Maxxis IT Tires?

Boomhauer

New member
Okay who uses them or who has used them and what were the results? Or even the new SI tire? I ride in everything from roots & rocks to hard pack and powder sand.

I am not very happy with my S-12 front and was thnking of trying something different all around.
 
I like the IT on the back, it lasts forever and with the stiff sidewall you can run pretty low pressures 8-10psi without flats. The IT is not the greatest when it is sloppy but lowering the pressure helps. The IT front is bad but the SI is great.
 
I just put an IT on the rear of mine, but have yet to get in a ride. Some guys up here in New England swear by them.
 
I just ordered a set of the SI's. I have read numerous write up's and they have had pretty good reviews. So we will see in a few weeks.

I will give a full report once I put some miles on them.:cool:
 
OK here's different, have you heard of Mitas? ex Barum, I hadn't but someone suggested Mitas C10 Rear, - been running Metz MC4s which were ok. Pretty wet recently so a lot of mud. This is the best Mud tire I've ridden with. Friend said the old Barrums gripped well as natural rubber but wore out quick. Well this one last & lasts. Sharpened it once but many rides down.

Oh & when I finally found some info on the web it turns out it is their intermediate to Hard terrain tire! Seemed pretty good on all surfaces. Will try front next.
 
I was looking for more in the way on how he cut them. What tools/knife etc etc. a little bit on the technique employed. How easy/difficult/dangerous it might be. I've often wondered about cutting the knobs square again but didn't fancy going at it with a utility knife. I don't think I'd have the patience for that!!
 
Ok now you have to promise not to hold me accountable if you are a klutz & hurt yourself.

Here’s the drill:

Approach the bike from behind, kneel down upright, reach out.

In your hand you have a skill-saw.

One end is sharp & spinning. Do not interface with soft fluid filled parts.

Use one of those spring sash clamps to hold the safety guard out of the way, this immediately sounds unsafe, but means you can use two hands on the handles.

Rub the blade on the rounded leading edge of the knobblies. You just need to cut a couple of mm away, but you aren’t cutting down, you are using it like a grinder. As long as middle row have sharp edges. Stop, wait till spinning stops & rotate the tire, continue.

Do in well light & ventilated place, throws rubber shards. Wear hearing & eye protection.

Think about what happens if you slip, which is why I suggest to kneel upright & why I don’t put the bike on a stand. Take breaks if arms get sore as you are reaching out.
 
:eek:

Yikes!! Definitely not osha approved!!! But i just might be silly enough to give it a try. When you say skilsaw you are talking about an actual worm drive model 77 right?? Btw what kind of blade do you use?? Standard carbide tipped blade you would use for cutting framing lumber??
 
ahh its easy to do, but you never know who's reading this.

Sorry 'Skil' is a brand we get over this side of the world, or used to, like 'doing the Hoovering' for vacuuming. They are called 'Lack of Skillsaw' by the local Accident & Emergency depts. Not sure what a 77 is, our worms can't drive over here, -at least without a note from their doctor.

Circular-saw, so yes just the hoady wood blade works a treat.
 
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