Light switch help

[GGRider01]

Light switch help and other questions

I've got this light switch from MCC in Spain and I'm curious if anyone can tell me which colors are for what function.

http://www.motocrosscenter.com/shop...o-bombilla-halogena-y-no-halogena-193921.html

I've got the halogen version.
I'll likely be replacing the molex connectors. My bike is a 2001 EC 300 which is slowly becoming street legal and nothing really matches, so it's not as simple as matching colors and plugs.

 

[GGRider01]

I'm also wondering what I should need to know to get LED tail lamps powered. I was hoping to avoid adding a battery, but that seems inevitable to get DC current to the tail lamps. Is that the only solution?

 

[Anders]

I'm also wondering what I should need to know to get LED tail lamps powered. I was hoping to avoid adding a battery, but that seems inevitable to get DC current to the tail lamps. Is that the only solution?

Short answer: You do not need a battery.

Long answer: My 2015 does not have a battery, but seems to run light using DC nonetheless. Older bikes do not. I don't know how they are wired, but a lot of GG bikes run a LED tail light without a battery. My guess is that they run the LEDs off AC, which should be OK although you would get light only half the time

I should have known, as I have a 2006 with the transformation kit including LED tail. But I never bothered mounting the tail lamp, it will only get broken anyway. I don't ride on the roads (at least not in the dark).

 

[GGRider01]

So in that case, just get a regulator to keep the voltage down to say... 3.7v or so? I don't know what voltage these LED tail lamps are meant to run at.

The other option seems to be to follow this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qHJFvjwkI4 but doesn't really hold my hand enough for me to feel like I could do it easily.

 

[GGRider01]

Knowing next to nothing about electricity, there's probably a good reason this little device wouldn't work and I'd love to hear it. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/power-supplies/12v-ac-to-dc-converter-module/1725/

I'm also wondering how many things can be hooked up to the voltage regular that is mounted under the front of the gas tank, right behind the steering yoke. Is there a limit? Mostly because I'd need to feed this little device roughly 12v, and as I understand it, the horn and headlight and turn signals will be running off the voltage regulator that is already on the bike.

I'll likely just accept a flashing brake/running light if this is not a realistic solution.

Edit: I would add that I mistook the device by the yoke to be the voltage regulator. Looking at the microfiche it appears to be strictly for the horn. My bike doesn't have part L300031 (the regulator) anywhere that I can see.

 

[JP4]

I have a 2010 bike without a battery and run an LED tail light with no issues.

I'm an electrical tard for what it's worth. With that in mind, from what I understand bikes without a battery output AC current. As such, these bikes will not properly run some accessories like a horn that require DC power, without installing a voltage rectifier/regulator. Ask me how I know. I did source a cheapo rectifier/regulator in order to run a horn, but never got around to trying to wire it up.

 

[GGRider01]

Do you notice low RPM flashing from the LEDs? If not, maybe there is some electrical wizardry going on from the factory.

 

[JP4]

No flashing with my tail light, it works without issue. The bike was wired from the factory to run an LED light, it just didn't come with one. I've used LED bulbs in other tail lights designed for an incandescent bulb without issue previously, so I'm not sure if AC/DC power makes a difference for an LED tail light. Signals with a flasher, that's a different story.

 

[GGRider01]

I ended up getting a battery and regulator/rectifier. I'm following the instructions in the stickied post at the top of this forum. Since I have an abbreviated wiring loom it'll be a bit of trial and error getting things going properly. Unfortunately this is at a stand-still due to the lack of a white wire running from the stator. Frustrating.