Danj56
Bronze Level Site Supporter
I think you should fabricate steering stops for those of us that are fabricating dumbies
My KYB SSS fork conversion / 2000 EC250
- Thread starter nknudsen
- Start date
Anders
Gold Level Site Supporter
Instead of starting a new thread on the same topic, I add my comments here:
Yesterday, I rode my '06 EC200 for the first time with the KYB fork.
I haven't really completed it yet, but I just had to test it
There is a race this Saturday, so I had to start breaking it in.
The fork legs are unused, off a 2008 YZ250F. The triple clamps are secondhand off a 2010 YZ250F. Hence, all my settings are stock Yamaha.
I use my GG front wheel with the Yamaha axle and custom made spacers (using the OE 25mm id bearings). The brakes are the Nissin/GG caliper on Yamaha bracket with a 250mm custom made rotor for the GG hub. I ended up with the wheel pretty close to being centered between the fork legs. For a front fender, I just drilled some new front holes in a yellow GG fender I had laying around. The rear fender holes line up nicely with the Yamaha triple clamp.
I have not gotten around to making a steering stop yet.
The only trouble I have found is the mounting of the Scotts damper. I used to have it below the handlebars on the OE triple clamps, using my own 10mm alu plate between the upper triple clamp and the handlebar clamps.
However, when using the Yamaha triple clamps, I would have to raise the handlebar close to 20mm more to get the damper under the bars.
Does anyone else use the Scotts damper with the KYB forks? If so, what type of mount do you use?
Of course, I can make (or even buy) parts to mount it above the bars, but I'd rather have it below to avoid the high tower.
As for the riding experience, the first mpression is that this fork rides quite a bit higher than the OE 45mm Shivers, and that it feels somewhat firmer.
I kind of expected this, but the spring rates are almost the same, at .44 in the KYB (according to the Racetech site) and 0.45 in the Shivers.
I think I feel safer at speed with this fork, I could perhaps use the worn out phrase that it "increases rider confidence".
I presume I will reduce the oil level to 300cc quite soon go get it a tad plusher, but first I have to break it in properly.
I'm off to a MX practice tomorrow, so I guess I will get a good impression of it under MX conditions then.
I mounted the legs flush with the upper triple clamps, perhaps I should drop the triples a few mm?
As for the valving, I cannot really say yet. It's not bad, but I would like it a bit plusher. We'll just have to wait until its properly broken in, and I get some more hours on it.
Yesterday, I rode my '06 EC200 for the first time with the KYB fork.
I haven't really completed it yet, but I just had to test it
There is a race this Saturday, so I had to start breaking it in.
The fork legs are unused, off a 2008 YZ250F. The triple clamps are secondhand off a 2010 YZ250F. Hence, all my settings are stock Yamaha.
I use my GG front wheel with the Yamaha axle and custom made spacers (using the OE 25mm id bearings). The brakes are the Nissin/GG caliper on Yamaha bracket with a 250mm custom made rotor for the GG hub. I ended up with the wheel pretty close to being centered between the fork legs. For a front fender, I just drilled some new front holes in a yellow GG fender I had laying around. The rear fender holes line up nicely with the Yamaha triple clamp.
I have not gotten around to making a steering stop yet.
The only trouble I have found is the mounting of the Scotts damper. I used to have it below the handlebars on the OE triple clamps, using my own 10mm alu plate between the upper triple clamp and the handlebar clamps.
However, when using the Yamaha triple clamps, I would have to raise the handlebar close to 20mm more to get the damper under the bars.
Does anyone else use the Scotts damper with the KYB forks? If so, what type of mount do you use?
Of course, I can make (or even buy) parts to mount it above the bars, but I'd rather have it below to avoid the high tower.
As for the riding experience, the first mpression is that this fork rides quite a bit higher than the OE 45mm Shivers, and that it feels somewhat firmer.
I kind of expected this, but the spring rates are almost the same, at .44 in the KYB (according to the Racetech site) and 0.45 in the Shivers.
