Playing with jetting - EC300

[widebear]

$15 is a great deal for a slide cut from RB Designs (plus shipping 2 ways of course) but once it's cut there is no going back. Personally I would pony up the money and just buy a #8 slide (or #9 even...jeeez widebear) from JD Jetting as he has a very good price for the slides. It's nice to have a bunch of different slides to tinker with and they can make a big difference in low speed performance.

Want to complicate it even more....there are slides with a little notch in them and slides without and that notch can also make a difference

Widebear...does your #9 slide have the notch in it?

Stocker has a notch, my old # 9 that has replaced it also has a notch. From what I can deduce notched slides may help in getting better idle rpm settings. What do you think there Skidaddy?

 

[Bailey28]

I noticed that the needle jet shield/shroud (right above the brass needle jet orfice) is pretty tall on the PWK. Maybe the notch is there to aid like you said, the idle mix?

After Ron cut my KDX slide to a 7, I noticed that part of his mod was to cut about 1/8" off the height of the jet shield/shroud. If you cut only the shroud down would you need a longer L1 to compensate for the needle going rich too soon?

Two needles that I may order and experiment with: Yamaha N3EW and the Kawasaki N3YF.

 

[GMP]

Baily I think your all over the map with these B to E taper needles, too many changes. When you get the spreadsheet you will see what I mean. Taper is used to balance across the needle's range of influence. There should be no need to deviate from a C taper in a 300 if your working with Keihin needles. D in a 250 works well.

 

[Bailey28]

I can't wait to get the spreadsheet. I kind of surmised that I was getting something I didn't want with the E taper. It was really lean on the bottom and into the mid, but after that it was super rich and wouldn't rev out.

I'm thinking the E taper itself at 2*00' was too steep. I agree the C is more along the lines of what I am looking for, you guys already found it, but I was going a bit out of the box to tinker.

The C tapers I have are CGN, CCK, CCL, CGL, and CEL. I'll throw all of those into the JD program along with the 38, 40 and 42 pilot jets.

 

[Bailey28]

Got to the track today, had a CCK-3 40 pilot, 175 main and the bike ran good. Track was sandy and the air temp was about 70*F.

Later in the day the bike started bogging really bad when I went past 1/2 throtte. I got back to the pits and found that the main jet unscrewed itself and was laying in the float bowl.


I replaced the jet with a 170 main and went back out. The bike hauled ass!! Strong from the very bottom, and pulled my arms out in the midrange. Top end was scary, and it was hard to hold on.

I will keep this combo for a while, it works very well. The plug was mocha/medium brown with no white on it.

I also got my copy of JD's spreadsheet. In comparison to the N1EF needle on clip 1 to the CCK on clip 3, the two start out roughly the same. From there the CCK dips to 10% less fuel until 1/4 throttle, then goes to 10% richer on average until about 5/8ths throttle. After that it tapers slowly to less than 8% at full throttle.

This CCK profile is the opposite of the stock needle. As some of you guys were saying in other posts, the N1EF is too rich off idle, too lean in the mid, and too rich again in the upper revs.

CCK-3
40 pilot
170 main
1 3/4 out on air screw
40:1 premix
BR8EG

I'm happy.

 

[TNT Cycle]

Marshall's and Parts Unlimited sell the slides for PWK's also I think Like $45 retail from Marshall's and $60 from parts. I've sold a few for KTM guys chasing sticking throttles. I think Marshall's has #6 and #7's and parts goes to#8. More options...

Cheers,

Rick