Needle question?

[JoshP]

I currently have a N1ED needle with a #7 slide and I'm trying to find out what the next leaner needle would be from here. I have asked the local GasGas dealer but I'm getting the old "I have no idea it's been too long" answer from them. I thought they were supposed to be Off Road Experts???? I guess I should have just asked here first, it was my mistake. Thanks in Advance. -Josh

 

[Eric K]

The N1Ex series is a triple taper needle that can be difficult to get dialed in. If you really want to mess with triple taper needles, I suggest that get the JD Jetting guide (Excel spreadsheet) so you can graphically compare various versions of triple taper needles before you start buying needles. You can also compare straight taper needles.

An easier way to go is buy the LTR jet kit, which has worked well for my trail and woods riding.

 

[JoshP]

Erik,

Thanks for the input on this topic. I was considering the LTR kit but I have everything minus the needle is a good state right now so it seems a waste to get the whole kit, when a needle is an inexpensive item. Although as I do more research on this it seems as though answers are near impossible to find. So the bullet might just to be bitten.
Thanks again - Josh

 

[Dave]

Rich to lean - N1ED, N1EE, N1EF, N1EG
From my measurements these needles differ only in the base diameter. After the "L1" dimension they appear to be the same.

 

[JoshP]

Dave,
Thanks for the information buddy.

 

[motorhead]

You might try to contact carb parts warehouse,they used to have an ad in the back of cycle news and were very helpfull for me in the past on another bike w/keihin carb.

 

[clw]

If it's easier, the N1E? needle series are Suzuki parts, just ask the counter guy to look up the optional needles for a 2000 RM250. You are using the right slide, so you should be able good once you get the correct diameter.

 

[mattmax]

needle reading

When i had a KTM 300xcw, I tried to decipher the code.

The best i could come up with is what Dave said. The last digit is the base diameter and is coded by how many two digit decimals after 2 mm. For Keihin codes I believe a straight taper ending in G would be 2.69mm base diam, and K would be 2.70, but these letters aren't always the same value as Keihin with manufacturer translations, but the idea is the same.

This is good to know with keihin because the seat(called needle jet as opposed to jet needle) is not replaceable like a Mikuni, so when the seat wears, you can go up a diameter. With a three taper needle, I don't think I'd start messing with tapers.

The needle hole can even be off slightly from the factory, making it difficult to properly tune the pilot jet. I shoot for a pilot that tunes between one and two turns on the airscrew. If my carb needs a pilot drastically different then stock, I'll try to get closer to stock tuning with needle diameter. If my pilot is tuning much richer than stock, I'll reduce needle diam, allowing me to lean out the pilot, and vice versa. Of coarse, then you'll have to adjust the clip position and make sure the main is still working for you.

 

[CACTUSREID]

mattmax, you have imparted some very valuble knowledge here! the fact that the jet needle(orfice that the needle drops into) will and does wear,means that we all have to tune our engines/carbs to what they like/will run on,as opposed to a cookie cutter jetting kit. yes the kits are helpful,but they aren't the answer to every bikes jetting needs!!