I think I feel safer at speed with this fork, I could perhaps use the worn out phrase that it "increases rider confidence".
I presume I will reduce the oil level to 300cc quite soon go get it a tad plusher, but first I have to break it in properly.
I'm off to a MX practice tomorrow, so I guess I will get a good impression of it under MX conditions then.
I mounted the legs flush with the upper triple clamps, perhaps I should drop the triples a few mm?
As for the valving, I cannot really say yet. It's not bad, but I would like it a bit plusher. We'll just have to wait until its properly broken in, and I get some more hours on it.
I ended up with the Gas Gas handle bar mounts, with the damper above the bars. I had to use some dowels on the GG bolts to make up the difference in bolt size.
I went with 310cc on the forks. Very plush now.
Google "Smartperformance fork bleed" on how to bleed the cartridge.
I went with 310cc on the forks. Very plush now.
Google "Smartperformance fork bleed" on how to bleed the cartridge.
GMP
Active member
Same rate springs in OC vs. CC fork will always feel stiffer in a CC fork, mostly because you have the additive rate of the ICS spring, but also because damping is much more consistant (no airated oil or cavitation). Seriously, IMO I think a stock 4.2Nm spring in a Zoke 48 PFP fork feels significanty stiffer than 4.4Nm in an OC 45mm Zoke Shiver, probably closer to a 4.6Nm.
GMP
Active member
Noah,
There are two things at play here: Rate and preload. The Marzocchi has a lot more (7mm minimum) ICS preload than the KYB, in fact the KYB has zero. What this means is that if you compare three forks, a 45 Zoke OC, 48 Zoke CC, and a KYB SSS CC, all with the same main spring rate and preload, the 48 zoke will feel stiffest initially like it has more preload because it does overall. The KYB next, as once the ICS spring starts to move its additive to the spring rate, and finally the 45 OC fork because there is no ICS spring.
Add far better damping control and you get nice firm yet controlled feel a CC fork delivers. I would not automatically buy softer springs than you woud run with an OC fork for a KYB, but I would experiment with preload and valve it correctly. I do think the 48 Zoke works better on the trail with less main spring preload, as it has a lot of makeup potential with PFP anyway. It also has a lot to do with the bike they are on.
This is all JMO from what I have observed from two GGs and a couple KYB forks I've ridden.
There are two things at play here: Rate and preload. The Marzocchi has a lot more (7mm minimum) ICS preload than the KYB, in fact the KYB has zero. What this means is that if you compare three forks, a 45 Zoke OC, 48 Zoke CC, and a KYB SSS CC, all with the same main spring rate and preload, the 48 zoke will feel stiffest initially like it has more preload because it does overall. The KYB next, as once the ICS spring starts to move its additive to the spring rate, and finally the 45 OC fork because there is no ICS spring.
Add far better damping control and you get nice firm yet controlled feel a CC fork delivers. I would not automatically buy softer springs than you woud run with an OC fork for a KYB, but I would experiment with preload and valve it correctly. I do think the 48 Zoke works better on the trail with less main spring preload, as it has a lot of makeup potential with PFP anyway. It also has a lot to do with the bike they are on.
This is all JMO from what I have observed from two GGs and a couple KYB forks I've ridden.
nknudsen
Member
I ended up modifying my 2000 silencer after test fitting a 07-11 silencer. The newer silencer pointed outward when slid on the pipe and my OE one pointed up too much and hit the black r. fender support at the outlet. I ended up cutting my stinger pipe off at the silencer and slip fit. I detailed (cut & sanded) & rotated the cut pipe to get the angle I needed to mount the silencer up to the new subframe. Then finished with tig welding it back together. I also used my stock FMF pipe. It looks, fits and works great. Some people have had better luck with certain pipe/silencers fitting. I didn't and didn't want to buy any more trial and error parts so I made work what I had and I'm very happy with it.
Attachments
nknudsen
Member
No distortion on mine, the stop has worked very well. It probably could be made smaller with less weld.
