need help deciding

mountain thumper

New member
i am stuck with a dilemma..
i have a couple hundred extra bux to put into my girl
its mostly stock, jetted, reeds, and lights are all i have done to it.
i came off an xr, and at times, wish i was still riding one.i hold on too tight, so sometimes when i stand up, come off a jump high in the front or hit a whooptie just right, i pin the throttle= very bad things..
thats why i went to a 4t in the first place. but then i rode an 03 with a lot of goodies, and i wanted that top end so i went back to 2t. want to make it as torquey as possible..
anywho i have questions about upgrade effects.
flywheel weights: how much does this affect the front end, i like to pull it up over washouts and small trees :) does it just slow it way down..
zstart: same here, can you still wheelie? when your clutch goes, do yo have to buy another zclutch, or just a clutch.
g2 throttle cam system: ive read a lot of good and some bad about these. i see how it would benifit my tendency to twist the throttle at the wrong time, and take a little bit of the hit off the bottom. but would it make the response dog out, i hate backing down hills
im looking at buying a couple things. im tossed between pv cover, gnarly pipe, ltr performance kit(with doma) g2 throttle or a hyde skid/pipe combo. btw anyone buy one of these for an 07 300? how long was the wait?
im tossed about ltr jets too. my bike was supposed to be jetted by the dealer(got it used), and included a lot of jets. but all of them, including the ones in the bike were the same sizes... what kind of difference is it, from stock to the ltr? the pic only shows one of each jet and a needle, dont you need several jets to adjust for elevation?
also my slide is a number 8, whats the difference? and how do i adjust the needle. mine has a bolt head on top of it, and i dont understand how to remove the needle to adjust the oring..
helpless n00b i know..
 
I just picked up a flywheel for my 250, I'll let you know how it feels. I've also been running the z-start this year. It wheelies easily. 10 tungsten is the way to go though, just do it from the start. I have the hyde skid only on my 250. Also run fastway handguards, been very happy with them so far.

To adjust your needle, pull up the spring and the plastic retainer and push down and over to let the cable go. The you'll need a, 6mm I think to remove the lil fastener on top the needle. Be careful not to tighten it back down to much, they are tough to get back out again.
 
thats what i needed. i loosened that night thinking it has to come off, but it was pinching the cable. now i know why..
what do you mean by 10 tungsten(weight/material?)
wolf-ram lmao
 
thats what i needed. i loosened that night thinking it has to come off, but it was pinching the cable. now i know why..
what do you mean by 10 tungsten(weight/material?)
wolf-ram lmao

He meant:
If you run the Rekluse on your Gasser, set it up with ten tungsten balls and 20 steel balls.

From me:
Order it that way to start with. Tell them Jim Cook recommended it to you.

The key to the LTR jetting kit is Les's jet needle. To get the most from your engine, you will still need a small assortment of jets to fine tune your carb for how YOU want your engine to run, and to make adjustments for weather and elevation changes. With your leaner (than I'm used to) 8 mm cut-out slide, it will affect which jets you will use.
A lot of tuners will modify a #7 to a 7.5, so I think the #8 would be interesting to check out.

You might like the 14 oz flywheel weight better than the 10 oz. I have the 10 oz on mine, and it is still very snappy. If you don't like the 14 oz weight, they only take about five minutes to change.

With the 300, it is a fine balance between getting on the gas, and breaking traction. :D

Good Riding!

Jim
 
He he. With Jim around that's like idly mentioning to an insurance salesman you were thinking about upgrading your insurance.

How ya doing Jim?
 
I got the heaviest (14oz) stealy FWW for my 300 and noticed an improvement in being able to change gear up hills and keeping traction. It just seems smoother. The response seems as fast - and wheelying off the throttle seems the same.

A lot of people like the powervalve cover (LTR) for extra torque.

An auto clutch seems like something you've got to try and you will either like it or you wont...
 
Oh yeah I got hold of the slide used for emissions / original shipping a #9 I think and the bottom end was cleaned up lovely and I still use a small pilot 35 or 38? makes my bike nice and linear v.nice (for me)
 
The 300 has a lot of power right off the bottom that can be an issue sometimes. A 14 oz weight and G2 ergo throttle will make a nice difference. My 250 still wheelies at will with this combo no problem. The LTR PV cover gives a little more low end but does a 300 really need more? Try the LTR needle and the CCK needle that a lot of guys have had excellent results on the 300 with. I don't run an auto clutch. If you have the OEM '07 pipe leave it on. Its a nice heavy wall pipe with smooth power delivery. I don't think you can get a Doma in the US anymore anyway. I really like the Hyde combo overall, and its molded to fit the '07 with the OEM pipe. Is your map select switch working correctly? Try the above and if its still too much you can try and retard the static timing slightly.
 
I came off of an xr250 onto my de 300.

At first, the 300 was scary fast. I am not the greatest rider, and the change from the xr to the GG was huge. The bike came with a flywheel weight, but it was not installed. All i did was put the G2 throttle on using the mildest cam, and it mellowed the bike right up. I didn't go with the flywheel weight; it seems to mush up the throttle response. With the G2, when you want to go, just jab the throttle, and the thrust is still there.

The G2 throttle is probably one of the most well engineered accessories I've ever used. it's a piece of art that works great.

good luck.
 
i talked to my local dealer today, he was all about dissing the ltr needle, but praised the pv cover, and spoke well of the tcs throttle too.
i take what he says with a grain of salt though, , he did charge the previouse owner of my bike for a performance jetting, when all he did was put the same jets back in, and sold him a bag of the same jets( 5 sets of the same 2 jets)
stay_upright
i cant really see spending 400 dollars to try the rekluse out only to find i didnt like it(i guess i could love it..)if anyyone near montana has a bike with one installed, get ahold of me so i can ride it!
gmp
i cant really tell if the switch is working, it seems to run much better in the cold, on rain, but it was 75 last weekend and i switched it to sun and it hauled like never berfore. i think the ambient temp has a lot to do with that, it was running super rich around 30-40'F with a little smoke till it was good and warm. at 75'F it only smoked for a couple of dozen revolutions.
i know ive been running it rich on oil too(got a little measure now) around 35-40:1 that probably didnt help either.
 
thats what i needed. i loosened that night thinking it has to come off, but it was pinching the cable. now i know why..
what do you mean by 10 tungsten(weight/material?)
wolf-ram lmao
fyi this was an inside joke from highschool. the periodic tables name for tungsten is wolfram. we used to dram wolves with ram horns instead of the correct answers on our tests.
makes me laugh every time i hear tungsten
 
i decided where to start. i ordered a g2 throttle, and a 14 oz fww from go fasters a moment ago. i figure these to be the best start for making my 2t more like a 4t
next is definately the power valve.
 
I'm on the west side of ND about 70 miles from the MT border, if your ever gonna be over let me know. My 07 250 has a rekluse and my buddy is on a 06 crf250 with an pro model and some sweet suspension.
 
Don't forget about the gearing. You can tame the 300 on the bottom a little at a time by dropping a tooth on the rear sprocket. Drop the Pop as I say. Steel sprockets are cheap and you can switch to a high dollar sprocket once you decide if you like the gearing and keep the steely as a spare. I just run the cheap steel. It can be bent back into shape on the trail where Aluminum breaks.
 
i was wondering about sprocket teeth too
i had a 13/52 on my xr350 it wound up quick and had great tractability. but it slipped in the higher gears if i didnt have enough speed..
if i loose a tooth wont that make my clutch wear out faster( kinda like running a couple gears too high)
 
Back
Top