preferred vent hose routing.

A

asshat

New member
Anyone out there tell me the preferred crankcase, p.v. and carb vent hose routing? New to me 2002 xc250 with 15 hrs on it.(leftover bought in 06) Getting water in trans after my first ride. Could be water pump seals, but I am going to try obvious first. It was a VERY VERY wet ride, water to mid thigh, can't believe this thing walked through it. My guess is power valve hose, but could be others
One of the best enduro bikes I have ever ridden, hands down.
Any help out there?
Thanks
 
Power valve hose should be down and it should let water in the trans. Your vent hose should be routed up and over the top right side rad bolt along the frame in a candy cane shape. I run my carb vents up into the airbox but I loop my carb drain hose up and through the old vent clip on the float bowl.
 
Sorry I meant the trans vents on the right side.

The trans vents through the PV rod passage on the right side of the cylinder and the side cover. On the left side there's always positive pressure in the PV cover chamber so it can hang low and drain.
 
nhrider said:
Sorry I meant the trans vents on the right side.

The trans vents through the PV rod passage on the right side of the cylinder and the side cover. On the left side there's always positive pressure in the PV cover chamber so it can hang low and drain.
Click to expand...

More better :D
 
Split the carb vents buy cutting the shrink tubing and run one from each side down along with the overflow, the other pair up. I use the small inline filters and occasionally blow them out with contact cleaner. If you run the two carb vents into the airbox, position them so that fuel will not saturate your filter and wash oil and dirt through if your bike sits on its side after a fall.

I run the PV/trans vent to the gas cap frame nipple, and use a shorty gas cap vent. This is a clean solution and the best protection against water ingress.

Remove the ball bearing check valve from the gas cap if you are running a check valve/vent on the shorty hose. Enlarge the pin holes in the rubber seal boot. I had a funny stalling issue at an enduro last year. I went through the bike, found nothing obvious but changed the gas cap anyway as I had a spare. At the next enduro I spoke to a guy who worked with Fred Hoess and was advised that Fred had this happen as well. I never had this happen before on any GG but I suppose its possible so I modified my cap and have never had a problem since. The original cap's seal boot looked odd like it was swollen, which is why I ordere the spare. Perhaps the small holes were obstructed.
 
I have always run a mix of pump and race gas in my GGs. Since I got the '07, I've been runing more pump gas except when its cold and the winter blend suff is out. Perhaps the ethanol in the pump gas and less race gas to dilute it had something to do with it, but the second gas cap has been fine.
 
hmmm I started ot with pump gas. then went to a race gas mix as I needed to have race gas to run my trials bike and there was no way I would burn through 5 gallons of race gas in my beta so I started using it in the gasser. first cap was probably all pump gas current cap is 50/50 mix. At the moment I'm running straight pump gas ... I'll have to keep an eye on that rubber seal thing.
 
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GMP said:
Remove the ball bearing check valve from the gas cap if you are running a check valve/vent on the shorty hose. Enlarge the pin holes in the rubber seal boot. I had a funny stalling issue at an enduro last year. I went through the bike, found nothing obvious but changed the gas cap anyway as I had a spare. At the next enduro I spoke to a guy who worked with Fred Hoess and was advised that Fred had this happen as well. I never had this happen before on any GG but I suppose its possible so I modified my cap and have never had a problem since. The original cap's seal boot looked odd like it was swollen, which is why I ordere the spare. Perhaps the small holes were obstructed.
Click to expand...

I recently experienced some trouble on long steep climbs as well. There were maybe 6 of these climbs on the route and the first few went good. I started to notice the problem on maybe climb #4 and by the last one, at the steepest part, no amount of clutch work would give me low end. It would rev high though and I managed to loop the bike out on 1st and 2nd try. Made it out on try #3 by hitting it with more speed, but still almost stalled when i downshifted at the top.

I was wondering about the mentioned "pin holes in the rubber seal boot"? The cap on my 13' 300 just has a vent hole in the top and rubber sealing gasket thats in good shape..

I'm going to look at the petcock screen today as well and check fuel flow. There is an inline ball valve in the gas cap vent line that goes into the steering tube.

Last climb starts at 8:20

https://youtu.be/7AelIZeHidk
 
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