Marzocchi 45mm Questions

stay_upright

New member
OK finally started servicing the forks plus I was going to stiffen up the rebound stacks.

So Q1 - I bought replacement dust seals - oil has been weeping past the seals on both fork - should I be replacing the oil seals as well - I didn't realise the dust seals were not the oil seals but I think in the UK it is common only to replace the dust seals when the forks are leaking a bit...

Q2 - Does the standard spring pre-load tube look like the picture in the manual? The reason I ask is mine looks a lot longer - maybe it has been replaced in the past...? Any measurements for what it should be? I'm guessing mine is about 2" long.

Q3 - Are most people running 90mm oil height, I was using 140mm last time - this was tuned to resist bottoming so maybe I need to go with 90mm but run less preload (if mine is in fact more) and/or reduce stiffness in the compression stack..

Anything else I should be looking for/doing while I've got them apart.

One final thing - I've made a Word document from the PDF manual cutting out all non-english bits and rubbish - the idea being I only need to print 21 pages not 118 would the admin be interested in putting this in the manuals section along with the original manual?
 
Hi - just been reading that post and another related to Pobit.

I've found a mention of 5mm preload on the fork springs no mention of how long the pre-load tube is as stock.

As for seperating the upper/lower fork tubes the manual says just pull hard - any comments - how hard should I be pulling? Can i damage anything?

It looks like the lower bushing is contacting the upper bushing when trying to seperate the tubes - is that right? Do you just end up pulling the lower bushing out?
 
I only had my buddy's 45mms apart once about a year ago (I have 50mm on my MC) and I can't remember if the spring preloads when you screw the cap to the inner assembly or when you put the cap into the tube :confused: but either way you should be able to measure the preload as you assemble it no? I'm sure someone more familiar with the 45s will chime in.

Make sure you have the keeper ring out of the oil seal before you pull hard. :D

I just kinda use the bottom tube like a slide hammer and carefully tap out the oil seal. Yes the top bushing hits the bottom and both bushings come out. It's pretty clearly depicted on page 68 and 70 of the Shiver manual.
 
Still trying to get the tubes apart - damn they are tight. In the manual it just says 'pull' :cool:

I don't want to hammer them in case I damage something...
 
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