than standard. Just need to make sure you get the right specification regarding the bearings.
 
Gasser Nate said:
Viton are a little more suited, but I have used generic seals with no issues in the past. Bearing shops are usually much cheaper than standard. Just need to make sure you get the right specification regarding the bearings.
Click to expand...

My new bearings are NTN brand, same spec (C3 and C4) as OEM.
I will use the "standard industrial grade" seals. I did also discuss it with the professional mechanic who is doing my crank. His comment was: "If that had been a problem, I would have received a lot of claims. I'm using those all the time".
He also offered a bit of advice: To replace the seal behind the flywheel every second time I replace the piston. In his experience, that seal is usually the the first to start leaking after a few years.

The rebuild got a little delayed, as I fell ill during Christmas.
However, I did deliver the crank on Tuesday and expect it back early next week.
I have everything I need in stock (apart from one gasket) so I hope to have the engine back together in one piece within a week or two.
 
Anders said:
My new bearings are NTN brand, same spec (C3 and C4) as OEM.
I will use the "standard industrial grade" seals. I did also discuss it with the professional mechanic who is doing my crank. His comment was: "If that had been a problem, I would have received a lot of claims. I'm using those all the time".
He also offered a bit of advice: To replace the seal behind the flywheel every second time I replace the piston. In his experience, that seal is usually the the first to start leaking after a few years.

The rebuild got a little delayed, as I fell ill during Christmas.
However, I did deliver the crank on Tuesday and expect it back early next week.
I have everything I need in stock (apart from one gasket) so I hope to have the engine back together in one piece within a week or two.
Click to expand...

You will not have an issue with NTN. Quality stuff!
 
Just to wrap this up:
Things take time. After 7 weeks the bike is back in business (it seems). I started it late Wednesday evening, and rode it 10 minutes in the deep snow yesterday. My original plan was to rebuild it during the christmas vacation, but I fell ill and could't do it. Then, on the new year, I started working again and had no time.


  • When I drained the oil, I found a steel part at the magnet in the drain plug. , I found another one behind the clutch cover. Didn't understand where they came from at fist. When I started mounting the Rekluse clutch, I noticed that the Rekluse tab washer had lost some tabs :eek: Getting a new one also took some days.

  • I had the crank rebuild with a ProX rod kit (Gasgas OEM part) by a pro, then did the rest here at home.
  • I put in a new S3/Vertex piston (after 100 hours on the last one)
  • NTN main bearings.
  • Had a long, hard look at the exhaust valve. It didn't move freely. It opened OK, but was hard to close. Cleaned everything and had to file off a sharp edge in the cylinder casting.

  • Replaced all seals and put it back together.

It was due for a winter service anyway, so I

  • replaced a bushing and a couple of bearings in the swingarm, greased all the linkage bearings and replaced some seals there.
  • greased the steering bearings (and found that the lower needs replacement)
  • had the rear Reiger B46 shock rebuilt at Reiger (Netherlands).
  • Took off the Ohlins S3 steering damper / upper triple clamp for service, put in the OEM triple clamp.
  • Replaced the rear brake pads and chain.
  • rebuilt the choke mechanism in the Lectron carb

Took it riding. :)
 
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